Frommer’s EasyGuide to the Grand Canyon & Northern Arizona. Gregory McNamee

      Native American art decorates the interior of the Desert View Watchtower, designed by Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter.

      A few minutes’ drive west, at Navajo Point, the Colorado River and Escalante Butte are both visible; there’s also a good view of the Desert View Watchtower. Lipan Point , the next stop, offers the South Rim’s best views of the Colorado River. You can see several stretches of the river from here, including a couple of major rapids. You can also view the Grand Canyon supergroup: several strata of rock tilted at an angle to the other layers of rock in the canyon, indicating an earlier period of mountain building. Its red, white, and black rocks, composed of sedimentary rock and layers of lava, pre-date the canyon’s main layers of sandstone, limestone, and shale. One of the park’s best-kept secrets, a little-known though very rugged trail, begins here at Lipan Point (p. 237).

      The next stop along Desert View Drive is the small Tusayan Museum (daily 9am–5pm), dedicated to the Hopi tribe and the Ancestral Puebloan people who inhabited the region 800 years ago. Outside the museum, there are ruins of an Ancestral Puebloan village, and inside the museum, artfully displayed exhibits explain various aspects of life in the village. A short self-guided trail leads through the ruins. Free guided tours are available.

      Next along the drive is Moran Point, where you can see a layer of red shale in the canyon walls and the ancient Vishnu Schist formation at the bottom. This point is named for 19th-century landscape painter Thomas Moran, known for his Grand Canyon works.

      The next stop, Grandview Point, affords a view of Horseshoe Mesa, another interesting feature of the canyon landscape. In the early 1890s, the mesa was the site of the Last Chance Copper Mine; later that same decade, the Grandview Hotel was built here and served canyon visitors until it closed in 1908. The steep, unmaintained Grandview Trail, which leads down to Horseshoe Mesa, makes a good less-traveled alternative to the South Kaibab Trail, although it is considerably more challenging.

      The last stop along Desert View Drive is Yaki Point. It’s not open to private vehicles—the park service would prefer you park your car in Grand Canyon Village and take the Kaibab Trail Route (Orange) shuttle bus from the Grand Canyon Visitor Center to Yaki Point. The reality is that people passing by in cars want to see what this viewpoint is all about, and now park their cars along the main road and walk up the Yaki Point access road. The spectacular view from here encompasses a wide section of the central canyon. The large, flat-topped butte to the northeast is Wotan’s Throne, one of the canyon’s most recognizable features. You’ll see a lot of hikers at Yaki Point, since it’s also the trail head for the South Kaibab Trail, the preferred downhill hiking route to Phantom Ranch. It’s a more scenic route than the Bright Angel Trail—if you’re planning a day hike into the canyon, this should be your number-one choice. Be sure to bring plenty of water.

      Hiking the Grand Canyon

      No visit to the canyon is complete without journeying below the rim on one of the park’s hiking trails. While the views don’t necessarily get any better than they are from the top, they do change considerably. Gazing up at all those thousands of feet of vertical rock walls provides a very different perspective from that atop the rim. Below the rim, you may also see fossils, old mines, petroglyphs, wildflowers, and wildlife. The one thing you won’t find on the park’s main hiking trails is solitude.

      That said, there is no better way to see the canyon than on foot (my apologies to the mules). If you’re in good physical condition and have strong legs and knees, you can simply head down the Bright Angel or South Kaibab trail. Keep in mind, though, that these are the two busiest trails, with hundreds of hikers per day. If you want to see fewer other hikers and are in good shape, consider the Grandview Trail or the Hermit Trail instead. If you just want an easy, relatively level walk, take the Rim Trail/Greenway Trail.

      The Grand Canyon offers some of the most rugged and strenuous hiking in the United States; anyone attempting even a short walk should be well prepared. Each year, injuries and fatalities are suffered by day hikers who set out without sturdy footgear, or without food and adequate amounts of water. Even a 30-minute hike in summer can dehydrate you, and a long hike in the heat can require drinking more than a gallon of water.

      If you go for a day hike in the summer, carry and drink at least 2 quarts of water and a couple quarts of Gatorade or other electrolyte-supplement drink. And do not even think about hiking from the rim to the Colorado River and back in the same day. Although a few very fit individuals have managed this grueling feat, there are also plenty who have tried and died. Finally, remember that mules have the right of way.

      Day Hikes

      Hikers tend to gravitate to loop trails, but here on the South Rim, there are no such trails—all hikes are out-and-back. The good news is that the vastly different scenery in every direction makes the route back look entirely different from the route out. The bad news is that most of these out-and-back trails are the reverse of what you usually find: Instead of starting out by toiling up a steep mountain, gravity assists you in hiking down into the canyon. There are few natural turnarounds, and it’s easy to hike farther than you realize, only to face an arduous slog coming back, when you’re already tired. Here’s a rule of thumb: Expect to take 2 hours climbing back for every hour spent going down. Know your limits and turn around before you become tired.

      For an easy, flat hike, your main option is the Rim Trail , which stretches for 13 miles from the South Kaibab trail head east of Grand Canyon Village to Hermit’s Rest, 8 miles west of the village. Most of this trail is paved; the portion that passes through Grand Canyon Village is always the most crowded stretch of trail in the park. From Powell Point west, it becomes a dirt path for about 3 miles; most of this stretch follows Hermit Road, which means you’ll have traffic noise (although only from shuttle buses for most of the year). The last 2.8 miles is part of the paved Greenway Trail. To avoid crowds and get the most enjoyment out of a Rim Trail hike, head out as early in the morning as you can, taking the shuttle to the Abyss. From here it’s a 4-mile hike to Hermit’s Rest; for more than half of this distance, the trail isn’t as close to the road as it is around Grand Canyon Village. Hermit’s Rest makes a great place to rest, and from here you can catch a shuttle back to the village. Alternatively, take the shuttle all the way to Hermit’s Rest and then hike east, catching a shuttle back whenever you start to feel tired.

      The Bright Angel Trail , which starts just west of Bright Angel Lodge in Grand Canyon Village, is the most popular trail into the canyon, mostly because it starts right where the greatest number of park visitors tend to congregate (near the ice-cream parlor and the hotels). It’s also the route traditionally used for mule rides into the canyon. Bear in mind that this trail follows a narrow side canyon for several miles, and thus has somewhat limited views. On the other hand, it’s the only maintained South Rim trail into the canyon that has potable water, and it has some good turnaround points. 1½ Mile Resthouse (1,131 ft. below the rim) and 3 Mile Resthouse (2,112 ft. below the rim) have water except in winter, when the water is turned off. These rest houses are named for their distance from the rim; if you hike to 3 Mile Resthouse, you will have a 3-mile hike back up. Destinations for longer day hikes include Indian Garden (9 miles round-trip) and Plateau Point (12 miles round-trip), which are both slightly more than 3,000 feet below the rim. There is year-round water at Indian Garden.

      Beginning near Yaki Point, east of Grand Canyon Village, the South Kaibab Trail is the preferred route down to Phantom Ranch. This trail offers the best views of any of the trails into the canyon; if you have time for only one day hike, make it the South Kaibab Trail. From the trail head, it’s 3 miles round-trip to Cedar Ridge and 6 miles round-trip to Skeleton Point. The hike is strenuous, and there’s no