Seat Weaving. L. Day Perry

CHAPTER I

       Caning; The Seven Steps

       Table of Contents

      That caning has not been undertaken to any appreciable extent in school shops is due to the fact that instructors are unfamiliar with the weaving processes. Caning is not difficult. It, in common with many other lines of activity, is best learned thru observation. However, it may be undertaken by the average person after careful study of printed directions and illustrations. If the worker will closely observe his own work as it progresses, and follows instructions carefully, he should have no unusual difficulty in caning an area very acceptably in the initial attempt. Particular attention should be paid to directions which tell of errors to avoid. Errors creep in, in a very unobtrusive manner at times, and the amateur will find them hard to detect.

      Cane.—Cane is the name applied to a great number of plants which possess long, slender, reedlike stems. The name should apply only to a class of palms called rattans. These plants are found thruout the Indian Archipelago, China, India, Ceylon, and the Malay Peninsula. They grow in dense, dark forests and form a matted undergrowth which makes passage difficult or impossible. These palms are trailing in tendency, yet frequently grow to tree height. They then fall over and lie on the ground. The stem is covered with beautiful green foliage, grows to a length of 100 to 300 ft., and rarely exceeds 1 in. in diameter. The stems are cut into lengths of 10 to 20 ft. for export. The outer bark is stripped into widths varying from ¹⁄₁₆ to ³⁄₁₆ in. These strips are put into hanks of 1,000 lineal feet each. The cane is then ready for the cane weaver. A hank of cane costs from 60 cents to $1. The width of the cane and its quality determines the price per hank. It may be purchased from any upholstery supply house.

       Cane is named from the narrowest to the widest in order: carriage, superfine, fine-fine, fine, medium, common, narrow binder, and wide binder. Cane from India has a very glossy surface, while that from other localities is duller. The right side of the cane is easily determined by this glossiness.

      Cane for weaving purposes should not be confused with the popularly called cane or bamboo of our southern states, where it forms the well known cane-brakes. This cane rarely exceeds a height of 20 ft. It grows rapidly and very straight, and to an appreciable diameter. Such cane is used for bamboo furniture, walking sticks, poles, etc. The ordinary domestic sugar cane, also, should not be confused with seating cane.

      FIG. 1. THE CANING NEEDLE.

      Equipment.—The tools needed in cane weaving are few in number. A special one is called the caning needle. This may be made in the school shop. Fig. 1 shows a working drawing of the needle. Its length is variable, depending upon the work at hand. It is desirable to have a number of different lengths. The tool is made of good flexible steel wire. This is flattened at one end, an eye cut in it, blunt pointed, and slightly curved as indicated. The other end is inserted in an ordinary small tool handle, extended thru and riveted. The riveting prevents the wire from drawing out of the handle under a pulling strain.

      The other tools needed are a scratch awl, and a pair of scissors or knife. A button-hook with the hook straightened or cut off may take the place of the awl. A pair of dividers and rule are necessary for marking. Several wood pegs are needed. These may be classed with the tools. They are made from a ¼ in. dowel rod, or the equivalent. Cut them about 4 in. long and point them as you would a lead pencil. The amateur is inclined to use a number of pegs. Four should prove amply sufficient.

      Beginning the Operation.—Fig. 2 is a photograph of an upholstered leg rest with caned sides. This rest will be used for our initial work in cane weaving, inasmuch as the area for caning is rectangular. It is not advisable for the beginner to have his initial experience on a chair seat, for the area is usually of an odd shape, and arms, legs, and back interfere. However, any rectangular area on which there are no projections to bother may be used for the first trial.

      FIG. 2. LEG REST.

      It is assumed that the sides of the rest have been fitted. The rails and stiles are then assembled with glue, without the posts. When the glue has set the proper length of time, and the frame is cleaned and sanded, the rails and stiles are ready to dimension.

      Draw pencil lines entirely around the inner sides of the rails and stiles,½ in. from the edges. This distance remains constant, usually, on all areas and with canes the various widths. With a pair of dividers set at ¼ in. space off points on the pencil lines, starting from the intersection of the extended lines on each rail. Fig. 3 is a working drawing of a corner, dimensioned as suggested. It will make clearer the directions. It is fundamental that the spacing be done in the same direction on parallel rails, for at times the last space will be a short ½ in. or whatever dimension is used. In such cases it is necessary to redivide the last several spaces into divisions as near ½ in. as possible. It thus becomes obvious why spacing must be done in one direction as stated. This applies to all rectangular frames.

      FIG. 3. SKETCH OF CORNER FOR CANING.

      With a ³⁄₁₆ in. wood bit bore holes thru the rails and stiles at the points marked. Countersink the holes slightly on the underside of the frame. This is not absolutely necessary but aids considerably in locating the holes, and in other ways. In shops where power machinery is available a vertical borer may be used for this purpose. It is best to carefully mark the points for boring with a center punch. The twist bit will then start accurately and the danger for getting out of line will be reduced to a minimum. The dimensions given here are for fine-fine cane. Use sandpaper to