Indian Cooking For Dummies. Monisha Bharadwaj
I was born and raised in Mumbai, which was then called Bombay. As the commercial capital of India, Mumbai attracts people from all over the country who come to work in finance, business, or films. (India’s film industry, which produces the largest number of films every year, is based here.) The cuisine of Western India is a wonderful mix, and I grew up thinking that what I ate was what all of India was eating. Only when I trained as a chef did I realize how privileged I was to have had all of India on my plate in my very own home!
Mumbai and the Parsi influence
India saw two important migrations from Iran. The first were the Zoroastrians, called the Parsis, who arrived around the eighth century as they fled from religious persecution. They arrived on the west coast of India. From here, they moved to other parts of the country, many settling in Mumbai. Their cuisine is a fabulous mix of Indian, Persian, and European styles and is very much a part of the cuisine of modern Mumbai. Signature dishes include dhansak and patia.
The second group of people were migrants from Iran who came to Bombay in the 19th century for economic reasons. They set up Irani cafes, known for their distinctive decor, uncomfortable bentwood chairs (no one is encouraged to linger because trade is brisk), and a unique menu that features dishes like puff-pastry patties, bread pudding, and ground meat curries served with bread. These cafes (very reasonably priced) are popular among students and office workers.
This cuisine is one of my favorites, so I always look forward to being invited to a Parsi wedding. I know the feast will be an extravaganza of fried chicken, meat curries, and delicious desserts served with jewel-colored sodas.
Pune and the Sindhi influence
The Partition of India and Pakistan was a major event that has shaped the history of modern India. Around a million Hindu Sindhis, who lived in the Sindh province, now in Pakistan, are said to have moved to India. Many settled around Bombay and the nearest large town, Pune. They brought a cuisine that was infused with Persian and Arabic flavors but was essentially cooked with a few Indian spices. I’ve seen a good number of fried foods, such as breads and potatoes, in this meal that are hazardous to my waistline, but there are also recipes for green vegetables, lentils, and chicken that I love for their freshness. My Sindhi friends often serve papads (popadams; the Sindhis are well known for their love of these) with the meal, but never with dips as found in Indian restaurants in the West.
Konkan’s golden coastlines
I’ve never forgotten the short plane trip I made a few years ago from Mumbai to Mangalore on the west coast of India. The plane flew low, and the view was unbroken blue sea bordered by a narrow strip of golden sand merging with lush palm trees. The Arabian Sea along the coast of Konkan provides the perfect ingredients for a cuisine rich in fish and seafood. The trees give coconuts that are grated into curries to make creamy sauces. Tangy fish curries flavored with tamarind or kokum (a sour local fruit) are eaten with rice and fried fish or shrimp, dusted with chile powder, salt, and garlic; they make a regular appearance on the Konkani table.
The fish markets on the coast are great for tourists, too, because you can just soak up the atmosphere. At around 7 a.m., the boats come into the dock and, amidst much excitement and shouting, the catch is offloaded into baskets on shore. Fishmongers and restaurants quickly buy what they want, and the rest is sold to home cooks. Never will you find fresher catch available — and often at a very good price!
Gujarat and its extravagant thalis
Gujarat is the mango-shaped state to the west of India. It’s famous for its delicate, vegetarian cuisine and especially for the thali, a metal plate with several small bowls filled with an array of tempting dishes. The word thali means “metal plate,” but the term has also come to denote the meal that is served on one. A thali has rice, breads, fried accompaniments called farsans, vegetables, lentils, and sweets, all served at once. There are no courses, and you can mix and match dishes as you like.
Because there are so many dishes in this feast, preparing it at home is time-consuming and expensive. Most people go to a specialty restaurant (or a wedding) to enjoy it. It’s quite an experience, and best of all, you can eat as much as you want for a fixed price. I think most people grudgingly stop eating because of guilt (what will the waiter say?) or food fatigue (I don’t think I’ll make it to the door!). You can find more about how to create your own thali meal in Chapter 9.
Chapter 2
Embracing India’s Love of Vegetables
IN THIS CHAPTER
You may have heard that India is the vegetarian capital of the world. It has the largest number of vegetarians, and meat consumption is low. However, Indian cuisine also has a delicious and varied meat, poultry, and fish repertoire.
In India, vegetarian food is the default. If you eat meat, you’re referred to as a “nonvegetarian.” Most restaurants have both vegetarian and nonvegetarian offerings, and plenty of them cater exclusively to vegetarians. Most religious feasts, such as Hindu weddings, are vegetarian, but to be honest, I’ve never had a boring one. The vegetarian repertoire of Indian cooking is infinite and delicious!
In this chapter, I tell you how to put together a vegetarian or vegan meal and how to incorporate Ayurveda into your diet.
A BRIEF HISTORY OF VEGETARIANISM IN INDIA
India’s association with vegetarianism goes back almost two millennia. Thousands of years ago, animals were hunted for food and meat was eaten regularly. The anti-meat sentiment began to be felt with the rise of Buddhism and Jainism, the founders of which, the Buddha and Lord Mahavira, respectively, taught their followers the doctrines of nonviolence. As more and more people began to convert to these belief systems, Hindu priests, fearing that a great number of their people would convert from Hinduism to these more peaceful ways, also began preaching against the killing of animals. They prescribed a vegetarian diet as being more worthy than the older ideas of animal sacrifice.
Today, almost 85 percent of India follows Hinduism, and some of these people are vegetarian (most of the time for religious reasons). However, not all Hindus are vegetarian — caste and community also affect this choice. Most nonvegetarians eat meat or fish perhaps once or twice a week because it can be expensive. This choice is not seen as a difficult one because of the huge array of vegetables, lentils, beans, and dairy products available.
Modern trade, as well as human migration, has meant that Indian vegetarian food has become more popular and available all over the world.
Putting Together Vegetarian and Vegan Meals
If you’ve just embarked on a vegetarian or vegan lifestyle, or even if you’re just cutting down on your meat consumption, Indian food has lots to offer. You’ll want to think not only about stripping your current diet of animal products but also about how to build a sustainable, balanced way of vegetarian or vegan eating that keeps you satisfied and healthy.
Indian meals are a balance of carbohydrates, proteins, fat, and fiber that comes from beans, legumes, and vegetables. There are plenty of options to choose from when planning your vegetarian menu. Leaving out dairy products (such as ghee, yogurt, and milk) and other animal products (like honey) can make it vegan, too. In India, eggs are considered nonvegetarian.