An Edible Mosaic. Faith Gorsky
should be smooth and shiny, and feel heavy for its size. If it’s ripe, when you gently press a finger into it, the eggplant should give a bit but the indentation should spring back; if the flesh doesn’t spring back, it’s probably over-ripe and if it doesn’t give at all, it’s probably under-ripe. If eggplant is being roasted whole, such as for Roasted Eggplant Salad (page 44) or Eggplant Dip (page 64), it should not be peeled; other than that, peeling eggplant is based generally on personal preference. I usually peel larger ones and don’t peel smaller ones, but sometimes I partially peel them for a striped appearance. After peeling, slice the eggplant into about ¼ to ½-inch (6 mm to 1.25 cm) thick slices; salt both sides of each slice, place the eggplant in a colander, and put the colander in the sink for 30 minutes. During this time you will notice a brownish liquid seep out (this is normal), which will help reduce the eggplant’s bitterness. After that, rinse the eggplant under cold running water; gently wring it out, and then pat it dry. At this point, the eggplant can be deep or shallow-fried, or brushed with a little olive oil and grilled or broiled until golden on both sides. Prepared this way, eggplant is perfect for Fried Eggplant with Garlic and Parsley Dressing (page 53) or upside-Down Rice Casserole (page 114).
Cooking with Yogurt: Yogurt is often used to make wonderfully tangy, yet creamy soups like Lamb and Yogurt Soup (page 109) and sauces such as the sauce in Stuffed Squash in Yogurt Sauce (page 104). The only issue with cooking yogurt is that it has to be given a bit of extra care to prevent curdling. For starters, don’t use a fat-free yogurt, since a higher fat content helps prevent curdling; full fat is best but reduced-fat will also work. Making sure your yogurt is at room temperature when you’re ready to use it also helps. Use the amount of cornstarch and (sometimes) egg that are specified in each recipe, as these ingredients are added to both thicken and stabilize the yogurt. Lastly, yogurt should always be cooked gently (medium heat or lower is best), while being stirred constantly in one direction with a wooden spoon.
Frying Basics: Middle Eastern cooks don’t seem to shy away from deep or shallow frying, since many recipes— from Fried Eggplant with Garlic and Parsley Dressing (page 53) to Falafel (page 81) to Spicy Potatoes (page 57)— all contain fried components. If you follow proper frying procedures, food doesn’t absorb an excessive amount of oil; instead, you’re left with a crispy exterior and tender interior. When you fry, make sure to choose the right oil; in Middle Eastern cooking, good quality corn oil is typically used for frying, but any good oil with a high smoke point will work. The next point to consider is what vessel to fry in; if you’re deep-frying look for a large heavy-bottomed pot with deep sides (you can fill it up about one-third to one-half of the way with oil) and if you’re shallow-frying, a large skillet (preferably with a heavy bottom) will work (about ½ inch / 1.25 cm) of oil in the bottom of the skillet is usually perfect. Make sure the oil is up to temperature before adding the food; for most recipes, 350 to 375˚F (175 to 190˚C) is just right, and ensure your food is patted completely dry before adding it. When you (carefully) add the food, be sure not to overcrowd the pan. (this will drop the temperature too much, causing your food to be soggy and greasy.) when your food is cooked, transfer it immediately to a paper towel-lined plate to drain any excess oil; also, this is the best time to salt the food since it will be absorbed best (other than eggplant, which is salted before frying to reduce the bitterness; see Cooking Eggplant on page 11). A very useful tool for frying is the spider strainer (page 17) and also, something called a splatter guard, which is a circular mesh cover with a handle that is placed on pans when frying to prevent oil from spattering out. Of course, if you really don’t want to fry in the traditional way, “oven-frying” is also an option for most foods; in this method, foods are lightly coated in oil and cooked in a hot oven until crisp outside and soft inside. For a description of “oven-frying” as pertaining to cauliflower, see the recipe for Cauliflower Meat Sauce on page 110.
