Winter Climbs in the Cairngorms. Allen Fyffe
using the avalanche report it is worth noting the date and time of issue, as the hazard is quoted for the day of issue and reflects the existing conditions. The avalanche outlook for the following day is also given, but this is dependent on the weather forecast. If this forecast is not accurate, then the avalanche forecast itself may be inaccurate. Having an avalanche information service forecast does not absolve climbers of responsibility for making their own decisions and assessment of the avalanche hazard.
Mountain Rescue
Mountain rescue teams are made up of experienced and skilful local mountaineers who undergo regular training in mountaineering and remote-care first aid skills. Rescues are co-ordinated by the police, who should be contacted by telephone on 999 in case of an accident or possible problem.
A direct line to the Aviemore or Braemar police stations may be quicker, and the numbers are as follows.
Aviemore police 01479 810 222
Deeside police 08456 005 700
The rescue organisations will require concise information about the incident, such as the name of the climb, the location, a map reference if possible, the number injured, the nature of the injuries, how they are equipped and if anyone is with the casualty. If there are only two in the party and it is not possible to contact the mountain rescue teams or attract anyone else either by shouting, whistle or torch-light, it is a difficult decision whether to go for help or stay. This will depend on the nature of injuries, the location, weather, equipment and perhaps other considerations. If the casualty is unconscious, then this decision is even more difficult. If you do go for help, make sure that the casualty is as well equipped and as comfortable as possible, and in the most sheltered and well-marked location that you can find or create.
There is a first aid box in the corrie of Lochnagar on a small flattening midway between the loch and Central Buttress. Likewise there is one in Coire an t-Sneachda near the triangular boulder by the lochans, but the contents of these boxes are likely to vary. Both these locations are favourite gearing-up spots.
CAIRNGORMS NORTH
Pete Macpherson on the superb first pitch of The Inquisition in Coire an Lochain (photo: John Lyall)
COIRE AN T-SNEACHDA
NH 994 033
This is the most accessible of the climbing corries in this area. A somewhat broken and sprawling set of buttresses ringed round the corrie edge. Of the Northern Corries of Cairn Gorm this contains the widest selection of good low-grade winter routes, and as such is the most popular of all the cliffs, especially at peak holiday times, when it can be worth avoiding. However, there is a good selection of routes of all grades and of most styles of climbing. There should be something climbable most of the winter season, and some of the rockier routes come into condition very quickly.
On the far left of the corrie is The Mess of Pottage, with the straight gash of Jacob’s Ladder on its right flank. Next is an area of broken ground, and in the centre of the corrie is Aladdin’s Buttress, which is defined on its left by the big dog-leg gully of Aladdin’s Couloir. This buttress actually consists of a lower dome-shaped mass of rock with more broken ground above. Here are a number of ridges, the right-most one, Pygmy Ridge, being the most obvious. Next is Fluted Buttress, which gives the longest routes in the corrie and merges into Aladdin’s Buttress, and it is cut by a number of gullies and faults. On its right side it runs into the snow slopes of the Goat Track, the wide slope leading to the col at the head of Coire Domhain. Last is the Fiacaill Buttress, which lies in a subsidiary part of the corrie high on the right and forms the side of the Fiacaill a’Choire an t-Sneachda, usually just referred to as the Fiacaill Ridge, which separates this corrie from the Coire an Lochain.
Approaches
From the car park in Coire Cas follow the good path heading first west then south round the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais for several hundred metres to a junction, then take the left fork into the corrie. This path is not marked on some older maps. The right fork continues to Coire an Lochain. Follow the path south into the corrie, where it peters out at the start of the boulder field, and go on to the small lochans below the centre of the cliff. It is unusual if there is not a track in the snow, even when the path is buried. A less obvious alternative is to go from the car park to the White Lady Shieling, then follow the track which zig-zags up Coire Cas until the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais can be crossed and a slightly diagonal line taken down into the corrie.
Descents
From the top of the climbs the usual descent is to follow the plateau rim round to descend the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais into Coire Cas and so to the car park. The Goat Track, the slope west of Fluted Buttress, gives a steep but convenient return to the corrie floor, but can be an avalanche risk. For climbs on the left of the corrie it is possible to descend from the col east of The Mess of Pottage and go down diagonally below that buttress. For climbs on the Fiacaill Buttress, the Fiacaill Ridge or the Goat Track give convenient descents.
No Blue Skies living up to its name (photo: Henning Wackerage)
In thick and misty conditions it may be difficult to identify some of the climbs, but from the first aid box just south of the lochans, the magnetic bearings to some of the main gullies are as follows.
Aladdin’s Couloir 110°
Aladdin’s Mirror 145°
Trident Gullies 184°
Goat Track Gully 222°
Fiacaill Couloir 242°
Conditions
This is a high, accessible, north-facing corrie whose buttress routes come into condition very quickly; the easier gullies do not take much longer to form either. However, the ice development mostly depends on freeze–thaw and snow-melt, so takes longer to come into condition. Because of the popularity of this corrie many routes are becoming harder as vegetation is destroyed, especially by ascents in lean or thawing conditions. However, this can mean that the route is well marked with crampon and tool placements. There can be some serious rock-fall danger in thaw conditions, particularly in the area of Fingers Ridge and Red Gully.
In windy conditions, especially with westerlies, the top of the cliffs, especially The Mess of Pottage, can be very exposed. The Fiacaill Buttress is much more sheltered then, but the approach slopes can have dangerous slab build-up in these conditions. With a northerly airstream these cliffs are often shrouded in cloud.
The Mess of Pottage
NH 998 032 Altitude 1060m North-west facing
The left-most buttress; the main section is seamed with cracks and corners, while the right side is slabby low down and easy angled above. In the centre of the main section a big stepped fault slants up slightly left and is used by several routes.
| The Opening Break | 100m IV,5 |
A Cunningham and A Fyffe, November 1990
The obvious left-facing corner on the left of the buttress – low in the grade. Start below the corner and climb cracks up the initial slabby steps, with a detour right then back left at the first bulge. Climb the corner, which can be icy. Above, go right to easy ground and follow a fault up left below a steeper wall until twin cracks lead to more easy ground and the top. It is possible to avoid the first pitch and the crux by slanting in rightwards to the corner from higher up, making it a Grade III.
| Honeypot | 90m IV,6** |
J Lyall and M Sclater, 25 March 1989
Lies near the left edge of the buttress and takes