Home Gardener's Annuals. Miranda Smith
scutellarioides)
• Edging lobelia (Lobelia erinus)
• Flowering tobacco (Nicotiana x sanderae)
• Geranium (Pelargonium species)
• Globe amaranth (Gomophrena globosa)
• Heliotrope (Heliotropium arborescens)
• Impatiens (Impatiens hybrids)
• Madagascar periwinkle (Catharanthus roseus)
• Marguerite (Argyranthemum frutescens)
• Marigold (Tagetes species)
• Nasturtium (Tropaeolum species)
• Nemesia (Nemesia strumosa)
• Pansy (Viola x wittrockiana)
• Petunia (Petunia x hybrida)
• Plume-type celosia (Celosia argentea)
• Pot marigold (Calendula officinalis)
• Rose moss (Portulaca grandiflora)
• Salvia (Salvia species)
• Sapphire flower (Browallia speciosa)
• Snapdragon (Antirrhinum majus)
• Stock (Matthiola incana)
• Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
• Variegated vinca (Vinca major ‘Variegata’)
• Wax begonia (Begonia Semperflorens-Cultorum hybrids)
• Wishbone flower (Torenia fournieri)
• Yellow cosmos (Cosmos sulphureus)
• Zinnia (Zinnia species)
A romantic window box (opposite) overflowing with cascading petunias softens a brick facade. Red and white flowering tobacco add height to the planting.
PLANTING A WINDOW BOX
1 Clean used boxes thoroughly with a brush and then a 10 percent bleach solution.
2 Plant the tallest plants to the rear, the shortest in the front, and midsize plants between.
3 Water well, and fill in any low spots with extra potting soil. Shade until plants are established.
4. Keep plants watered, deadheaded, and trimmed to promote season-long blooming.
CARING FOR WINDOW BOXES
Because they contain such a small volume of soil, window boxes need frequent watering. You’ll need to water at least once a day in hot weather. Aim to keep the soil evenly moist but not soggy or waterlogged.
You’ll need to fertilize regularly, too. Water-soluble liquids, granular blends, and timed-release pellets are the easiest and most convenient fertilizers. Follow the package directions for quantities and timing. Fast-growing annuals will probably need fertilizing every two weeks or so, unless you use a timed-release fertilizer.
PLANTING LARGE CONTAINERS
When you plant a half-barrel or other large container with several kinds of plants, choose the plants carefully. Plan for a gradation of heights, like a miniature version of a garden bed or border, to create a sense of depth and a more interesting display.
For a full barrel, plan on buying three tall plants, four to six mediumheight plants, and eight to twelve small or trailing edging plants. The barrel may look a bit sparse when you first plant it, but it will quickly fill in. If you stuff a container too full of young plants, either the larger ones will soon engulf the smaller ones, or all of them will languish after a month or so for lack of space. If you plant so densely that you have an instantly overflowing container, plan to fertilize frequently throughout the growing season.
Before planting, place the container where you want it. Unless you put it on wheels, it will be too heavy to move once it’s planted. Make sure the drainage is adequate; drill holes in wooden containers and cover them with nylon screening. Fill the pot to within 3 inches of the rim.
PLANTING A LARGE CONTAINER
1 Plant the tallest plants (here, sunflowers) at the rear or in the center, depending on how the pot will be viewed.
2 Next, place the midsize plants (here, cannas) in front of the tallest ones or surrounding them.
3 Place the next largest plants (here, caladiums) either in front of or surounding the midsize ones.
4 Plant trailers (here, cascading petunias and sweet potato vines) at the edges of the pot to cascade over the sides.
By late summer, the sunflowers and cannas (planted above) will be in bloom, and the caladium, sweet potato vine, and petunias will be thriving.
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