Chevelle Restoration and Authenticity Guide 1970-1972. Dale McIntosh
Before hiring a blaster or doing it yourself, get all of the heavy pieces together in one place and blast all at once to save on expenses. However, be ready to treat each piece of bare steel immediately after blasting, or flash rust may occur.
Powdercoating
Powdercoating will be covered more extensively later in this chapter as well as in the paint and body chapter. With that in mind, if you are going to powdercoat the frame and there are no repairs that are needed, now would be a good time—but only after acid washing the frame—to remove all oils, contaminants, and blasting residue. If your frame needs any amount of bodywork to repair pitting or other issues, powdercoating may not be the answer for you due to the high heat used in the baking process. However, you can do welding repairs prior to the coating. If you are not concerned about seeing those types of defects, then powdercoating is a much cheaper and quicker way to apply paint to your frame and is suggested for a daily driver car.
Regardless of your paint removal and application method, you must treat the metal within hours of blasting, otherwise flash rusting will begin. You also need to be careful to not allow contaminants onto the bare metal, as this can cause issues during the painting process. Even handling the bare metal with ungloved hands will allow contaminants in the metal. If you are able to keep the frame out of the elements or high humidity, you can begin any needed repairs to the frame, such as cracks, broken welds, bent rails or other areas, repairing mounting pads, etc. Once completed, the frame can be washed in an acid solution to remove all oils and other contaminants prior to priming it.
This frame was badly damaged in a frontal collision, and these impacts can telegraph rearward and cause the frame to get out of square. The cost to straighten it is likely more than what a donor frame would cost. Let your frame shop be the judge on what is salvageable.
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