Walking in Abruzzo. Stuart Haines
tree line.) Don’t forget a small pair of binoculars, your camera and a field guide to trees and flowers.
Especially if you are going above the tree line, take full mountain kit – strong boots and windproof hooded jacket, windproof quick-drying trousers, extra fleece, compass, whistle, map, rations and first-aid kit. Walking poles are very useful.
Sheep dogs
Sooner or later you will encounter a flock of sheep with attendant dogs. The dogs are likely to approach and bark at you (it’s their job), but will essentially keep their distance. The best option is to avoid the flock if you can. If not, walk calmly and purposefully, taking a wide, skirting line without looking at the dogs. They will desist and go as soon as they realise you are leaving and not a threat. If retreat seems the best option, keep your head lowered, don’t turn your back and don’t run.
Sheep dog and its flock
Rockfall and blocked paths
The mountains of Abruzzo are high, steep, forested and, in places, unstable. They are also covered in thick snow in winter. Every spring there are rockfalls and avalanches, and very occasionally there may be a landslip or rockfall later in the year. Although the chances of witnessing such collapses are very small, they may affect you indirectly by bringing down trees and rubble that block paths and minor access roads. Blocked paths may remain so for a long time afterwards.
The route descriptions account for all known blockages up to the end of 2017, but others will occur in due course. Be aware of the possibility and, if you find your route barred, don’t retreat straight away – it’s often localised and possible to pick a way around.
Treat the mountains with respect
Thunderstorms and mists can form very quickly and are frequent on hot afternoons. Leave notice of your intended route and parking location. Remember that the Abruzzo mountains are very large, wild and empty places – treat them with care and respect.
Remember, too, that the forest is dense and extensive – stay on a good path and always know where you are. It’s easy to become disoriented, especially on cloudy days.
In the winter, snow down to 500m is common, so paths will be obliterated and rocks icy, and there are of course fewer daylight hours. Avalanches occur every year. Don’t go out unless you are fit, experienced, well clothed and equipped (walking axes and snowshoes). You should start at or before dawn, know how to navigate and assess avalanche risk, and consult a good forecast. That said, a calm day with an azure sky, crystal air and sparkling snow is an amazing thing – don’t be too put off!
Mountain rescue
Despite all your preparation and attention, unexpected circumstances can arise and accidents do happen. If you find that you need help, call the mountain rescue service (Soccorso Alpino) on 118. (The Italian general emergency number is 113, and the European general emergency number is 112.) It is recommended that prior to travelling you buy travel insurance that covers hill walking and mountain rescue as well as the normal travel and medical risks.
THE MAIELLA NATIONAL PARK
Monte Amaro summit cross and the Valle di Femmina Morta (Walk 9)
WALK 1
Fara San Martino gorge and Val Serviera
| Start/finish | Car park for Fara San Martino gorge (42.087945, 14.198860) |
| Distance | 16.5km |
| Total ascent/descent | 2100m |
| Difficulty | 3 (route snowbound from about November to Easter) |
| Walking time | 7hr 30min (5hr if you retrace your steps from the high point) |
| High/low points | 1675m/398m |
| Map | Majella – Carta Escursionistica (1:25,000) |
| Access | Fara San Martino is tucked under the steep east flank of the Maiella, at the outlet of the gorge. Reach it from the south via the SS84 along the foot of the massif through the villages of Palena and Lama dei Peligni. About 2km beyond Lama, at Corpi Santi, turn left onto the SP214 and follow signs for Fara, 4km further on. From the north, either take the SP214 from Pennapiedimonte via Palombaro or, from Guardiagrele, turn right off the SS81 at Piano Aventino, just north of Casoli, and follow signs for Fara which is 7km away. |
| Parking | Arriving from the south, the road descending to the village swings sharply right at a bar on the left. Turn left at this bend and follow an unsealed road, signposted ‘gole’, for about 150 metres to a parking area before the entrance to the gorge. |
A long day out exploring two spectacular and wild gorges on the eastern flank of the Maiella massif. The village of Fara San Martino, where the route starts and ends, is a famous centre of pasta production. From there the route squeezes through the narrow entrance of the silent Santo Spirito valley, then zig-zags steeply up its north-western side to the crest, before dipping gently down the other side into the even wilder Val Serviera. The return is via the Colle Bandiera overlooking Fara, with a 3km wander along lanes to regain the start point.
The full route is demanding with a lot of ascent but highly rewarding, offering wonderful and contrasting views in the remote beauty of the national park and a good chance to see chamois and golden eagles. If you prefer not to do it all, returning through the Santo Spirito valley from the path junction, the belvedere or the high point makes a very fine day in its own right.
Walk ahead between cliffs into the tight entrance of the gorge. Squeeze through – you’ll easily be able, in places, to touch both sides at once.
The eastern flank of the Maiella massif rises impressively above rolling hills just 25km from the Adriatic Sea. From the 2700m high, lunar-like plateau of Monte Amaro, deep gorges have been incised into the mountainside, cutting down through the layers of limestone to form narrow, twisting, isolated worlds overlooked by dominating cliffs.
The passage opens into a secret world, enclosed on three sides – the Santo Spirito valley. The excavations in the wider gorge beyond are of an old Benedictine monastery, which gave rise to the founding of Fara. The path leads up and into the wider gorge. Walk through the impressive valley, climbing steadily and sometimes steeply between the towering walls, for about 4km. Pass two picnic spots with fountains (often dry) and notice the changing flora as height is gained.
Towards the end the forest thickens and a path junction with a picnic table is reached. The left fork (do not follow this) carries on along the valley bottom, from here on called the Valle di Macchia Lunga, and eventually leads into the high mountain corrie of Valle Cannella and to Rifugio Manzini.
The entrance to Fara San Martino gorge
Instead, take the path on the right for Val Serviera. It twists steeply up through deep fallen leaves of the beech forest. At half-height the path trends right, leaving the trees and continuing to a tremendous belvedere. Enjoy the level going and fine views down to where you recently passed. After 1km the climb recommences, with the path zig-zagging steeply up to the left. A small deviation leads to a fountain 30 metres away. Trudge on and up to reach the crest between the valleys.
Turn