Sultan's Kitchen. Ozcan Ozan
Second Row: pine nuts, baharat, black caraway seeds, vanilla crystals
Third Row: whole and ground sumac, dried mint, Turkish red pepper (from Mara). red lentils
Fourth Row: ground cumin, Turkish red pepper (from Gaziantep), whole anise seeds
Because eggplants can have a bitter taste, it is a good idea to soak them before using them. This will also keep fried eggplant from absorbing too much oil. Place sliced eggplant in a bowl. Generously salt the slices, cover with cold water, and set aside for 30 minutes. Rinse the slices under cold running water, gently squeeze out the excess water, and pat them dry with paper towels.
FAVA BEANS (TAZE BAKLA): In summer, fresh young fava beans are cooked and simmered in olive oil and served with yogurt or Yogurt-Garlic Sauce (page 13). Older beans are shelled and cooked fresh. Dried fava beans are available year-round and come in two varieties: the large brown kind and the small light green or white ones, both of which need to be soaked before cooking. Fresh fava beans may be slightly difficult to obtain—they are also called broad beans and are usually available in the summertime, especially in Italian markets.
FETA CHEESE (BEYAZ PEYNIR): A semifirm cheese that crumbles easily, Turkish white cheese (the Greek version is feta cheese), is made from sheep's or goat's milk and then soaked in a brine mixture. Some white cheeses are softer or creamier than others, and the degree of saltiness can also vary considerably.
Before cooking with feta cheese, first rid it of some of its saltiness. Cut the cheese into chunks and soak it in warm water for about 20 minutes, changing the water several times. The best beyaz peynir in Turkey comes from northwestern Edirne.
(FILO YUFKA): This is the dough that is used in many classic Turkish pastries, including baklava. It is made of flour, eggs, and water, and is rolled out as thin as paper. To get homemade filo (see page 136) to its characteristic thinness, it is rolled out first with a large thick rolling pin called a merdane and then a very thin rolling pin called an oklava. In Turkey, filo dough comes in various thicknesses, with the thicker doughs used for böreks.
Filo dough can be bought fresh in Middle Eastern supermarkets and frozen in most other supermarkets. Each package contains twenty to twenty-two sheets of dough. Thick filo dough, called yufka, is available by mail order.
To use frozen filo dough, let it stand in the box at room temperature for about 6 hours, or let it thaw in the refrigerator overnight. Remove the dough from the package and thaw for another hour without unrolling it. Because filo is so thin, it dries out easily. Therefore, keep the dough covered with a damp cloth.
SHREDDED FILO DOUGH (KADAYIF OR KADAIFI): Kadayıf dough is made with flour, milk, and water. The batter is poured through a fine sieve onto a large, moving hot steel plate, thereby creating its characteristic long strings and slightly cooked texture. It is available either fresh or frozen.
To use frozen kadayıf dough, let it stand in the box at room temperature for about 6 hours; then remove it from the box and let it thaw for another hour. Alternatively, let it thaw in the refrigerator overnight, remove from the box, and thaw for another hour. Divide the shredded filo dough in half by holding it upright and pulling it apart. Place the dough on a dry surface and cover it with a damp cloth to prevent it from drying out.
FISH: It is important to use fresh fish for the best flavor. When buying whole fish, the eyes should be bright and clear, not clouded, and the gills should be bright red and open. Make sure the skin is shiny and the flesh is firm.
When buying fillets, check that the flesh is firm, not spongy. They should not have any ammonia smell. Swordfish steaks should be white to light pinkish and firm.
GRAPE LEAVES (ASMA YAPRAGI SALAMURASI): In Turkey, home cooks pick fresh grape leaves, which grow in the Aegean and Mediterranean regions of the country. After cleaning them, they blanch the leaves in water salted with sea salt. The leaves are then packed in a brine solution, in which they keep for as long as six months. Grape leaves are sold in most big supermarkets. look for one-pound jars containing about eighty leaves. Opened jars keep for as long as a year, stored in the refrigerator.
