Heavenly Fragrance. Carol Selva Selva Rajah
an appetite in eager anticipation of dinner. This is a mint that I choose when I want to impress my guests in a salad or spring roll. It is an unusual little herb that can go undetected until it is crushed and scattered over a salad or soup, when it can light up the palate and create wonderful combinations of aromas and tastes.
Fish for instance, when cooked with Vietnamese mint, can suddenly taste minty or peppery. Squid stuffed with Vietnamese mint and a very finely ground pork mixture changes the flavor of the squid. My laksa sauces are renowned for their flavor, and I believe the secret lies in their combination of onion, garlic and a bit of lemongrass with this quiet little herb. It is a plant that grows easily so anyone can have fresh Vietnamese mint on hand and it could be used in any culinary situation where mint is called for.
Purchasing: Look for dark green leaves in firm bunches with a fresh aroma. They should look plump and fresh, without any signs of bruising.
Culinary uses: Vietnamese mint is used in Vietnamese and Laotian table salads and in laksas, especially Penang Laksa. You should try some leaves in a ham or chicken sandwich or with boiled eggs mashed with a dash of home-made mayonnaise.
Preparation: Strip the leaves and tender stalks from the central stem before using.
Storing: Wrap in a damp paper towel and keep refrigerated in a plastic container. Place the stems in a glass of water and they will root easily, after which they can be planted in pots. A wilted bunch may be revived by soaking them in iced water.
Substitutes: Equal parts of mint and coriander leaves or Asian pennywort.
8 oz (250 g) fresh tuna or salmon fillets, poached and flaked with a fork
2 medium potatoes (8 oz/250 g), peeled, boiled and mashed
1 onion, finely diced
1 green onion, chopped
2 tablespoons minced curry leaves
1 teaspoon amchoor mango powder
1 teaspoon bottled sweet chili sauce
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground white pepper
3 eggs, lightly beaten
1/2 cup (125 ml) oil, for frying
1 egg white, beaten
1/2 cup (30 g) breadcrumbs
CURRY LEAF PESTO
1 cup (40 g) curry leaves
2 Asian shallots
2 cloves garlic
3 tablespoons dried unsweetened grated (desiccated) coconut
1 green finger-length chili, deseeded Salt, to taste
1/4 cup (60 ml) fresh lime juice, mixed with 1/4 cup (60 ml) water
1/4 cup (60 ml) oil
Salmon fish cakes with curry leaf pesto
The delicate flavor of salmon added to the tantalizing and assertive fragrance of cumin and amchoor green mango powder provide a rich and sensuous aroma. This is a refreshing new take on the ubiquitous crab cakes served around the world today. Serve them as an appetizer, a party food or as part of a meal. If you cannot get curry leaves for the Pesto, use coriander leaves or mint leaves instead—both are equally wonderful!
Prepare the Curry Leaf Pesto by processing all the ingredients to a smooth paste in a blender, adding the lime juice a little at a time, and adjusting the seasonings to your taste. Transfer to a serving bowl and set aside.
Combine the flaked fish and mashed potato in a mixing bowl. Add all the other ingredients except the eggs, oil and breadcrumbs, and mix well. Add the lightly-beaten eggs and mix until well blended.
To make the fish cakes, grease your hands with a little oil. Scoop 2 heaping tablespoons of the fish mixture and roll it into a ball, then flatten it slightly into a patty. Continue to make the fish cakes in the same manner until all the remaining fish mixture is used up.
Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat. Working in batches, dip the patties in the egg white then roll them in the breadcrumbs until well coated. When the oil is hot enough, fry the coated patties in the hot oil for 3–4 minutes, turning from time to time, until golden and crispy on both sides. Remove from the heat and drain on paper towels.
Arrange the fish cakes on a serving platter and serve hot with the Curry Leaf Pesto on the side.
MAKES: 20 cakes
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
COOKING TIME: 15 mins
8 fresh medium shrimp (7 oz/200 g)
8 dried rice paper wrappers, each 10 in (25 cm) across
8 lettuce leaves
7 oz (200 g) cooked roast beef, pork or chicken, thinly sliced
2 handfuls (4 oz/100 g) dried rice vermicelli, soaked in hot water until soft
8 (or more) garlic chives
CHILI LIME DIP
3 tablespoons hoisin sauce
1 tablespoon bottled sweet chili sauce
2 teaspoons fish sauce or soy sauce
3 tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 teaspoon chopped red finger-length chili pepper (optional)
Vietnamese rice paper rolls with chili lime dip
There are many versions of this popular Vietnamese dish. The simple rolls with lettuce leaf, roasted meat and shrimp inside is best made and served as soon as they are prepared. Use the freshest fillings and the best dried rice paper wrappers that you can find—available in Asian food stores in plastic packets of 10 sheets. It is well worth the effort.
Half-fill a saucepan with water and bring to a boil, then poach the shrimp for 1–2 minutes until pink or just cooked. Remove from the heat and drain, then peel and halve each shrimp. Divide the rice vermicelli into 8 equal portions.
To make the Rice Paper Rolls, briefly dip a rice paper wrapper in a bowl of water until soft, then place it on a dry work surface, smoothing it with your fingers. Place a lettuce leaf on the bottom third of the wrapper, top with several slices of roast meat and a portion of the rice vermicelli. Fold the bottom end of the rice paper over the filling, then fold in the sides and roll up tightly halfway. Place 2 shrimp halves, end to end, in the fold and continue rolling up firmly. Before reaching the end, place a garlic chive (or more if preferred) along the fold with one end protruding and then continue rolling up until the edges seal. Make all the rolls in the same manner with the remaining ingredients.
Combine the Chili Lime Dip ingredients in a serving bowl and mix well, adjusting the seasonings as desired. Arrange the Rice Paper Rolls on a serving platter and serve with the dip on the side.
MAKES: 8 rolls
PREPARATION TIME: 30 mins
COOKING TIME: 5 mins
3 sheets frozen puff pastry (9 1/2 in/24 cm), thawed
1 egg, beaten
SWEET POTATO FILLING
1 tablespoon oil
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2