Plant Combinations for an Abundant Garden. A. & G. Bridgewater
several times. When complete, place the slab on a board, so that the scored line is positioned above its edge. Use the wooden handle of a club hammer to knock the slab sharply so it breaks along the line.
Cutting concrete brick pavers
Unless a squared pattern (see right) is used to lay pavers, cutting is essential. This can be done by using a bolster chisel and club hammer in the same way as for paving slabs (see above, right); when laying a large patio it is better to rent a wet saw. Don’t forget to wear goggles and strong gloves.
LAYING CONCRETE PAVERS
Also known as “flexible” pavers, they gain this name because they are laid on a bed of coarse sand and can, if necessary, later be lifted and relaid. They are about the size of house bricks and ideal for straight paths. Crazy paving is better for curved paths.
1. Mark out the area of the path, remove topsoil and install 6 in (15 cm) deep side constraints. These are vital to hold the sand and bricks in place.
2. Spread and firm a 3 in (7.5 cm) thick layer of filler over the base.
3. Spread a 2 in (5 cm) thick layer of coarse sand over the filler. Select a 6 in (15 cm) deep piece of wood; cut notches at the ends so that when drawn over the sand it leaves the surface the thick ness of the paver, minus ⅜ in (9 mm), below the top of the sides.
4. Place the pavers on the sand in the desired pattern (see here).
5. Compact the pavers by placing a flat piece of wood on the surface and repeatedly tapping it with a club hammer.
6. Brush coarse sand over the surface, then again compact the pavers. Repeat this, then water the surface with a fine-rosed watering can.
CONSTRUCTING A GRAVEL PATH
Gravel paths have a relaxing ambience, yet can be either formal or informal depending on the edging. Strong side constraints are essential. Provide these with concrete slabs or strong wood.
1. Dig out the area of the path, 4 in (10 cm) deep and 3–4 ft (90 cm–1.2 m) wide. Ensure that the path is dug out to an even depth, especially along its edges.
2. Position concrete side constraints, 3 ft (90 cm) long, 2 in (5 cm) thick and 6 in (15 cm) deep. Use a spirit level to check that the sides are level. Cement them in place.
3. When the side constraints are firm and cannot be moved, use a sledge hammer or club hammer to break up large bricks to form an even base. Do not dislodge the side constraints.
4. Spread gravel over the rubble, so that its surface is about 1 in (2.5 cm) below the side constraints. Use a short piece of stout wood or a metal garden rake.
Stepping trunks!
Gravel paths can be made more attractive by letting sections of wide tree trunks into them. A piece of wire netting secured on top of each slice prevents them becoming slippery.
CONTRUCTING A CRAZY-PAVING PATH
1. Use strings to mark the position and width of the path. Dig out topsoil to 6 in (15 cm) deep; install side constraints.
2. Form a 2 in (5 cm) thick layer of compacted filler; then 1 ½ in (36 mm) of coarse sand.
3. Spread mortar over the sand and lay straight-edged pieces of crazy-paving along the sides, about 3 ½ ft (1 m) at a time.
4. Fill the center with irregularly shaped pieces
5. Fill cracks with mortar.
LAYING A NATURAL STONE PATH
Natural stone forms attractive paths. Use strings to mark the path’s area and dig out topsoil. Add filler, then 2 in (5 cm) of coarse sand. Because of its uneven thickness, natural stone is more difficult to lay than crazy paving. Lay the stones on blobs of mortar. Dig out sand and filler from some of the larger joints, and fill with soil- based compost. Later, small, prostrate plants can be put in them.
PATTERNS FOR PAVERS
Complex patterns are best left to professional constructors. Several bonds are simple to create, including running and basketweave.
Before deciding the path’s width, lay out pavers on a flat surface to the desired pattern. The width of the path can then be tailored to suit this measurement, thereby avoiding any unnecessary cutting of pavers.
Basketweave bond
Running bond (crosswise)
Running bond (lengthwise)
Herringbone bond
Squared bond
Simple bond with cross pavers
LIGHTING
Garden illumination – whether on patios, in borders, among trees or around ornamental ponds as well as submerged – has gained in popularity, and in return for the initial cost and subsequent maintenance makes a garden and patio more attractive and usable over a longer period each day. Additionally, autumn-colored deciduous trees and frost-covered stems during winter can be highlighted. For barbecue enthusiasts, patio lighting is essential.
Are garden lights worth installing?
ON PATIOS
The edges of patios and terraces can be transformed by low spotlights as well as column types. Also, where a table is present a light that illuminates it is useful for late-evening relaxation. Avoid having cables suspended randomly over a patio.
IN BORDERS
Throughout summer and into autumn, borders of all types – packed solely with herbaceous perennials or a medley of types – benefit from illumination. Flowers and colored leaves can be given added qualities by lights positioned looking down on plants. Additionally, a few lights within a border create attractive shadows.