Walking in Abruzzo. Stuart Haines
for 300 metres or so to reach the day’s high point where the path slants obviously rightwards on the other side and back into trees. (Don’t be tempted to go right too soon.) Descend gently into the Val Serviera, leaving the forest again and emerging onto a grassy promontory – a favoured haunt of a group of chamois (camoscia ). Carefully locate the way off the far side and go down a short rocky gully to the river. Hop across on boulders and climb briefly up to a shepherds’ hovel called Callarelli, ‘restored’ somewhat by the national park.
From Callarelli, follow the level path east (right) which contours high across the grassy slopes and ledges of the left side of the valley. The views into the gorge are breathtaking. The valley deepens and narrows as the canyon develops. The authorities permit only experienced climbers to explore the canyon – its vertical cascades can be descended only with double abseil ropes. To avoid being drawn in, the path turns left to climb briefly and steeply over a wooded shoulder into the adjacent sub-valley.
Val Serviera at Easter
From the shoulder, descend through trees to emerge at the top of a large stony gully. Snow can linger here throughout the spring but a little should present no difficulty. Descend the gully to the grassy pasture. The path levels and leads south east towards the cross on Colle Bandiera, overlooking the entrance to the Val Serviera. Shepherds’ caves are prominent across the hillside. Ignoring paths to the left, walk up to the cross.
The panorama is huge, with views back into the massif and across to Lago San Angelo, and hilltop villages scattered across the undulating countryside to the sea. Fara lies over 700m below.
Descend from the cross to join the path on the edge of the gorge. Follow it leftwards (don’t be tempted down right – a track that leads only to more shepherds’ caves). Pass a fountain and, swinging further left, begin the steady, long descent to the foot of the mountain. The good path leads north east – taking you disappointingly away from the village.
The descent is steady until, with relief, the path turns sharp right and, after a final swing northwards, turns right (east) again to continue down to end at a white 4x4 track. (If you reach a first small building before the sharp right turn, you have missed it. Retrace your steps for about 30 metres to find it.)
Turn right on the track towards Fara, about 3km away, and walk back along lanes, in places tarmacked and in others not, following occasional signposts marked ‘G3’. In general, keep near to the foot of the mountain and pass behind the Di Cecco pasta factory, always heading towards Fara.
Rivers flowing through the gorges or springing from their mouths powered small industries in the settlements along the foot of the escarpment. In Fara San Martino the waters of the Verde river, which springs between the village and the mountain, gave rise to pasta production. Several firms were established and, today, the output of the enormous De Cecco factory can be found in delicatessens around the world.
At one point walk alongside the river that flows from Val Serviera. The final stretch arrives at the bottom of Fara San Martino.
Turn right onto the main road, pass an old factory and fork right into a small park lying in the rising valley between the village and mountain. In the park are archaeological remains of early waterworks, mills and generators. The source of the River Verde, springing from the foot of the mountain, makes an interesting pause. The last stretch up to the car park is on tiresome unsealed roads, but is soon over. Take a left turn to regain the track driven down at the start of the day for the easiest approach.
WALK 2
The hermitage of San Bartolomeo di Legio
| Start/finish | Decontra, in the north of the Maiella National Park (42.169530, 14.028257) |
| Distance | 5.5km |
| Total ascent/descent | 280m |
| Difficulty | 1 (route may be snowbound in the winter months) |
| Walking time | 2hr 30min |
| High/low points | 876m/684m |
| Map | Majella – Carta Escursionistica (1:25,000) |
| Access | Decontra is about 3km north east of Caramanico Terme, the main town in the central valley of the Maiella. Take the SR487 from the north or south to Caramanico. (For further details see Appendix B.) |
| Parking | Shortly after entering the village (just beyond ‘Il Cervo’ restaurant) the road swings left, passing a church on the right. After 200 metres the road turns right in a hairpin. Park here in a sensible spot. Alternatively, park near the stone well. |
The small mountain village of Decontra lies high above the northern slopes of the wonderful Orfento valley, plunging deeply from the slopes of the Amaro massif. This gentle uphill stroll crosses the stony meadows and young woodlands of the northern Maiella foothills, followed by a steep descent into the narrow valley sheltering the centuries-old hermitage built almost imperceptibly into the cliffs of the far bank. The route offers fine views towards the sea and the Gran Sasso range and presents a quiet insight into the life of the people who lived here in times past. Return to Decontra by retracing your steps, admiring fine examples of Maiellan ‘stone beehives’ along the way.
Walk north west along an unsealed white track that leaves the hairpin bend (there is likely to be a signpost for the hermitage) and in 200 metres reach a crossroads with a superb stone well in the field on the left.
The stone well at Decontra
Do not continue straight ahead. Instead turn right (signpost for Valle Giumentina) and, in a few metres, take the gently rising track on the right, which runs straight for about 300 metres until it reaches a larger white road. Cross over and continue in the same direction, still rising gently. Look out for red-topped posts marking the way. There are also signs for ‘Eremo S. Bartolomeo’.
Pass summer houses to the left and right in young oak woods. In about 200 metres the track levels and, keeping to the right, passes into and through fields until it swings left across the bed of a little stream. The path becomes less evident and, leaving the larger track, heads obliquely right across meadows full of piles of rocks. Keep a lookout for the posts, which still mark the way. In a further 400 metres the path reaches another white unsealed roadway and more signs for the hermitage.
Turn left onto the white road and pass a small, new building on the left. In a few hundred metres a grassy track leaves the road to the right, soon passing a stone-built (slightly collapsed) ‘beehive’ shepherds’ shelter (tholos ), so characteristic of the Maiella. Continue past the shelter on the grassy track to the lip of the gorge and gaze down to the band of cliffs on the far side and the cleverly disguised hermitage itself.
The caves and rocky walls of these remote and sheltered gorges have been exploited for centuries as havens for the pious and the persecuted. A number of hermitages and small chapels were established on the cliff faces themselves, surviving today as reminders of the region’s strong spiritual past. The San Bartolomeo di Legio hermitage, hidden away in its narrow gorge, is perhaps the most accessible and interesting.
The hermitage of San Bartolomeo di Legio
Descend steeply to the right, passing an excellent grassy picnic spot about a third of the way down. At the bottom, cross the little river by a small bridge largely comprised of very big boulders. Climb the path on the other