Hollowing Out Vegetables to Stuff: in Middle Eastern cuisine, about any vegetable is stuffed. A few favorites are tomatoes, small bell peppers, cabbage, grape leaves, small potatoes, baby eggplants, and marrow squashes (see Marrow Squash, page 120). If you can’t find marrow squash, zucchini is a good substitute; look for small zucchini, about 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm) long that are as straight as possible, which can be cut in half so that each half can be hollowed out. Cabbage and grape leaves don’t need to be hollowed out; they are simply rolled up tightly with stuffing. tomatoes and bell peppers are easy to hollow out: just cut off the top where the stem is and scoop the insides out. To hollow out potatoes, eggplant, and marrow squash (or zucchini), you will need a vegetable corer (page 17). For marrow squash, zucchini, or eggplant, trim off both the stem and blossom ends. Hold the fruit in one hand and insert a vegetable corer into the center, gently rotating the fruit so it turns around the corer; remove the corer, set the pulp aside, and continue gently scraping the inside of fruit; continue this way until you have a shell about ¼ inch (6 mm) thick. For potatoes, choose medium-sized vegetables and peel them before you start coring; core them the same way you would eggplant, zucchini, or marrow squash, but leave the shell about ½ inch (1.25 cm) thick. The insides that are scooped out can be added to soups, made into dips, or omelets like the Zucchini Fritters on page 65.
Making Middle Eastern Salads: Salads are a huge part of Middle Eastern cuisine, as some form of raw vegetable is typically present at every meal. For the smaller meals (breakfast and dinner), maza platters usually contain large pieces of vegetables that are picked up and eaten with your hands: whole leaves of crisp Romaine lettuce along with sliced or chunked cucumber and tomato, whole green onion, and quartered white onion. For lunch (the largest and most formal meal of the day), vegetables are usually chopped neatly into salads and eaten as is or spooned on top of rice (if rice is present in the meal). The signature of a Middle Eastern salad in general and a Syrian salad in particular is the precision with which the vegetables are cut. Before being chopped, vegetables are cleaned by soaking them in a large bowl of cold water with a splash of Apple Vinegar (page 26); after this they are rinsed and patted dry. Tomatoes, cucumbers, and white onions are cut into a perfect dice. Green onions (scallions) are thinly sliced and fresh parsley and/or mint are minced with razor-sharp paring knives. Lettuce and/or cabbage are finely shredded into little ribbons. A tart, refreshing dressing, such as the Lemony Mint Salad Dressing on page 28, is mixed and the salad is dressed at the last minute right before eating so the vegetables stay fresh and crisp. As you can imagine, this process can take a while, especially if you’re cooking for a crowd; this is why many women use large utility boards, often taking the board to the parlor or guest room with a group of women so she can talk with visiting ladies (neighbors, friends, and family are frequent daytime guests) as she works. Also, most salads can be made ahead; just chop all the veggies and toss them together as normal, but wait to add the dressing until right before you’re ready to serve the salad.
Making the Perfect Pot of Rice: I remember when making rice was the bane of my existence. After watching my mother-in-law make rice effortlessly, I picked up a few helpful tricks that ensure perfect rice every time. Before you start preparing the rice, get out a saucepan or pot, preferably with a thick bottom (or use a heat diffuser) for cooking the rice. Rinse the rice under running water to remove any talc or excess starch; this will result in fluffier rice. After rinsing, soak the rice for 10 minutes; this makes the rice less brittle so it’s less likely to break while cooking, shortens the cooking time, and lets the rice—particularly basmati—expand to its full length. While the rice is soaking, put half a kettle of water on to boil. Drain the rice well after soaking, and then it’s ready to be toasted. Toast the rice in a little oil or clarified butter in the pot that you’re going to cook it in; it will start to smell amazingly nutty at this point. Add water. The exact amount of water you’ll need depends on a few different factors, including how old the rice is, the starch content (including how long the rice was rinsed for), how the rice was harvested and processed, the type of cooking vessel you’re cooking it in, the lid you’re using, temperature,