The Handmade Quilt. Carolyn Forster
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Thimbles
Thimbles are often the most controversial subject of sewing. I didn’t always use a thimble; I braved sore fingers and chipped nails until I had had enough! I went through finger protectors, tape, wraps, and leather sheaths. By experimenting, it got me used to stitching with something on the end of my fingers.
They all worked but I eventually realized I could sew with a ridged, flat top thimble on my index finger underneath my work and one a dimpled metal thimble on my middle finger on top of my work. This works best for me but once again, trial and error may be the best path when determining your favorite thimble and how to use it.
Fabric Markers
Mechanical fabric pencils with a fine tip will always give a clear, fine line. And mechanical pencils don’t need sharpening! They will often come in colors which makes it easier to see on fabric. A standard pencil with hard lead will always work, too.
Fabric Choice and Quantities
For the quilt in this book, I chose to use navy and creams for the blocks and binding. Your color choice can be whatever you want but take the time to decide what kind of fabric will work well for hand stitching.
I find it easier to stitch with 100 percent cotton fabrics that are dress or craft weight. I like to prewash all of my fabric to minimize color bleed and shrinkage. While it isn’t necessary only you can decide what is best for you and your quilt.
To add some body to lighter weight fabrics, try spritzing with a spray starch product. Besides adding body, it will stabilize the fabric when you are tracing on it but still stay easy to stitch.
I used a scrappy combination of fabrics for the quilt in the book. I suggest you start off with four or five fat quarters that you like together. I would allow one fat quarter (18" x 22") for each block. Some may use all of it and some less. As you make your way through the blocks you can use up the scraps or introduce more fabrics as you work.
See here for complete fabric requirements for the quilt.
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