Chevelle Restoration and Authenticity Guide 1970-1972. Dale McIntosh

       This tool can be used to remove the spindle dust cover, although a flat-bladed screwdriver will also work by simply walking it around the bearing cover. Using the dust cover tool works simply grabbing the cover behind the flange and wiggling it back and forth. Place the nut, washer, and cotter pin in the dust cap and then into a bag for safe keeping.

       Removing the Drum

      Remove the cotter pin by bending the tabs with pliers and pulling the pin with a pin puller tool or simply using a side cutter (dikes) and leverage the pin out from its hole. In rare cases, the pin may have rusted into the hole or break off and you will have to drill the damaged pieces out.

      After the pin is removed, gently remove the nut using either a socket or a crescent wrench. Using a gripping type of tool like channel-lock pliers may damage the surface of the nut and is not recommended. Now, simply wiggle the spindle flange, and the outer bearing will walk out onto the spindle. Take a paper towel, remove the bearing, and set it aside.

      While in this position, a trick for removing the inner bearing and seal (if you are replacing the bearing) is to put the nut back on the spindle, pull the drum out until the nut contacts the roller bearing, and give it a forceful tug toward you. The nut will force the bearing and seal from the back of the drum and spindle flange. It may require a few tugs before it separates itself. You can now remove the spindle flange/drum assembly.

       Bearing and Spindle Analysis

      Regardless of the type of restoration you are doing, it is recommended to clean and re-grease the inner and outer bearings. Based on the cost and the fact that you are this far into it, replacement of the bearings and seal makes more sense. If you choose to clean and reuse your bearings, you will still need to replace the inner seal on the backside of the drum and bearing hub.

      Before you decide to keep the bearings, clean them thoroughly and check for any roughness, expanded cages, missing bearings, etc. You will also want to clean the spindle and check for any blued, galled, or damaged areas where the bearing race rides as well as for bad threads on the shaft itself. Very minor damage can be massaged and cleaned up with emery cloth, but damage beyond that will require replacement of the spindle itself. If you can feel a groove in the spindle with your fingernail, chances are the damage is too severe and replacement of the spindle will be necessary. If the spindle is badly blued, it is also time to replace it. The bluing was caused by severe heat, and this can cause the spindle to become brittle and break.

      If you chose to replace the bearings and/or drum and bearing hub, you will also need to remove the bearing races in most cases; they should be matched to the bearings. Looking inside the drum mounting flange, you will see the backs of the bearing races with only a very small cutout area for a driver tool to reach the backside of the bearing race. Using a small brass drift and small hammer, very carefully drive the race out, tapping from side to side until the race falls out. Be very careful not to damage the surface the bearing race lays against. Flip the rotor over and repeat for the other bearing race.

       Carefully inspect the spindle for any damage to the threads or the bearing race surface as well as bluing. Minor damage can be repaired, but in a case such as this one where the bearing actually galled the bearing surface, it will need to be replaced.

       Using a brass drift inserted inside the bearing hub, place on the back side of the bearing race in the relief cut-out area within the hub. Gently tap this on both sides and remove the bearing race, being very careful not to damage the mating surface of the bearing race.

       Miscellaneous Suspension Removal

      Now that the flange is out of the way, take several photographs, paying particular attention to the location of the springs, their color, and their orientation. Also note that the brake adjusters are left- and right-handed and that the brake shoes have two different lengths of pads on them, which are better known as primary and secondary shoes. The shorter pad will always face the front of the car.

      Once you document these, you can proceed to remove the springs, shoes, brake hardware, and wheel cylinder. Start by removing the flexible brake hose at the rear of the backing plate. Remove the retainer clip and loosen the nut on either end of the flex hose where it meets the brake hard line on the frame. Always replace this flex hose with a new one. They become old and cracked and can be very brittle.

       Inspect all drum brake backing plates in the area of the pads where the brake shoes ride. If grooves are found, either weld and grind this area or replace the backing plate as these grooves will cause the shoes to hang up.

       Brake Tools

       It is best to purchase an assortment of brake tools or buy them in a kit form. They make doing brake work much easier, and there is less chance of damaging the tool, the part, or yourself. It will also speed up disassembly and reassembly.

      A variety of brake tools are available specifically for doing brake work. However, most standard tools in your toolbox will work just as well to remove the springs, hardware, wheel cylinder, and shoes. Once removed, place them all in a bag or a box and label them as to which wheel they came off of. You should now be left with a bare brake backing plate. Carefully inspect it for cracks or other defects. Pay close attention to the pads on the backing plate where the brake shoes ride. If there is a groove cut into these pads, either replace the backing plate or weld the groove and grind flat, as this will cause the shoes to hang up if left as is. At this point, you can either remove the backing plate or leave it attached to the spindle or axle flange. ■

      Sometimes heat will help remove the brake lines at the joints. However, be very careful as DOT 3 brake fluid is flammable and can catch fire as you loosen the joint. At the very least, it could be under pressure and will be extremely hot and will cause severe burns if it makes contact with your skin. Use of a propane torch is advised, as this will provide more than enough heat for your needs.

       Disc Brake Removal

      Much of the removal process for disc brakes is the same as the drum brakes with minor exceptions. Starting with the caliper, remove the flex line from the frame mount as before, then move on to the caliper side where the banjo bolt holds it to the caliper using a copper washer on either side of the line. Take caution because these lines are full of brake fluid and will damage paint if spilled.

      Look for and remove the two long internal 3/8-inch headed bolts that hold the caliper onto the caliper bracket. Loosen these until they no longer thread out, then pull them the rest of the way and set them aside. Check for damage or excessive wear at the head and along the shaft of the bolt and set them aside. The caliper is now free, but due to the piston being forced out against the brake pads, it may still not want to come off the caliper. Using a medium-size pry bar or large screwdriver, pry the caliper back and forth against the rotor face in an attempt to force the piston back, giving it more wiggle room to be removed from the rotor. Now, place the same tool between the outer race of the rotor and the caliper on both sides of the caliper bracket. Gently pry upward on both ends to pull the caliper up and away from the rotor. Once removed, the caliper assembly can be set in a drain pan until it has fully drained.

       Spindle Hub Removal

      Move on to the spindle hub. Remove the bearing dust

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