Hibiscus: Discover Fresh Flavours from West Africa with the Observer Rising Star of Food 2017. Lope Ariyo
SALAD
This is a really refreshing salad that’s so simple to put together. I’m always surprised by how flavourful it is considering it contains just a handful of ingredients. It’s the uncooked version of Bell Pepper Soup (Obe Ata) and is best eaten on a hot day or when you don’t particularly feel like slaving away at a stove. Nigerians don’t generally consider salads to be main meals, so I tend to serve this as a starter if I’m having guests over. If you’re looking for something a bit more filling, pair it with some flavoured rice or millet.
PREP TIME: 10 MINS
SERVES: 4 AS A STARTER
2 large red peppers, finely chopped
325g baby plum tomatoes, chopped
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped
4 celery sticks, chopped
4cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
groundnut oil, for drizzling
1/4 tsp crushed chilli flakes, or more to taste
salt and black pepper
In a large bowl, mix together the peppers, tomatoes, red onion, celery and ginger. Drizzle over the groundnut oil and toss gently to coat everything evenly. Add the chilli flakes and season to taste.
Divide the salad onto plates and serve.
At my boarding school in Nigeria, at the weekend we would go to the local swimming pool or track for sports before an afternoon siesta and a serving of fresh papaya or mango picked from the trees on campus. We never ate them in a fancy way – we weren’t given knives to cut the fruit into cubes. Instead, we would cup them in our hands, peel the skins back with our teeth and bite into the flesh. This salad reminds me of those times and is filled with some of my favourite leaves and vegetables to be found in Nigeria, one of which is atama. Here, it’s easiest to find in an African or Caribbean shop or online. However, with its distinctly liquorice flavour, tarragon makes the perfect substitute.
PREP TIME: 10 MINS
COOKING TIME: 5 MINS
SERVES: 4
2 tsp coconut oil
350g okra, chopped
1 small red onion, finely chopped
1 tbsp atama or tarragon, chopped
2 small mangoes or papayas
FOR THE DRESSING
6 tbsp coconut nectar or honey
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tsp crushed chilli flakes
First, make the dressing by whisking together the coconut nectar or honey, lemon juice and chilli flakes in a small bowl.
In a frying pan, heat the coconut oil over a medium–high heat until it melts and fry the okra for roughly 3 minutes. The okra should still have a slight crunch to it – if heated for too long, it will become soggy. Add the dressing, making sure the okra is evenly coated before setting aside to cool.
Put the onion and atama or tarragon leaves in a large bowl and toss thoroughly.
If using mango, remove the skin using a y-peeler, then cut the cheeks off, making sure to avoid the stone. Trim any extra flesh off the stone, then cut all the flesh into slices. If using papaya, cut it in half lengthways and deseed, then scoop out the flesh in chunks.
When you’re ready to serve, evenly distribute the onion mix between four plates and top with the fruit and okra. Drizzle the juices from frying the okra on top of the salad and dig in.
FROZEN WATERMELON AND CUCUMBER SALAD
Of course, most of the time it was hot in Nigeria, but on those really sweltering days, my grandma would buy watermelons and cucumbers to be chopped and frozen. It’s very rarely hot enough to warrant doing this in the UK, but on the occasions that I do make this salad, I’m instantly reminded of how deliciously refreshing these frozen treats were. A melon baller comes in handy for the recipe, but isn’t essential.
PREP TIME: 15 MINS PLUS FREEZING TIME
COOKING TIME: 10 MINS
SERVES: 4
1 small watermelon
2 cucumbers
50g egusi seeds
4cm piece of fresh ginger, peeled and grated
FOR THE GINGER DRESSING
3 tbsp groundnut oil
1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 tbsp coconut nectar or honey
2 tbsp rice milk
1 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp crushed chilli flakes
Cut the watermelon in half and remove the seeds. If you have one, use a melon baller to scoop out balls. If not, cut the melon in half once more and make several cuts along each quarter being careful not to go through the bark. Use a spoon to carve out the slices then, with a knife, cut them into smaller chunks and set aside. To prep the cucumbers, peel the skin off each and halve lengthways. Scoop out the seedy bits and chop both boats into thin slices.
Put the watermelon balls and cucumber slices on to two small baking trays and spread out so that none of the pieces are touching. Carefully wrap the trays in cling film and place in the freezer for 2–3 hours. If you’d prefer not to freeze them, simply put the trays in the fridge to chill for at least an hour and take out when the dressing is ready.
While you wait, make the dressing by whisking together the groundnut oil, lemon juice, coconut nectar or honey, rice milk, ground ginger and chilli flakes in a small bowl and set aside.
Lightly toast the egusi seeds in a small frying pan over a low heat for about 5 minutes, or until they turn golden and start to pop. Transfer to a small serving dish and set aside.
Once the watermelon and cucumber are frozen solid they will look like a sea of red and green crystals. Take out of the freezer, put them in a large bowl and toss through the grated ginger.
Share the salad evenly between four bowls and serve with the dressing and egusi seeds on the side. Allow everyone to drizzle over as much dressing as they desire and sprinkle over the egusi seeds.