Before cooking them, unroll the grape leaves and boil them for 1 minute to help remove some of the brine.
KASSERI CHEESE (KASAR PEYNIRI): A semifirm cheese made from sheep's milk, kasseri is light yellow, very smooth, and elegant. It ranges from mild to sharp, in the same way that cheddar cheese does. In fact, a sharp cheddar makes an acceptable alternative. The best kasseri comes from the eastern Turkish town of Kars and the northwestern town of Edirne.
LAMB: lamb is the most popular meat in Turkey, and it is consumed in great quantities than chicken or beef. The best lamb is always the youngest you can get. When it is nine months to a year old, lamb is sold as mutton, and the flesh will be redder. Good lamb should have lightly rosy flesh and pure white fat around the edges. When buying it, look for smaller roasts-under six pounds with the bone in is best. (lamb is tastier when it is cooked with the bone in.) lamb from Australia and New Zealand is smaller and comes from younger animals than that sold in the United States.
MASTIC (SAKIZ): Mastic is a pale white resin from a small evergreen tree. People often chew it like chewing gum. It has a subtle flavor reminiscent of pine and is used to flavor puddings and ice creams. It is sold in small quantities in Middle Eastern supermarkets.
MINT LEAVES, DRIED (KURU NANE): Another important ingredient in Turkish cooking, dried mint is used far more widely than fresh mint. The dried ground mint sold in supermarkets lacks the fragrance and subtlety of the lightly crumbled imported leaves sold loose or in containers from Middle Eastern supermarkets.
OLIVE OIL: Olive oil is another of the staple ingredients in Turkish cuisine, and the four grades are used for different purposes. Olive oils vary in flavor, color, and aroma, depending on where the olives are grown, how the oil is processed, and the level of acidity.
Olives are delicate, and ideally they are hand-picked or are shaken from the trees and collected in nets spread underneath. The olives should be pressed within three days of harvesting because they grow more acidic if they sit too long. Traditionally the olives were crushed using huge round stones, but now it is done with mechanical presses.
Extra-virgin olive oil, the result of the first cold pressing of the olives, is the most expensive grade of oil and has an acidity of 0-1 percent. It ranges. in color from emerald green to olive, and its flavor is fruity. I use it for seasoning, marinades, dressings, and drizzled over salads and cooked food just before serving.
Virgin olive oil is also from the first cold pressing of the olives, and is semifruity with a more pronounced olive flavor. It is lighter green than extra-virgin, with acidity between 2 and 3 percent, and is a bit less expensive. I use virgin olive oil for cooking.
Olive oil is a blend of refined olive oil from the second press of the olives and virgin olive oil. It is yellow and has less flavor. You can use this oil in sauces, delicately seasoned soups, and for subtly flavored dishes.
Olive pomace oil, or light olive oil, is the lowest and least expensive grade of olive oil. It is light yellow and has only a little flavor. Pomace is what remains of the olives after the second press. The pomace oil is extracted using solvents and is then blended with virgin olive oil. I use this oil for frying and sautéing.
PINE NUTS OR PIGNOLI (BEYAZ FISTIK): These small pale yellow nuts taste best when they are lightly browned in butter or olive oil (depending on the recipe). The best pine nuts have an elongated, even shape and uniform color. They are used in pilafs, stuffings, stuffed vegetables (sarmalar and doimalar), and desserts.
ROSE WATER (GUL SUYU): Distilled from fragrant rose petals, rose water is used in Turkish cooking to flavor milk puddings, drinks, and syrups. It can be purchased by the bottle in specialty shops. look for pure rose water and be sure it is meant for culinary use rather than cosmetic use.
SEMOLINA (IRMIK): Made from durum wheat and sold in small boxes in supermarkets or in bulk in specialty stores, semolina comes in fine and coarse grinds.
SUMAK (SUMAK): These dried, crushed red berries give