Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. Allen Fyffe
Patey, J McArtney and J Cleare, February 1967
The gully between the main part of the buttress and Fingers Ridge is good to start, then the upper section is wide and straightforward. Start from the top of the first bay right of the lowest rock. Climb steeply up and right until it is possible to go left by a short wide crack onto the top of a slabby pillar near the top of the pitch. Move left into the main funnel-shaped upper gully, which is easy and offers a choice of lines. The Left-Hand Start climbs directly into the upper gully by a narrower fault and is generally harder, but needs ice.
| Fingers Ridge | 140m IV,4** |
JR Dempster and J Wallace, 19 January 1969
The slabby ridge between Broken and Red Gullies has two prominent pinnacles high up where the buttress narrows. It is a popular route, although the upper part of the ridge has some loose blocks and is best avoided in thaw conditions. Start just at the foot of Red Gully and go diagonally left for a pitch to a good ledge by a short deep corner on the left side of the buttress. From the left side of the ledge climb the blunt rib very close to Broken Gully, trend right and climb a flake to gain the obvious open groove. Climb the right-facing groove (escape in to Broken Gully is possible here), then the pinnacled ridge to a narrow col, then to the top. The short wall at the end of the col may be the crux if climbed direct, but can be avoided on either side.
Broken Fingers, 135m, III,4, starts up Broken Gully but follows the fault all the way to finish up Fingers Ridge and is a worthwhile variation.
| Red Gully | 120m II/III** |
The gully on the right of Fingers Ridge is narrow, well defined at the bottom and often very busy. Climb the initial chimney, usually on ice, then follow the funnel-shaped upper gully to finish. Again, in thaw conditions the blocky nature of the upper gully can provide a serious rock-fall danger.
Topping out on Fingers Ridge (photo: Rik Higham)
| Western Rib | 120m II/III |
The rib on the right of Red Gully is usually gained from above the mushroom-shaped pinnacles a pitch up Goat Track Gully. Climb the blocky and escapable broad rib to the top. It is sometimes possible to climb the rib all the way from the bottom if icy.
| Goat Track Gully | 120m II* |
Starts close to Red Gully and slants right below a big vertical left wall. At the steep section climb the right corner, which can be awkward but well protected if bare of ice. Above the gully is less defined and open to variation.
Fiacaill Buttress
NH 989 029 Altitude 1060m North-east facing
This lies high on the right of the corrie flanking the Fiacaill Ridge, which itself gives a pleasant route of Grade I–II, depending on the line taken. The Fiacaill Couloir, which is hidden from many angles, slants up leftwards, dividing the buttress into two contrasting parts. The left section is split by the midway ledge, above which are some prominent, slabby ramps. The right section is more blocky, with several large vertical features and obvious snow ramps. As the highest cliff in the corrie it may be in condition when other buttresses are not, and can also be sheltered from westerlies. However, the open lower approach slopes can be avalanche prone.
The following three routes finish on the midway ledge. Therefore they can be a good choice for a short day or in windy conditions.
| Escapologist | 55m IV,6 |
G Ettle and J Lyall, 10 March 1992
Start 8m left of the main left-slanting groove of Houdini. Slant up left before moving right over a slab to an obvious ledge. Climb up left to a large block (30m). Stretch (or jump) from the top of the block to reach turf and continue up a corner and easier continuation to the terrace (25m).
Fiacaill Couloir from above
A busy day in the Northern Corries
| Straight to Jail | 50m V,5* |
D Jarvis and B Ottewell, April 1996
The steep groove above the start of Escapologist. Follow Escapologist to above the obvious ledge. Move right to gain a steep groove and climb this to the midway ledge. Needs good ice to be at this grade.
| Men in Black | 50m VI,8 |
G Ettle and M Garthwaite, 31 January 1998
This climb takes the wide corner crack left of Houdini to finish on the midway ledge. Start up Escapologist for 10m, then move right to a left-facing corner crack (15m). Climb the wide crack past two essential chokestones to easier climbing and a good ledge (15m). Move right into Houdini – there is a wide crack splitting the wall on the right, and the route climbs the thinner crack on its left to the ledge (20m).
| Houdini | 160m VI,7** |
A Cunningham and A Fyffe, February 1990
An intricate but excellent line up the left face. Start in the middle of the lower tier and climb the main left-slanting groove, then trend left to the midway ledge. Climb a short wide corner to a big ledge with flakes and traverse delicately right to gain ramps, which are followed a short way to reach the left side of a big block. Go right and climb the groove/ramp going right, and above the chokestone head up by thin climbing to below the final wall. Climb this wall by going left into a niche then up to gain the step.
| Stirling Bomber | 55m V,7** |
A Cunningham and A Fyffe, 4 January 1990
The obvious right-facing crack and chimney line on the lower buttress give a good but unusual climb finishing on the midway ledge. Start right of the chimney and climb up and left to gain and follow the flake crack into the chimney. Climb the chimney, which gradually widens (difficulty can be height dependent) and curves over to form a roof, above which a ramp is gained and followed to the midway ledge.
| Jailbreak | 110m VII,7* |
A Fyffe and A Liddell, 31 January 1986
Takes the obvious ramp leading to the midway ledge, and then has a serious and intricate pitch leading to the more featured upper part of the buttress. Start about 15m left of Fiacaill Couloir and climb the stepped ramp to the ledge. Go left about 10m and climb up and right until moves left lead to short groove-cum-ramps running right (this is fairly direct and shares some of the upper part with Houdini). At their top, move left to the right side of a large block (Houdini also belays here then goes rightwards.) Climb the obvious ramps and corners above to below the vertical top wall. Move right of the obvious chimney (this is the final pitch of Fiacaill Buttress, which can be used to give an easier finish). Climb this diagonally left via a niche to finish by the step in the top wall (as for Houdini).
Fiacaill Couloir
| Smokestack Lightnin’ | 100m VI,7* |
A Cunningham and A Fyffe, 16 February 1990
A fine but