Okinawa and the Ryukyu Islands. Robert Walker
Kikaijima (喜界島; Kikai-jima or Kikaiga-shima) is a moderately large island. Its shape is something like that of an elongated pear or perhaps a triangle. Better yet, how about the shape of an arrowhead or an eggplant? You get the idea. It’s wider at the bottom than at the top. It’s about 9 miles (15 kilometers) long and its width varies from around 2–2.5 miles (3.2–4 kilometers) through its northern two-thirds to approximately 6 miles (10 kilometers) at its lower southern one-third. Kikai’s area is 22 square miles (57 square kilometers) and its population a little more than 8,000.
That’s actually quite a few people for an essentially small place. The reason for the relatively high population is that unlike so many of the Amamis, Kikaijima is not mountainous. It’s mostly level, with the exception of one good-sized high ridge which occupies about one-third of the central east side of the island. The escarpment is crowned along its length with a scenic road connecting a couple of parks. But for this exception, most of the rest of Kikai is fully settled, with close to two dozen villages, and highly developed, with almost its entire land surface devoted to agricultural production. Although the primary farming crop is sugar cane, many other crops and fruits are grown, including melons, mangoes and dragon fruit. For this reason, Kikai is sometimes referred to as the “fruity” island.
The “A” Line’s Amami, one of twin ships, the other being the Kikai, that serve Kikaijima.
Because Kikai is a little off the beaten path, few persons visit it. This is a shame, for it is a very pretty island. On the other hand, if you like uncrowded places, Kikai might be just right for you. However, because there is not much tourism, there are not many accommodations. One of the larger hotels in town (maybe 20 rooms) is the Business Hotel Hayashi (ビジネスホテル林; Bisnesu hoteru Hayashi-0997-65-3838). In addition, there are several minshuku inns (民宿).
Kikai is so compact you can walk into town from Kikaijima Airport.
Basically, everything in Kikai Town is within walking distance from the port, even the airport, which is a little less than a mile (1 kilometer) away. The town is primarily composed of the villages of Nakazato (中里; Naka-zato) and Akaren (赤連; Akaren) which surround Wan Port (湾港; Wan-kō).
Kikai is only 15 miles (24 kilometers) east of Amami-Ōshima at the two islands’ closest points, and by coincidence those points are Ōshima’s Airport (奄美空港; Amami-kūkō), which is located on the northeasternmost corner of that island, and the Kikai Airport (喜界空港; Kikai-kūkō), which is on the southwest side of Kikai. It follows therefore, that it’s a short flight between the two islands, about 15 minutes, three times a day. Flying time to Kagoshima on the Japanese “mainland,” is a little further, about one hour. There are one or two flights a day there.
“Mattress” (tatami) class aboard the “A” Line’s Kikai.
As the crow flies, it’s 27 miles (43 kilometers) east–west between Nazé, Amami and Kikai Town, both of which are located next to their respective seaports. However, ships don’t fly like crows. By ferry, over the ocean route, around the top northern end of Ōshima and then back down to Kikai, it’s closer to 45 miles (72 kilometers) and takes about two hours in good weather. There are five sailings a week in both directions on the “A” Line Ferry (マルエー; Maru-A) service. The twin ships, the Amami and the Kikai, make the run.
As with all things ferry-related, things change. So it always pays to double and triple check, but here’s how the service has been operating for the last several years. Five days a week, Monday through Friday, either the Amami or the Kikai departs Kagoshima North Sea Terminal at 5:30PM. It’s about a 238-mile (380-kilometer) cruise, so it takes all night. The ships arrive non-stop at Kikai’s Wan Port the next morning at either 4:30 or 5:30AM.
Half an hour later, at 5:00 or 6:00AM, Tuesday through Saturday, the “A” Line departs and cruises approximately two hours over the northern end of Amami-Ōshima to Nazé Port (名瀬港; Nazé-kō). A half hour later, at approximately 7:30 or 8:30AM, the ships depart Nazé and head southwest along Amami’s west coast, then turn east through the Ōshima Strait that divides Amami from Kakeromajima, and arrive in the southern Amami port of Koniya (古仁屋; Koniya). Altogether, it’s about 45 miles (72 kilometers) and takes two and a quarter hours. The ships arrive at approximately 9:45 or 10:45AM, respectively.
Fifteen minutes later, at about 10:00 or 11:00AM, the Amami or Kikai departs and heads south to Hetono (平土野; Hétono), the west side port on the island of Tokuno. That sailing is also 45 miles (72 kilometers) and takes two hours and fifteen minutes, arriving at 12:15 or 1:30PM, respectively.
Note that on some days (about half the departures), one of the ships continues from Tokunoshima to the port of China (知名; Chee-na) on the next island south, Okino-Erabujima. Those sailings depart between 12:30 and 2:00PM and arrive at China at 2:45 and 4:15PM. These less frequent sailings recommence their return journeys north between 3:00 and 4:30PM and start the cycle all over again.
For most ships terminating at Hetono, the return journey north begins at 12:45PM for the Amami and 1:55PM for the Kikai. Service is five days a week, Tuesdays through Saturdays, with occasional differences. Arrival time at Koniya is 3:10 and 4:20PM, respectively. Twenty minutes later, at 3:30 and 4:40PM, the ships depart and cruise north to Nazé, arriving at 5:40 and 7:00PM.
If you are traveling from Amami-Ōshima to Kikai, here’s when you’ll board. Tuesdays through Saturdays, one of the “A” Lines, the Amami departs Nazé at 6:10PM. The other, the Kikai, leaves at 7:20PM. Sailing time is about two hours, so you’ll arrive at Kikai’s Wan Port at 8:20 or 9:30PM.
To return to Kagoshima from Kikai, on Tuesdays through Saturdays you’ll board the Amami at 8:50PM and the Kikai at 9:50PM and cruise overnight, arriving Wednesdays through Sundays at Kagoshima at 8:00AM and 9:50AM, respectively. Note, and this is very important, on the days one of the ships makes the round-trip extension to China Port, the preceding times are extended by several hours. It's best to verify your actual shipping time prior to your date of departure.
Four-person berths aboard the Kikai.
Sugira Beach is popular for snorkeling and diving.
The Kikai Garden Golf Course.
The “Esplanado” path along Kikai’s western shore.
Kikai is popular for its good snorkeling and diving in safe, sheltered lagoons. Nakazato (中里; Naka-zato) is one of the most popular, with its long stretch of white sand. There are two tiny coral islands in the middle of the cove that are perfect for exploring. But Sugira Beach (スギラビーチ; Sugira bīchi) is the most convenient as it is close to town. The beach is part of the Airport Seaside Park (空港臨海公園; Kūkō rinkai kōen) and you can walk there from town. It’s located just behind the airport. There are changing facilities, toilets and showers at the beach.
As is the case with all the northern Ryukyus, swimming is best from late April through November since December to March is cool and often rainy. If you enjoy snorkeling, the waters of Kikai are perfect natural aquariums full of colorful fish and coral.
If you’re interested, next door to Sugira Beach and its children’s playground is Kikai’s only golf course. It’s a nine-hole set-up and guest privileges are available. It’s called the Kikai Garden Golf Course (喜界ガーデンゴルフ;