Sultan's Kitchen. Ozcan Ozan
the spinach in a saucepan with 1 quart water and bring to a boil. Cook the spinach for 2 minutes, then drain it, squeezing out the excess liquid. Chop the spinach finely. Place it in a bowl and add the garlic, Turkish red pepper, olive oil, and thick yogurt spread. Season with salt. Stir the mixture gently with a wooden spoon, cover the bowl, and refrigerate for one hour. Garnish with paprika and olives. Serve with toasted pita bread.
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Ispanak Kavurma
Sautéed Spinach with Yogurt-Garlic Sauce
SERVES 4-6
This simple, colorful dish is especially good with grilled meat, or chicken.
1 1/2 pounds fresh spinach, washed and trimmed
1 tablespoon virgin olive oil
4 teaspoons clarified butter (page 7), divided
1 small Spanish onion, finely chopped (1/2 cup)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and diced (3/4 cup)
2 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons Turkish red pepper or ground red pepper, divided
2 teaspoons paprika, divided
1 recipe Yogurt-Garlic Sauce (page 13), to serve
In a large saucepan, bring 2 cups water to a boil and cook the spinach for about 2 minutes. Drain the spinach, reserving 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid. Squeeze out the excess liquid and chop the spinach finely.
Heat the oil and 2 teaspoons of the butter in a medium-size saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, and cook gently until it's softened but not brown, about 2 minutes. Add the spinach, garlic, tomato, salt, 1 teaspoon of the Turkish red pepper, and 1 teaspoon of the paprika. Stir in the reserved 1/2 cup spinach liquid, then remove the saucepan from the heat. Transfer this mixture to a serving plate and let it cool.
Pour the yogurt-garlic sauce over the cooled spinach mixture. Heat the remaining 2 teaspoons butter in a small saucepan, stir in the remaining Turkish red pepper and paprika. Drizzle this butter mixture over the yogurt-garlic sauce, and serve at once.
~ Rice-and-Herb-Stuffed Artichokes with Fava Beans and Olive Oil
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Zeytinyağlı Enginar Dolması
Rice-and - Herb - Stuffed Artichokes with Fava Beans and Olive Oil
SERVES 4-6
This recipe comes from my hometown of İzmir, but it is also prepared in the western and Mediterranean regions of Turkey. It is usually eaten in the summer when artichokes are harvested.
This dish can be cooked entirely on the stovetop, but finishing it in the oven allows it to cook more evenly. Traditionally, Turkish homes didn't have stoves, so people cooked dishes like these over a paraffin burner or in a brick oven.
1/4 cup flour
1/2 cup lemon juice, divided
6 medium or 12 small artichokes (about 2 1/2 pounds)
2 lemons, cut in half
2 large carrots
3/4 cup virgin olive oil, divided
1/2 cup short-grain rice
3 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped, some green parts included
1/2 cup finely chopped fresh dill, divided
1/2 cup finely chopped Italian parsley, divided
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 cup shelled fresh fava beans
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sprigs of fresh dill
Lemon wedges
To prepare the artichokes, mix the flour and 1/4 cup of the lemon juice with 2 quarts cold water in a large bowl. Cut off the stems so the artichokes can stand, and trim the bottoms. Remove any hard outer leaves, trim off tough upper edges, and scoop out the choke, scraping it out thoroughly. Rub the artichokes all over with the cut lemon halves and place the artichokes in the flour and water mixture to help prevent discoloration.
Cut and shape the carrots into 1 1/2-inch ovals, shaped like large olives (see photograph opposite).
Preheat the oven to 350°F. For the stuffing, heat 1/2 cup of the olive oil in a medium saucepan. Add the rice, scallions, 1/4 cup of the dill, 1/4 cup of the parsley, sugar, and 1 cup of the water, stirring to combine them. Bring the mixture to a boil, then lower the heat, cover the pan and cook over low heat for about 10 minutes, or until the water has been absorbed.
Remove the artichokes from the water and shake off the excess water. Stuff the artichokes with the rice mixture, pressing down gently to pack it in a bit. Do not overstuff them. Place them in a flameproof casserole dish upright, side by side.
Add the fava beans and carrots to the casserole dish. Pour over the remaining 1/4 cup olive oil, the remaining 1/4 cup lemon juice, 1 cup water, and the remaining dill and parsley. lay a crumpled piece of wet parchment paper directly on top of the artichokes, and weigh it down with an ovenproof dish (one small enough to fit inside the dish). On the stovetop, over medium heat, bring the liquid to a boil. Once it has boiled, cover the dish and move it to the oven. Cook gently for about 40- 45 minutes, or until most of the liquid has been absorbed and the artichokes are tender. Let the dish cool.
Transfer the artichokes with fava beans and carrots to a serving dish, spooning the cooking juices on top. Serve chilled or at room temperature. Garnish with sprigs of dill and lemon wedges.
NOTE. If fresh fava beans are unavailable, use fresh green peas.
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Tahanli Nohut Ezmesi (Humus)
Hummus (Pureed Chickpeas with Tahini)
SERVES 4-6
I developed this version of hummus myself. It was a "Hit of the Week" in the Boston Globe in 1986 and has been a favorite dish at Sultan's Kitchen for many years.
In the eastern part of Turkey hummus is served hot rather than cold. For a variation, serve it topped with roasted pine nuts or walnuts and with a drizzle of hot clarified butter mixed with some Turkish hot pepper.
1 1/2 cups dried chickpeas, soaked overnight (page 7)
2 teaspoons salt and a little more to season
3 garlic cloves, chopped
1/2 cup lemon juice
1/4 cup virgin olive oil
1/4 cup tahini
Sliced red onion
Assorted olives
Paprika
Toasted pita bread
Place the chickpeas in a medium-size saucepan with 2 1/2 cups of water and 2 teaspoons of salt. Bring the chickpeas to a boil, lower the heat, and bring to simmer for about 1 1/2 hours, or until they are tender. Add more water if it is absorbed too quickly. Drain the chickpeas and reserve 1/2 cup of the cooking liquid. Set aside.
In a food processor fitted with a metal blade, process the chickpeas, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil, and the reserved cooking liquid until the mixture is smooth. Season