Frommer’s EasyGuide to the Grand Canyon & Northern Arizona. Gregory McNamee
Office The post office (
Road Conditions For information on road conditions in the Grand Canyon area, call
Safety The most important safety tip to remember is to be careful near the edge of the canyon. Footing can be unstable and may give way. Keep your distance from wild animals, no matter how friendly they may appear. Avoid hiking alone if at all possible, and keep in mind that the canyon rim is more than a mile above sea level (it’s harder to breathe up here). Do not leave valuables in your car or tent.
Wi-Fi & Internet Access Wi-Fi access is limited in the park. Free Wi-Fi is available at the Visitor Center 8am–5pm, with some computers available for public use; at the Canyon Village Market Deli 8am–6pm; and at the Community Library 11:30am–5pm Monday through Saturday.
| What to Expect Weather-Wise |
The climate at the Grand Canyon is dramatically different from that of Phoenix; there’s even a pronounced difference between the rim and the canyon floor. The South Rim’s altitude is 7,000 feet, and it gets very cold in winter—you can expect snow anytime between November and May, and winter temperatures can be below 0°F (–18°C) at night, with daytime highs in the 20s or 30s (minus single digits to single digits Celsius). Summer temperatures at the rim range from highs in the 80s (20s Celsius) to lows in the 50s (teens Celsius). The North Rim of the canyon is 1,200 to 1,400 feet higher than the South Rim, and it’s much cooler throughout the year; in fact, it’s not open to visitors November through April, because the access road is not kept cleared of snow in winter.
On the canyon floor, temperatures are considerably higher. In summer, the mercury can reach 120°F (49°C) with lows in the 70s (20s Celsius), while in winter, temperatures are quite pleasant with highs in the 50s (teens Celsius) and lows in the 30s (single digits Celsius). July, August, and September are the wettest months because of frequent afternoon thunderstorms. April, May, and June are the driest months, but it still might rain or even snow. Down on the canyon floor, there is much less rain year-round.
Exploring the South Rim
Grand Canyon Village & Vicinity
Grand Canyon Village is the first stop for the vast majority of the more than five million people who visit the Grand Canyon every year. It’s by far the most crowded area in the park, but it also has the most visitor services, overlooks, and historic buildings. As you enter the park through the south entrance, your first unforgettable gasp-inducing glimpse of the canyon is usually at Mather Point, down a short paved path from the Grand Canyon Visitor Center.
Continuing west toward the village proper, you next come to Yavapai Point, which has the best view in the Grand Canyon Village vicinity. (If you can bring yourself to drive past Mather Point and delay your initial glimpse for a few minutes, Yavapai Point actually makes a better first view of the canyon, although parking spaces here are limited.) From Yavapai you can see the Bright Angel Trail, Indian Gardens, Phantom Ranch, the Colorado River, and even the suspension bridge that hikers and mule riders use to cross the river to Phantom Ranch. This is the only bridge across the Colorado for 340 miles, between Hoover Dam downstream and the Navajo Bridge upstream near Lees Ferry. At Yavapai you’ll also find the historic Yavapai Museum of Geology (open daily 8am–8pm in summer, shorter hours other months), which has big glass walls to take in the extraordinary vistas. Don’t miss the geology displays here; they’re the park’s best introduction to the forces that created the Grand Canyon. Yavapai Point is a particularly good spot for sunrise and sunset photos. From here, the paved Grand Canyon Greenway extends 3.5 miles east to the South Kaibab trail head and 3 miles west through Grand Canyon Village.
| Leave the Driving to Them |
We think it’s a mistake to give just 1 day to the park. But if that’s all you have, and you’re coming from Flagstaff, you might be better served by taking a tour. That way, someone else will drive, so that you can enjoy the views. Canyon Dave offers knowledgeable geology-focused tours of the South Rim and East Rim (www.grand-canyon-tours-1.com;
Continuing west from Yavapai Point, you’ll come to Grand Canyon Village proper, with its parking lots and park headquarters (a side road leads to the Market Plaza). The paved pathway along the rim here provides lots of good (though crowded) spots for taking pictures. Step inside the historic El Tovar Hotel and Bright Angel Lodge to take in the wilderness-lodge ambience of their lobbies. Inside Bright Angel Lodge, the Bright Angel History Room has displays on architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, who is responsible for much of the park’s historic architecture, and the Harvey Girls (see box, p. 291). Notice this room’s fireplace—it’s designed to replicate all the geologic layers that appear in the canyon. Adjacent to El Tovar, the Hopi House, an historic souvenir-and-curio shop resembling a Hopi pueblo, was built in 1905 as a place for Hopi artisans to work and sell their crafts; this was the first shop inside the park. Today, it’s full of Native American arts and crafts, including expensive kachina dolls, rugs, jewelry, and pottery. This shop is open daily; hours vary seasonally.
To the west of Bright Angel Lodge, two buildings cling precariously to the rim of the canyon. These are the Kolb and Lookout studios, both of which are listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Kolb Studio is named for Ellsworth and Emory Kolb, two brothers who set up a photographic studio here on the rim in 1904. The construction of this studio generated one of the Grand Canyon’s first controversies—over whether buildings should be allowed on the canyon rim. The Kolbs had friends in high places, however, and their sprawling studio and movie theater remained. Emory Kolb lived here until his death in 1976. It now serves as a bookstore, while the auditorium houses special exhibits. Lookout Studio, built in 1914 from a design by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter, was the Fred Harvey Company’s answer to the Kolb brothers’ studio. Note how it incorporates architectural styles of the Hopi and the Ancestral Puebloans, using native limestone and an uneven roofline to blend in with the canyon walls. It now houses a souvenir store and two lookout points. Both the Kolb and Lookout studios are open daily; hours vary seasonally.
Hermit Road
Leading 8 miles west from Grand Canyon Village to Hermit’s Rest, Hermit Road has, mile for mile, the greatest concentration of breathtaking viewpoints in the park. Closed to private vehicles March through November, it’s one of the most pleasant places for canyon viewing or easy hiking during the busiest times of year: no traffic jams, no parking problems, and plenty of free shuttle buses along the route. Westbound Red buses stop at eight overlooks (Trailview, Maricopa Point, Powell Point, Hopi Point, Mohave Point, the Abyss, Pima Point, and Hermit’s Rest); eastbound buses stop at only Pima, Mohave, and Powell points. December through February, you can drive your own vehicle here, but keep in mind that winters usually mean ice and snow; the road is sometimes closed due to hazardous driving conditions.
You probably won’t want to stop at every viewpoint, so here are some tips to maximize your excursion. First: The earlier you catch a shuttle bus, the more likely you’ll avoid crowds (buses start 1 hour before sunrise, so photographers can get good shots of the canyon in dawn light). Second: The closer you are to Grand Canyon Village, the larger the crowds will be. It’s best to head out early and get a couple of miles between you and the village before getting off the shuttle bus.
| Return of the Condor |
With wingspans approaching 10 feet and weighing as much as 25 pounds, California condors are the largest flying land birds in North America (both mute and trumpeter swans are heavier). In the 1980s, there were only 22 California condors left in the