Okinawa and the Ryukyu Islands. Robert Walker
of the world, so-called sago “palms” are only very distantly related to the palm family, nor are they ferns. They are cycads, a millions of years old family of plants unchanged since the time of dinosaurs and more closely related to ginkos and conifers. There are several hundred species spread over a dozen genera. Very slow growing but long-lived, they can reach heights of 20 feet (6 meters) in 50–100 years. They are dioecious, that is, they are male and female plants, with the males bearing large cones and the females bearing great groups of furled new leaf-type organs called megasporophylls. Although generally quite poisonous, the plant’s starch may be consumed after proper preparation. In Japan, sago palms are known as sotétsu (蘇鉄 or ソテツ). The cluster at right is one of some 100,000 sagos covering a hillside in Tatsugō on Amami-Ōshima.
Edatekujima, an uninhabited islet off Ōshima’s western shore.
As mentioned, the island’s interior is mountainous. Some of the older roads twist and turn up the mountains and can be slow-going. However, in many sections, newer roads pass straight through the mountains via tunnels, some of which are quite long. Towards Ōshima’s southeastern end, just outside of Uken Village (宇検村; Uken-son), you’ll find Mt Yūwan, the island’s highest peak and a good place for hiking. It’s in a protected forest park zone. The further south you travel, the wider the island becomes. It terminates at the southwesternmost point of Cape Sotsuko (曾津高崎; Sotsuko-zaki). From this long, narrow and scenic cape you’ll see to the north to little, uninhabited Edateku Island, and to the south across the Ōshima Strait (大島海峡; Ōshima-kaikyō), the fairly large island of Kakeroma. There is a ferry service to the latter, but if you wish to go to Edateku, you’ll need a boat—or you can swim. It’s not too far.
As the crow flies, it’s 18 miles (29 kilometers) from Sotsuko Point to Ōshima’s opposite point, its southeasternmost tip at Cape Kaitsu (皆津崎; Kaitsu-zaki). By the contorted roads that for the most part track right alongside Ōshima’s southern shore, it’s 35 miles (56 kilometers), and that does not include a final 1.5-mile (2-kilometer) hike at either end, for the road does not go all the way to the very end of each promontory. This southern end island drive is particularly scenic as it follows closely along the Ōshima Strait, where the view is always looking south to Kakeromajima.
YAGIJIMA (山羊島; Yagi-jima). This tiny islet, whose name means “Goat Island,” is located at the ocean approach to Nazé and forms part of the tsunami barrier which protects the harbor. It’s connected to the “mainland” by an 80-foot (25-meter) bridge. The islet is roughly circular in dimension and measures about 575 feet (175 meters) in diameter. It would be uninhabited but for a small resort hotel on its southern (protected) side. It’s called the Amami Seaside Hotel (奄 美 シーサイド ホテル; Amami shī-saido hoteru) and it’s a nice choice for those who like to be on the water but not far from downtown.
EDATEKUJIMA (枝手久島; Edatéku-jima). This little uninhabited isle is just off Ōshima’s western shore, north of Sotsuko Point. It’s oval-shaped, about 2.5 miles (4 kilometers) long and not quite 1.25 miles (2 kilometers) wide. The road heading west out of Uken runs right past it, a bit north of its closest point to shore. You could easily swim to it, but watch the tides for there can be swift currents.
2 KAKEROMAJIMA 加計呂麻島
The largest town on Ōshima’s southern shore is Setouchi (瀬戸内町; Sétouchi-chō). It’s on the eastern side. From the harbor at Koniya (古仁屋; Koniya) there is a daily ferry service available on the Kakeroma Ferry (フェリー かけろま; Ferie-Kakéroma) to two ports on Kakeroma Island. One route crosses the Ōshima Strait in 5 miles (8 kilometers) and lands at the northwestern port of Seso (瀬相; Séso), the other route sails just 3 miles (5 kilometers) to the southeastern port of Ikenma (生間; Ikenma). Either sailing takes about 15 minutes. The two ports are located on Kakeroma’s northern shore and are 9 miles (14 kilometers) apart by road.
Amami Black Rabbit (Pentalagus furnessi)
One of the world’s truly unique creatures is the Amami no Kuro-Usagi (奄美の黒兔), also known as the Ryūkyū rabbit, a living fossil found only on Amami-Ōshima and Tokunoshima. It’s a single species of a single genus, a survivor of an extinct line of ancient rabbits that once lived on the Asian mainland. The Amami rabbit has short legs, a rotund body, smaller ears than other rabbits and large, curved, non-retractable claws, which it uses to dig out its nest. You might not see one because it is mostly nocturnal. It is considered endangered, not only because of man and habu snakes but because of the mongoose, released years ago to control the habu.
The Ōshima-Kakeromajima ferry goes daily to two ports on Kakeroma Island.
The north shore of Kakeroma looking towards the Ōshima Strait.
Describing Kakeromajima’s (加計呂麻島; Kakéroma-jima) shape presents a great challenge but wonderfully illustrates the supposed Chinese proverb that “One picture is worth 1,000 words” for the shape of this island is almost beyond words. Its size, however, can be more easily measured and described. At its longest, and as the crow flies, it’s about 12 miles (20 kilometers) from end to end. Its width varies from as much as 5–6 miles (8–10 kilometers) to as few as one or two in its most narrow places. Kakeromajima has been calculated to have an area of approximately 30 square miles (77 square kilometers) and due to its very irregular shape a rather long coastline of 92 miles (148 kilometers).
There is one main road and it more or less follows along the northern shoreline. From the eastern end of the island near Doren (渡 連; Doren) to the westernmost end at Saneku (実久; Sanéku), it’s a grand total of 22 miles (35 kilometers). You could drive it in less than an hour without making any stops. But it’s a lovely drive and you may wish to stop. You can do this virtually anywhere along the route and take a swim.
In addition to the main northern road, there are several minor roads covering the island’s southern end where there are tiny settlements sprinkled throughout. In fact, there are enough roads generally tracking along the southern coastline that it’s possible to drive a complete circuit of Kakeromajima, although some of the southern roads are very small indeed. If another car approaches, someone must find a spot and pull over. If you circle the island’s circumference, you’ll put about 44 miles (70 kilometers) on your odometer. It will take the better part of a day. If you find the mini-mountain roads too stressful, bear in mind that these back roads are connected to the main northern road at several points along the way and you can always bail out and reconnect. Finally, you would have to be equipped with a pretty clueless GPS to get lost on this small an island. You could, however, take some turns that would lead to a dead end.
Kakeromajima, with its convoluted coastline, is an island full of twists and turns. Here, ferry routes are shown in red, main roads in black.
There is no question about it, Kakeromajima is a perfect island on which to get away from it all. And most fortunately, some enterprising and artistic Japanese has built a lovely pension on the island where you may stay while you’re here. It’s called the Pension “Marine Blue” and it’s about as laid back and funky a place as you could find. It has have about a dozen rooms and bungalows, a full-service restaurant and all the equipment necessary for water sports. It’s right on the beach on the northeast end of the island, just past Ikenma.
Before leaving Kakeroma, let’s point out a few of its neighbors, for there are a number of lesser islands to its west and south. From Kakeromajima’s