Seat Weaving. L. Day Perry
lines and rough edges left from boring; then clamp the frame over the edge of a table or bench with a carriage clamp; sit while doing the weaving.
The Seven Steps in Caning.—Fig. 4 shows the seven steps in caning. Refer to this photograph thruout the following directions. The numbers on the photograph refer to the steps.
FIG. 4. THE SEVEN STEPS IN CANING.
Step 1. A hank of cane should be soaked for a few minutes in warm water, or longer in cold. Do not soak it too long. Start a strand by drawing one end thru a hole next to a corner hole, and let it project about 3 in. below. Fasten with a peg. Then starting at the peg, pull the entire strand thru the thumb and forefinger to prevent twisting, and pull the end down thru the hole on the opposite parallel rail next to the corner hole, and then up thru the hole next to it. See that the right side of the cane is out on the underside of the frame as on the top. Pull the cane reasonably taut, and fasten with a peg to prevent the strand from slipping back and becoming loose. Draw the cane thru the thumb and forefinger again; pull it across the frame and down thru the hole next to the peg and up thru the hole next to it. Pull taut and fasten with the second peg. This operation is repeated until all holes have been utilized on the two parallel rails, except those on the corners. Thruout the seven operations it is necessary that the cane be kept from twisting by drawing the remaining part of the strand thro thumb and forefinger.
Step 2. The second step is identical with the first, with the difference that the other two parallel rails are used, and that the canes run over the first set of parallel canes. If the first strand of cane has not been entirely used up in the first step, the remainder is used to begin the second step.
FIG. 5. METHOD OF TYING ENDS OF CANE.
Step 3. This step is a repetition of the first two. The canes of this series run over the first and second series and parallel with the first. As each strand is used up bind the end by pulling it under a cane, crossing from one hole to another underneath the frame and cutting off about ¼ in. from the cane. Fig. 5 shows how this binding is done. The loose end at the starting point is tied in this way, and all subsequent ones should be tied as they come, thus avoiding interference by many pegs, and insuring neat binding.
Step 4. The actual weaving begins with this step. It may be done entirely by hand, without resort to the needle, but it is slow work. The needle should be used. Start at a hole next to a corner on either rail that has been used but once, working from caned side toward the open frame. Go over and under the strands necessary to form the weave, turning the needle from side to side in order to catch the canes behind the point. When across thread the needle with the strand and pull thru, being careful to avoid a twist. Pull the end down thru the hole, pairing the canes. Pull the cane up thru the next hole; then start the needle from the opposite side of the frame and repeat the first operation, thus pairing another set of canes. Continue until all canes are paired and all holes used. Soak the woven cane with a wet sponge, and with two pegs straighten the strands of cane and force all pairs together. Small, open squares are thus formed over the area being caned. Unless the cane is soaked it will prove rather difficult to pair the canes.
Step 5. This step is the weaving of one set of diagonals. Start the strand at any corner hole. Use one hand over and one under the frame. As the worker becomes skilful he will find it easier to give the cane a slight curve and work with both hands on the upper surface. Use an end of cane long enough for convenient handling; then pull the entire strand thru the length of the frame, provided the area is not too great. Care must be taken to avoid twisting the cane. The cane will run easily, and partially under a cane at the corners of the squares, if correctly done. Fig. 6 shows this clearly, as does the illustration in Fig. 27. The second illustration is a photograph of a strip of cane webbing, is approximately half size, and will supplement the freehand sketch. The corners will bind, and the strand will pull with difficulty if the cane is incorrectly woven. On parallel canes note that the canes either run over or under the pairs.
FIG. 6. FREEHAND SKETCH OF CANING.
Step 6. This step is identical with the preceding one. The canes are at right angles to the first diagonals. In this step and the preceding one note that two strands run into the corner holes. This holds true in all rectangular frames where a corner hole is bored. It permits the strands to run in as straight a line as possible. If it is necessary to turn abruptly to enter a hole it is obvious that an error has been made by the weaver.
Step 7. Pull a cane of the same size as used in the other steps up thru a hole, over the binder cane and down thru the same hole. A loop is thus formed and the binder secured. Pull taut, then enter the next hole, pull up the cane over the binder and down, and so on. This operation may be repeated at every other hole when the holes are close together. The two ends of the binder are finally overlapped and secured, and the operation thus completed. At times, when the last strands are woven, it may prove advisable to secure canes underneath the frame by plugging the necessary holes; at least in instances where the canes have a tendency to work loose.
SUGGESTIVE PROJECTS.
CHAPTER II
Caning Suggestions
As weaving progresses difficulty will be experienced in inserting cane ends in the holes, due to their becoming filled. Force the scratch awl thru and turn it several times. This will effectively force an opening.
In many instances long ends of cane remain from one series to another. These generally, as previously mentioned, should be used in succeeding steps. There is one limitation. They should be used provided it is not necessary to carry them over more than four holes on the under side of the frame. The fewer loose ends left, the better, for the caning is thereby neater and better. It is generally advisable to use a full length strand to avoid a number of loose ends.
The amateur will find his greatest difficulty in properly weaving the diagonals at the edges; that is, immediately upon entering or leaving a hole. Many commendable pieces of caning are spoiled by ragged, improperly woven edges. Care must be taken to see that the cane goes over and under the proper strand or strands at these points. Fig. 6 clearly shows how the diagonals should run. Study it carefully.
The addition of a binder is generally a matter of taste. Perhaps 50 per cent of modern hand caned furniture does not employ a binder of any description. The series of regularly exposed holes are rather pleasing and in no way detract. However, in chair seats a binder is essential to protect the ends of canes, for they are subject to hard wear.
Binders of reed or of wood called “splines” may be used on hand-caned frames. If either is used a groove ¼ in. deep and ³⁄16 in. wide is cut coincident with the holes before weaving is begun. After the area is caned the strips are fitted and glued in. Use little glue. Tap the splines firmly with a mallet used over a block of wood, until they are flush with the woven cane. Chapter IV gives the method in detail.
The size of the holes and the distance between them is determined largely by the size of the cane used. Some prefer coarse meshed areas, while others desire them closely woven. There is, however,