Sultan's Kitchen. Ozcan Ozan
and sour flavor to dishes. Sumac is also often used as a table condiment and sprinkled over grilled meats, chicken, and salads. Turkish sumac is unrelated to the poisonous shrub.
SUZME YOGURT: Called torba yogurdu in Turkish, this yogurt has been left to drain so that it becomes thick and creamy. It is used to make herb-flavored spreads, and it is also used in cooking.
To make 2 cups of thick yogurt, take 6 cups plain yogurt, line a large sieve with a double layer of cheesecloth, place the sieve over a large bowl, pour the yogurt into the sieve, and let it drip. In 1 hour the yogurt will start to get thick. Let the yogurt drain, covered and refrigerated, in the sieve overnight to get a very thick consistency.
TAHINI: Made from ground sesame seeds, tahini comes in both light and dark varieties, the latter being made from roasted ground sesame seeds. In Turkish cooking, light tahini is used in making hummus. It comes in jars or cans and is sold in regular supermarkets, health food stores, and Middle Eastern supermarkets.
TOMATO: Always buy tomatoes that are firm and have bright red skin. Some recipes call for skinned and seeded tomatoes. I remove the skin by peeling them with a sharp paring knife. To skin a large quantity of tomatoes quickly, plunge them in boiling water for about 30 seconds, take them out with a slotted spoon and put them into ice water for 20 seconds. Take them out of the ice water and with a sharp paring knife, score the skin once near the top of the tomato—the skin will split. Peel off the skin of each tomato in strips and remove the stem by cutting in a cone shape around it. Pat the tomatoes dry, and if you are planning to use them in a cold dish, refrigerate them. To remove the seeds, cut the tomatoes in quarters and use your fingertips to scrape them out.
~ Turkish red pepper
TURKISH RED PEPPER, DRIED (KIRMIZI ACI BIBER): This ground or flaked red pepper is another seasoning, like garlic and onion, that has a special place in Turkish cuisine and is used in every kind of dish. It is slightly moist with a coarse texture and imparts aroma, heat, subtle pepper flavor, and a reddish color to dishes. Its flavor ranges from very hot, semihot, to mild and sweet, and it can be light red, dark red, purplish, and even black.
The best red peppers grown in southeastern Turkey near the cities of Mara§, Gaziantep, and Urfa, and the peppers of each area have a distinctive flavor and color. Urfa red peppers are roasted, and the pepper is black. In Mara§, the red peppers are crushed and rubbed with oil to impart flavors. The pepper is very aromatic and dark red. In Gaziantep the peppers are milder and lighter red.
The southeast of Turkey is known for its spicy dishes, and in other regions cooks simply use less pepper to produce milder variations. Don't be afraid to use Turkish red pepper because it's more flavorful than hot—more like the heat imparted by a good ground red pepper, which makes an acceptable substitute.
VANILLA CRYSTALS: Customarily used in Turkish cooking, this fine white powder has a stronger flavor and none of the alcohol found in vanilla extract. If you can't obtain it, use double the amount of vanilla extract instead.
SAUCES AND CONDIMENTS
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SAUCES IN TURKISH COOKING tend to be very simple and very fresh. Rarely is any sauce simmered for any length of time. Indeed, to preserve the freshness of tomatoes and herbs, sauces are usually made quickly just before a dish is served.
Ground pine nuts, garlic, olive oil, and lemon are combined to make Beyaz fistikli Tarator (page 13), a delicious cold sauce that accompanies grilled fish and seafood. Terbiye (page 15), an egg and lemon sauce with a creamy, velvety texture and tangy flavor, is served with stuffed vegetables and stuffed grape leaves. Plain yogurt or yogurt flavored with raw garlic, Saramiskli Yoğurt Sos (page 13), is served as a simple sauce for grilled meats and vegetables, pilafs, savory pastries, and as a topping for cooked Swiss chard or spinach.
The best sauces for salads are invariably based on a green, quality extra-virgin olive oil and a little lemon juice or vinegar—what changes are the herbs that season them.
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Zeytinyağlı Salata Sosu
Olive Oil and Lemon Sauce
MAKES 1/2 CUPS
1/2 cup lemon juice
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon dried or fresh oregano
1/3 cup coarsely chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves (optional)
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Combine the lemon juice, garlic, oregano, and parsley (if you're using it) in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. If the flavor is too strong, add a little cold water. Refrigerate the sauce for 20 minutes and whisk it just before serving.
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Yayla Salata Sosu
High Plateau Sauce
MAKES 1/2 CUPS
This sauce can also be served with cold cooked vegetables.
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 garlic cloves, minced
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint
1/3 cup lemon juice
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Combine the yogurt, garlic, mint, and lemon juice in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. If the flavor is too strong, add a little cold water. Refrigerate the sauce for about 20 minutes and whisk it just before serving.
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Zeytinyağlı Sirkeli Salata Sosu
Olive Oil and Red Wine Vinegar Sauce
MAKES 1 1/2 CUPS
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon dried oregano
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh Italian parsley
Combine the shallots, garlic, oregano, and red wine vinegar in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add the parsley. If the flavor is too strong, add a little cold water. Refrigerate the sauce for about 20 minutes and whisk it just before serving.
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Ege Salata Sosu Aegean Sauce MAKES 2 CUPS
1 bunch watercress, trimmed and finely chopped (about 1 cup)
1/2 cup white wine vinegar
1/3 cup finely chopped pitted green olives
1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces feta cheese, crumbled (1/2 cup)
To trim the watercress, remove the larger, bottom stems and keep the tender stems on the tip and the leaves.
Combine the watercress, white wine vinegar, and green olives in a small bowl. Slowly whisk in the olive oil. Season with salt and pepper. Add the feta cheese and stir well. If the flavor is too strong, add a little cold water. Refrigerate the sauce for 20 minutes and whisk it just before serving.