The Complete Make-Up and Beauty Book. Leigh Toselli
Use abrasive facial scrubs
• Smoke, it accelerates loss of elastin and collagen
• Steam or apply ice to the skin
• Use soap bars and bar cleansers
• Use skin-care products that contain preservatives like lanolin and mineral oil.
Stinging is a sign that a product is irritating your skin. It usually occurs immediately, so it’s easy to identify the culprit. If you’re using a potent anti-ageing product, ask for something gentler.
Itching may be an allergic reaction to a medication, cosmetic or skin-care product. Apply cold compresses and try to track down the source.
If your eyelids are itchy, you may have a contact allergy to latex or nickel in your eyelash curler or to formaldehyde in your nail polish.
If your hairline is itchy, red and scaly, your shampoo, conditioner, or hair colour may be responsible. The scalp is fairly resistant but the hairline, ears, and neck are not. Discontinue use.
Blackheads, also known as comedones, occur when sebum dries and hardens before it reaches the surface, blocking the pore in the process. When the sebum and dead cells in the follicle oxidize, they turn dark in colour.
Acne is thought to be triggered by hormonal changes that occur during puberty and times of stress. When this happens, levels of androgen rise and the sebaceous glands go into overdrive. This results in excessive amounts of oil, which ultimately lead to acne. The occasional spot is usually the result of bacteria penetrating the skin and causing infection.
Hyperpigmentation – or sun, age, brown or liver spots – are caused by an excess of melanin, the pigment that gives the skin its colour. Discontinue birth-control tablets or oestrogen-replacement pills and start using sunscreens.
The size of your pores
Unfortunately, most of the factors that determine pore size are beyond your control:
Genetics. The circumference of the clean, unclogged pore is determined by heredity.
Climate and season. Sebum becomes more fluid in hot, humid weather, so you may notice that your pores expand in summer and contract in winter.
Hormonal fluctuations. Pores may appear larger when hormones step up oil production in puberty and in pregnancy.
Age. As your skin loses elasticity, the openings of your pores relax and appear larger.
Sunlight. UV rays are known pore dilators – another good reason to stay out of the sun.
“Decode your skin’s SOS signals.”
SPECIAL TREATMENTS
The skin’s horny layer or stratum corneum is basically a graveyard for dead skin cells. Every 28 days or so, skin cells called keratinocytes migrate from the lowest level of the epidermis to the stratum corneum to die, forming a shield that keeps out harmful substances and helps block moisture loss.
So it makes sense to entrust the care of such a vital organ to a facial therapist. Even people with a normal skin are advised to wait four weeks between facials (for the full keratinization process) simply because too much of anything can irritate the skin. Anyone with inflamed acne, redness, pimples, or enlarged blood vessels should rather consult a dermatologist.
A typical facial at a salon will consist of cleansing, exfoliation, massage, extraction, and moisturizing. Ideally, skin type dictates treatment. For example, someone with oily skin will get an oil-absorbing mud mask, while someone with dry skin will have a facial massage with a rich moisturizer. So before laying a hand on you, an aesthetician should examine your skin carefully.
Most therapists report a substantial improvement in the texture and condition of the skins they treat. This is partly because an expert eye and a different pair of hands will be able to assess and treat problem areas more easily than you could yourself. The benefits aren’t just restricted to your face – an hour in a beauty salon is a relaxing experience that relieves stress and gives your whole system a boost.
While you are having your facial, ask the beautician what she is doing, which products she is using and which she thinks will work for you. Look out for tips that you can use at home. Finally make a mental note of how your skin feels and looks after the facial to learn from the treatment.
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