An Edible Mosaic. Faith Gorsky
cheese is halloumi, a salty, firm, brined cheese that squeaks when chewed. It has a high melting point, which makes it good for frying or grilling in recipes like Pan- Seared white Cheese (page 68). Ackawi, which comes from Acre, Palestine, is a salty, semi-firm, smooth cheese that melts similarly to mozzarella. After soaking in water to remove the salty flavor, this cheese becomes significantly softer; it is commonly used as table cheese. Nabulsi originated in nablus, Palestine, and is a salty, semi-firm, brined cheese made by boiling Ackawi either with or without other spices and flavorings; nigella seeds are frequently used. Nabulsi is typically used to make Sweet Cheese Pastry (page 122). It can be used almost interchangeably with halloumi in savory dishes. Shellal is a salty, stringy Syrian cheese that this made of cheese strands twisted together; it also melts similarly to mozzarella. It is quite common to find Shellal with nigella seeds woven in with the cheese strands. Beladi is a soft, mildly tangy cheese that is typically made of goat milk; my favorite substitute for this cheese is farmer’s cheese made from goat milk, if available. A recipe for Yogurt Cheese is found on page 73 and Spiced Cheese Balls is on page 69.
Mint (Naa’na): A bright-flavored herb commonly used in Middle Eastern cuisine. Both fresh and dried mint is used in various salad, soup, and sauce (particularly, yogurt-based sauces) recipes, and as garnishes. Mint is frequently steeped with tea and made into an elixir to drink after a large meal, as it is said to relieve indigestion.
Nigella Seeds (Habbat al Barakeh): Also called black seeds, their name literally translates to “the blessed seed.” nigella seeds are small and black, with a three dimensional, teardrop-like shape. They’re related to buttercups, and they take their name from the lovely-named Nigella sativa plant that they come from. They are revered medicinally in islam, and it is said that the Prophet Mohammed (peace be upon him) once stated that black seeds are “a remedy for all diseases except death.” nigella seeds have an interesting flavor—peppery, nutty, smoky, slightly bitter, and strangely, a little bit like oregano. They are a common addition to cheeses, breads, and pastries.
Orange Blossom Water (Ma’ al Zaher): Also called orange flower water or just flower water, this clear liquid is distilled water made from orange blossoms. It is slightly bitter and very fragrant; to me, it smells like Damascus itself. It is used judiciously along with rose blossom water to flavor sweets and less frequently, savory dishes. It is the main flavoring in Scented Sugar Syrup (page 28) and white Coffee (page 139).
Persian Cucumber (Khiear): Small and slender cucumbers with very few seeds and a subtly sweet flavor. They are perfect for dicing up for salads or slicing up for maza platters. If you can’t find them, you can use any other small cucumber you can find (such as Lebanese or Japanese); or use English cucumber instead (1 English cucumber equals approximately 3 to 4 Persian cucumbers).
Pine Nuts (Snobar): the edible seeds found beneath the scales of pinecones from certain varieties of pine trees. In Middle Eastern cuisine, longer, oval shaped pine nuts are preferred over the shorter, more round variety. Pine nuts are ivory colored with a soft, almost buttery texture and a nutty, mildly piney flavor. They are frequently toasted in a bit of clarified butter or olive oil and used as a garnish for rice dishes; they have a tendency to burn easily, so when toasting them, be sure to keep the heat low, stir frequently, and don’t walk away from them. Due to their high oil content, it’s best to store pine nuts in the freezer.
Pomegranate Molasses (Dibis Rouman): Pomegranate juice that has been reduced to thick brownish-reddish syrup. It has a very concentrated tangy, sweet/tart flavor and is frequently used in savory dishes, such as Bell Pepper walnut Dip (page 72) and Meat and Vegetable Casserole with Pomegranate (page 103). Also, spread a little on a falafel sandwich and you’ll have everyone wondering about your delicious secret ingredient. If you can’t find pomegranate molasses, you can easily make it by simmering 4 cups (1 liter) of pomegranate juice over medium heat until it’s reduced to ½ cup (125 ml), then store in your refrigerator.
Purslane (Baqli): Also called lamb’s lettuce, lamb’s tongue, or mâché, the leaves of this leafy green vegetable look like little lamb’s tongues and grow in clusters. Its extensive root system allows it to thrive in poor soils and dry conditions (it’s because of this that purslane is often thought of as a weed by those who aren’t familiar with it). Purslane is prized in Middle Eastern cuisine for its delicious, slightly nutty flavor with a hint of bitterness. It’s a favorite ingredient in herb Salad with tangy Dressing and Croutons (page 48).
Roasted Green Wheat (Freekeh): this ancient grain is green wheat that is harvested young, sun-dried, and then fire-roasted. It has a very unique nutty, smoky flavor that is delicious in dishes like Roasted Green wheat with Chicken (page 89). When purchasing, look for coarsely cracked green wheat that smells deeply smoky and is greenish-brown in color.
Rose Water (Ma’ al Ward): this clear liquid is distilled water made from rose petals. Similar to orange blossom water, it is slightly bitter and very fragrant. It is used sparingly, usually in conjunction with orange blossom water, to flavor sweets and sometimes savory dishes. Along with orange blossom water, it is the main flavoring in Rose and Orange Blossom-Scented Milk Pudding (page 127).
Saffron (Zafaran): this spice is the stigmas of the Crocus sativus flower; it can be found in whole threads or ground, but using whole threads is preferred. Saffron has a bittersweet, earthy flavor and should be used sparingly, as using too much may cause a dish to turn overly bitter or metallic. Saffron is deep red in color and gives a lovely golden hue to dishes such as Saffron Rice with Golden Raisins and Pine nuts (page 61). Turmeric can be substituted to achieve a similar color; however, it will not yield the same flavor.
Semolina (Smeed): Coarse or fine-ground durum wheat. It is commonly used to make custard-like dishes, such as Lebanese nights (page 121). It is also used to give a rustic texture to cakes (see Coconut Semolina Cake, page 130), and a crumbly, coarse texture to cookies.
Shredded Phyllo Dough (Kataifi): Phyllo dough that is shredded into thin, vermicelli-like strands. It gives a dish great texture, since it becomes crisp once cooked. In Middle Eastern cuisine, kataifi is commonly shaped into cigars, cones, cups, or nests, and used as the basis for sweets; it is also used to make Sweet Cheese Pastry (page 122). Kataifi is most commonly found frozen; once you’re ready to use it, let it thaw in the fridge overnight and then let it come to room temperature for about an hour before working with it (keep it in its package while thawing so it doesn’t dry out). If you’re making Knafeh bil Jiben you don’t have to take as much care with your kataifi, since it will be crushed anyway. However, if you want to shape the dough to make small sweets it should be handled similarly to phyllo dough so it doesn’t dry out. When you’re ready to use it, lay a piece of plastic wrap on a large baking sheet, then unwrap the kataifi, place it on the prepared sheet, and cover with another piece of plastic wrap. Then lay a towel that has been slightly dampened on top to help keep the dough chilled while you’re working with it.
Sour Black Cherry Pits (Mahlab): A beautifully scented spice that is the dried kernel from sour black cherry pits. The whole kernels are small (about 5 mm long), tear-shaped, and tan colored, but mahlab is also commonly found ground. It smells of cherries and almonds and is slightly sweet, but with