Walking in Abruzzo. Stuart Haines
You are even more unlikely to meet a European lynx, but it has been spotted and is thought to have a reasonable chance of survival provided levels of protection are maintained. Wild cats and pine martens also live a rare and secluded life in the forests.
In the same areas, grey wolves are doing better. Although still rare, their numbers are slowly increasing (between 1500 and 2000 individuals in the Apennines, most of which are in Abruzzo), and tracks at least can be spotted in the more remote areas.
Easier to come across in all three national parks are Abruzzi chamois living in large family groups on the bare rocks above the tree line. Walks 1, 7, 8, 16 and 23 are recommended for a good chance of seeing them.
Family of chamois on Passo Cavuto (Walk 23)
Red deer and roe deer are relatively common throughout the forested areas. The magnificent sound and sight of rutting red deer stags in the autumn is unforgettable. Walk 23 offers a good prospect of the experience at this time of year.
If you are lucky, otters can be seen in the rivers of the Maiella National Park. The Orfento valley is a potential spot – see Walk 5.
The most common of the large mammals is the wild boar – since its reintroduction it has become well established. You may come across them in the forest (if they haven’t sensed your arrival first – they are shy).
In the skies above the wilder parts of the region, golden eagles drift on the thermals. The Celano gorge (Walk 35), Colli Alti (Walk 29) and the Fara San Martino gorge (Walk 1) are good spots for viewing. Peregrine falcons swoop and plunge above the cliffs where they nest – try the old quarries on Walk 33 which are a favourite haunt. In the woods, the cries of woodpeckers and jays are common, while on the high crags the sharp whistle of choughs is an equally frequent part of the mountain soundtrack.
Fox in the Val Chiarino (Walk 19)
Plants and flowers
The mountains and remoter parts of Abruzzo are a plant lovers’ paradise. The protected and relatively undeveloped landscape, the variety of habitats and the climatic conditions sustain a rich flora – from resin-scented Mediterranean scrub, through to magnificent beech and oak forest, and up to delicate, brilliantly coloured alpine meadows.
In the mountains, the retreating snows trigger an explosion of bright spring-time growth – crocus, mountain pansies, gentians, poppies, beautiful creeping alpines and, in places, the Apennine edelweiss. Lower down, the woods and valleys fill with a profusion of flowering plants and shrubs from the end of winter to late summer, with a variety of orchids prominent. The extensive beech, pine, oak and birch forests are a spectacle in their own right, and in the autumn present vivid fireburst shades of orange, red and yellow.
The compact Abruzzo National Park provides a home for over 2000 species, including the black pine and the characteristic but rare lady’s slipper orchid. Mountain, or mugo, pine grows thickly in places in the Maiella National Park. In the Sirente-Velino Regional Park, the purple Marsican iris stands tall in May and June, while the high plain of Campo Imperatore in the Gran Sasso National Park is tinted lilac by a vast carpet of crocuses every spring.
Wild flowers and ferns in the Maiella
Food and drink
The pleasure of walking in Abruzzo is perfectly complemented by enjoyment of the local cuisine – the freshest plate of antipasti, followed by the speciality house pasta dish and, if you have room, a meat or fish main course. The desserts can rarely be resisted, and the evening is best ended with coffee and a glass of the village amaretto. A visit to the local pizzeria or café will result in an equally satisfying experience – Italians take eating and drinking seriously!
A simple mix of mountain robustness, fertile hill country and the riches of the sea has produced a fine and varied regional gastronomy – the pasta, lamb, pecorino cheese and fish dishes are renowned throughout Italy, as is the characteristic Montepulciano d’Abruzzo red wine. There are delights to be found in the village alimentari, in the next-door bar, on every restaurant menu and, especially, on market-day stalls.
Abruzzo is a famous pasta region, home to De Cecco and Delverde, two of Italy’s leading producers. Chitarra is a typically Abruzzese form – square-shaped strands made by pushing a pasta sheet through wires strung across a wooden box. Pasta and bean stew (pasta fagioli ) delicately flavoured with fresh herbs is a simple delight at the end of a long day’s walk.
From the flocks of mountain sheep come pecorino and riccota, among the finest in Italy. Both cheeses find their way into many regional recipes. Local production still plays an important role, and cheesemakers may be encountered on walks across the high plains. The traditional significance of sheep rearing is seen, too, in the local passion for arrosticcini – skewers of small lamb kebabs grilled over an open charcoal-filled trough. Roast pork (porchetta ) is also a regional favourite.
Pescara is the home of a large fishing fleet and the quayside market is a fine sight when the boats come in. Fish stews, risottos, soups and simple grilled fillets taste delicious when so fresh. Again, local recipes feature strongly in the region’s restaurants.
Other regional specialities are fine olives; saffron from the Navelli plain; red garlic and sugared almonds (confetti ) from Sulmona; lentils from Santo Stefano; polenta made from maize; truffles, chestnuts and porcini mushrooms from the forests; and cima di rapa – a green leafed vegetable prepared quite deliciously.
Wine production, too, is a regional obsession. Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is the local red wine and Trebbiano and Pecorino are the whites. Much of the production is on a small scale for family use but the commercial wineries produce many memorable bottles.
Nearly every village in the region has its festa, usually in the summer – a celebration of the local speciality food with music, wine and, at the end of the night, lots of fireworks.
Walking in Abruzzo
Abruzzo is wonderful walking country. It is one of the wildest and least populated regions of Italy, with 169 peaks over 2000m, long mountain ridges, high plains and deep gorges, huge forests of native beech, oak and pine and gentle fertile valleys. The highest points in peninsular Italy and the southernmost glacier in Europe are all here.
This beautiful natural environment is maintained to a remarkable extent in the region’s three national parks, one regional park and many smaller reserves. Almost a third of the entire region is afforded protected status of one form or other. The parks cover the four main mountain massifs; they correspond also to the main walking areas, although there are many fine routes throughout the region.
The Gran Sasso e Monte della Laga National Park covers an area of over 150,000 hectares in the north of the region, one of the largest national parks in Italy. Its spectacular high point is Corno Grande, at 2912m the highest point in the Apennines. In a wild corrie sheltered by the three peaks of Corno Grande lies the small and fast-disappearing Calderone glacier, the most southerly in Europe. From the foot of the mountain, the magnificent high plain of Campo Imperatore stetches away for 25km. With an average altitude of 1400m, the plain covers an empty 80km2.
The Maiella National Park lies in the south east and covers the area of the high and wild Amaro massif, the nearby Morrone massif and the ridges and plains that run up to them. Monte Amaro, at 2793m, is a barren and exhilarating place – the second highest point in the Apennines. The park is just 30km from the Adriatic, and the south east slopes are incised by a series of spectacular gorges. Ancient monasteries and hermits’ retreats are hidden away, blended into the remote cliff faces.
The long-established Abruzzo, Lazio e Molise National Park lies in the south west of the region. It’s a relatively small area but its high peaks and ridges and remote forested valleys harbour an internationally famous wildlife. Its biodiversity is as remarkable