Heavenly Fragrance. Carol Selva Selva Rajah
process 1 cup (40 g) of chopped fresh basil, 1/2 cup (125 ml) of olive oil, 2–3 cloves of garlic and 2 green finger-length chili peppers (deseeded) with 6 macadamia nuts in a food processor until smooth, then season with salt and pepper to taste. This Pesto may be used as a stir-fry starter with garlic and ginger, or added to a curry paste for an extra “bite,” or served as a dip with cheese and yogurt.
Preparation: Wash and dry the leaves well. Tender leaves can be used but separate the leaves from the harder stems.
Storing: Wrap the leaves (still on the stems) in paper towels and refrigerate in a covered container or sealed plastic bag for 2–3 days. If the stems droop, refresh them in ice cold water for a couple of hours before using.
Substitutes: European basil is a good substitute though it may not have as much bite and aroma as the Asian basil. And you may have to use more than the required amount or grind it for more aroma and flavor.
Banana leaves, flowers and stems ~
Every part of the banana plant can be used: the leaves, flower, fruit and stems. The banana leaf—dark green and about 3 feet (1 meter) long—grows like a long and wide palm leaf and is commonly used to cover or wrap foods in Asia. It has a light grassy and wax-like aroma that transfers to any food cooked in it and is used as the natural “aluminum foil” of the East. In Asian homes, banana leaf is a sensual steaming wrapper for rice, fish or meat smeared with some lemongrass, garlic and other herbs. The steaming cooks the food and imparts the subtle perfume of the light, grassy leaf which adds an unmatched aroma.
A common dish of rice cooked with coconut milk and garnished with curried shrimp, then folded and steamed in a banana leaf has an unmistakable perfume that is irresistable to the diner. The many aromas of this dish, called nasi lemak, coalesce to form an unforgettable moment of sensory indulgence. By contrast, the unopened male flower of the banana plant is a popular vegetable throughout tropical Asia, like a fragrant cabbage. It can be found in specialty stores outside Asia, particularly those stocking Vietnamese and Thai ingredients.
Purchasing: Both banana leaves and flowers are obtainable from Asian markets. Look for the leaves wrapped in large bundles. They are usually sold by weight, with the thick center ribs removed and the leaf portions folded. The flowers should be fresh and firm, without any wilting.
Culinary uses: Because of their natural wax content, banana leaves make ideal wrappers for food and are even used to provide a wax coating on irons, to make ironing easier! They are also used as decorations for the table and as plates. In Indian vegetarian homes and restaurants, banana leaves are the preferred service platters because no meat has previously touched them. According to Indian etiquette, the rib edge should be placed at the head of the table setting, away from the diner. After eating, the leaf is folded away to indicate that you have finished eating. If you fold it the other way it means you want a second helping. Cooked banana flowers are often made into salads in Southeast Asia. Blanched fine shreds can be added to dressings and soups, or simmered in seasoned coconut milk.
Preparation: Remove and discard the thick central rib of the banana leaf and use only the flat leafy part. Before using it to wrap food, blanch the leaf in a basin of boiling water for a few seconds or heat it directly over a flame to make it pliable for easy folding. A toothpick or skewer threaded through the end is often the only thing needed to hold wrapped parcels together. To prepare the banana flower, pull off the outer petals and the long, narrow yellow blossoms until the pinkish white inner heart is revealed. Then use the heart as instructed in the recipes.
Storing: The leaves and flower will keep in a loosely packed plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to 1 week.
Substitutes: Bamboo shoots or cabbage can be used in place of banana flower for a crunchy texture. A good substitute for wrapping purposes is lotus leaf or aluminum foil.
Coriander leaves ~ cilantro
The coriander leaf, almost mandatory in Asian cooking, has the most complex of herb flavors: it is spicy, citrusy with hints of lime, and almost pungent and curry-like, all at the same time. Fresh coriander leaves are invigorating— warm and minty in flavor and perfume—although the roots are peppery and bitter.
Someone not familiar with the aroma of coriander leaf may find it overpowering. When I was a child, we used it copiously in our home, but I would shy away from the aroma. The warm and minty herb reminded me of the stinkbug, and as I later found out, the name “coriandrum” indeed means stinkbugs, which perhaps explains the aversion I had to the herb!
It is a popular herb used in all types of Asian dishes, from soups to salads. It’s a useful herb to have in the garden and is readily available in both Eastern and Western markets since the Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Indian and Mexican cuisines all use it copiously. All parts of the coriander plant are used. The leaves are used as a garnish or in curries, the seeds are used in curry pastes in Creole and Mexican cooking, and the pungent roots are mainly ground into Thai curries. This was the original heat enhancer for “spicy” foods along with ginger and pepper before chili peppers came to Asia.
To sniff deeply of a coriander plant is a refreshing experience as the aromas of pepper and lime combine with the lingering aroma of aniseed. I have noticed that a simple steak cooked with a bit of garlic and onion is transformed into something special when a few coriander leaves are thrown into the pan just before the meat is done. The same goes for chicken dishes. There is a lightness in coriander leaves that lifts the meat. Yet when it is used with seafood, a different kind of aroma is produced, raising an awareness of lemon this time. Perhaps this happens unconsciously, as we often think of mixing lime and lemon with seafood. However when I add coriander stems, leaves and ground roots to a green shrimp curry, the final result always astonishes my guests.
Purchasing: Always buy the whole plants with roots attached, as they keep better that way. The leaves should be fresh and bright, not droopy, and the stems should be firm.
Culinary uses: Fresh leaves are often chopped and added to salads and fillings in Asia cuisines, or ground and added to spice pastes in Thailand, Laos and Cambodia. They are also commonly used as an edible garnish in soups and noodle dishes. To use the leaves, do not chop them unless you want the flavors to diffuse with the cooking. They are best added just before the end of the cooking as the leaves are the most pungent and flavorsome then. Try not to use the stems. When stems are ground into a curry, especially green curry, David Thompson refers to the result as “muddy.” The Thais use the roots in their curries because of its pungent peppery flavor.
A simple recipe for Coriander Leaf Pesto: Storing Process 2 cups (80 g) chopped coriander leaves, 1–2 deseeded green Asian finger-length chili peppers and 1 cup (100 g) grated coconut to a smooth paste in a food processor, then season with the juice of 1 lime and add sugar and salt to taste. Use it as you would a regular pesto, or turn it into a sauce for steamed or baked fish by adding some coconut milk to it.
Preparation: Wash and dry the leaves well, then use them either whole, chopped or ground, as instructed in the recipes.
Storing: Wrap the plants loosely in paper towels and store in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator. Store any leftover leaves or roots in the freezer in foil. To refresh a droopy plant, soak it in ice water before using. In a mild Mediterranean climate, it is possible to grow this herb in pots which can be picked fresh for your enjoyment as needed.
Substitutes: Dried coriander leaves do not have the wonderful flavor and aroma of fresh ones, although they can be used.
Curry leaves ~
A relative of the orange blossom, these leaves have a distinctive lemon-pepper fragrance with tinges of lime and ginger that may contribute to the impression that it is “curry-like.” It is today associated with South Indian and Southeast Asian curries, especially in combination with coriander, cumin, fennel, ginger and chili peppers.
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