Plant Combinations for an Abundant Garden. A. & G. Bridgewater
• Acid soils: these are soils with a pH below about 6.5. Acidity can be corrected by dusting the surface with hydrated lime or ground limestone in winter, after digging. However, some plants – such as Rhododendrons and Azaleas – demand acid soils.
• Alkaline (chalky) soils: these have a pH above 7.0. Chalky soils can be corrected by used acidic fertilizers such as sulphate of ammonia, plus applications of peat. Many plants grow well in chalky soils.
• Neutral soils: these are soils with a pH of 7.0, although most plants grow well in a pH between 6.5 and 7.0.
Shady or sunny?
A garden’s aspect is not usually the first consideration when moving to a new house. Whether it is fully exposed to sunlight or shaded by trees or neighboring buildings can be a lottery that brings both problems and opportunities. There are plants that delight in full sun, while others prefer to grow in shade. The light or shade preferences of many plants are detailed in the plant directory (see here–here).
The degree and nature of light and shade in a garden varies from one part of a day to another.
• Full sun: many plants thrive in full sun, especially if regularly watered. Those native to hot countries and with hot-climate adaptations such as silvery, hairy or aromatic leaves are first choices, but even these need help when getting established. Regular watering and yearly mulching are two moisture-saving tasks.
• Light shade: most plants thrive in a combination of dappled light and full sun. Unless there is a large, overhead canopy of leaves from a tree (which also deprives other plants of moisture and nutrients) the brightest time is during the middle part of a day.
• Heavy shade: most decorative garden plants do not grow well or exhibit attractive qualities when in deep shade.
Unless the shade comes from a building, thin out an overhead canopy created by trees.
Exposed and windswept sites
Newly planted as well as established plants are often damaged by cold, searing winds. Hedges filter the wind and can be used to make gardens more congenial for tender plants. Walls create barriers and encourage swirling eddies on the lee side, as well as buffeting on the windward face.
Coastal gardens
Salt-laden wind is present along coastal strips as well as a few miles or kilometers inland. Some plants tolerate these conditions, while others have their leaves damaged. Coastal plants for forming attractive hedges in warm areas include Fuchsia magellanica (Hardy Fuchsia) and Tamarix ramosissima (Tamarisk; also known as Tamarix pentandra).
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
Although you can borrow tools and use found, salvaged and gifted materials, such as old bricks and left-over sand, you will inevitably have to buy some new tools and things like cement and wood. Tools and materials come from DIY outlets, builder’s merchants and local suppliers. You can find savings in time and energy if you buy the best tools for the task, and in money if you purchase the materials in bulk from local suppliers.
What will I need to buy?
TOOLS
MEASURING AND MARKING
You need a basic kit for measuring, marking, checking levels and setting out the site. Spray paint or chalk can be used for marking out straight and curved lines (not illustrated).
PREPARING THE SITE
These tools will enable you to dig, move and level earth. You can rent a power tamper for preparing large patio foundations (not illustrated).
BRICK AND STONE
This toolkit will allow you to break, chop and cut both stone and brick. You may want to rent an angle grinder or a cement mixer for big projects.
Safety
Always follow the manufacturer’s instructions. Always protect your eyes, ears and hands when using power tools. Wear a dust mask when using cement powder. Wet cement is corrosive. Always keep children out of harm’s way.
TOOLS
WOOD
If your designs include fences, gates, pergolas, sheds or decking you are likely to need the tools shown here.
GARDENING
Apart from items like a spade, a fork and a pair of gloves, you may also need a mower and a small number of dedicated tools like those shown below.
MORE TOOLS
Often the best way of getting tools is to buy them when the need arises. For example, you have a spade and fork, but you soon find that you need a shorter, lighter spade, or a fork with a more comfortable handle, so you get another one. If you are less keen on the construction aspects, larger and/or more specific tools like a power tamper or cement mixer are best borrowed or rented. You could also borrow a few tools, and then buy your own when you know what it is about the borrowed tools that you like.
MATERIALS
BRICK AND STONE
Brick and stone can be purchased direct from the producer, from builder’s merchants and from architectural salvage companies.
Buying earth and turf
Earth is best purchased by the cubic meter or yard in a giant bag or by the truckload. The more you get, the cheaper it will be. Be careful that you do not buy poorer-quality stuff than you already have.
Turf, or sod, is sold in rolled-up strips about 1 ft (30 cm) wide and 2–3 ft (60–90 cm) long. The cheapest way is to buy it direct from the grower. They are usually quite happy for you to pick up a small number of strips.
MATERIALS
WOOD
Wood in all its forms can be obtained variously from lumber yards, builder’s merchants, garden centers and specialty suppliers.
CONCRETE AND MORTAR
While there are as many “best” recipes as there are builders, the following work well. The numbers signify the ratio of ingredients (by volume) to each other, measured