Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 2 - Central and Eastern Alps. Bill O'Connor

       Skis – I prefer medium stiffness all-terrain skis with a wideish tip (circa 110) and a reasonable amount of side-cut offering a relatively short radius turn of about 20–22m. Wide, short and light seems to be the way to go.

       Touring binding – I currently use the Fritschi Diamir binding, as they offer great performance and ease of use. There are others available, and those wishing to go very lightweight should look at Dynafit Tourlite bindings. I like to have ski stops fitted and to carry safety straps.

       Harscheisen – removable crampons for your skis. They are usually specific to a given binding. It is possible to get by without them, but on icy mornings and for hard snow they save time and energy and increase safety. I always carry them.

       Skins – I prefer stick-on skins with a toe and tail attachment. If you change to fatter skis you should also change your skins for optimum climbing performance. You can buy skins custom shaped to fit carving-style skis. Make sure you have a stuff-bag to carry them in, and ensure you keep them clean and sticky.

       Ski poles – with powder baskets. I prefer one-piece poles, but two- or three-section poles are OK and pack away easily.

       Ski mountaineering boots – these should have a full climbing sole. Whatever boots you get they need to be comfortable for hiking on skis. I use Scarpa Denali, which although not the lightest on the market offer a high level of performance as a ski boot yet remain comfortable for walking. Blisters and sore feet are a common problem on ski tours. Normal downhill boots are not suitable for the tours in this guidebook.

       Custom liners – these provide optimum fit and performance if fitted correctly. I use them for ski touring.

       Custom footbeds – correctly fitted, they offer optimum comfort and performance. Most boots are supplied with relatively poor quality footbeds as standard.

       Rucksack – 45–60 litre with waistbelt and side attachments for carrying skis. Get a sack that holds all you intend to carry. Try not to have much attached to the outside apart from skis, ice axe and possibly a shovel – the risk of loosing things, especially in a fall is high.

       Water bottle/Thermos flask/hydration system – 1 litre minimum. If you opt for a hydration system ensure that the tube is insulated against cold, as they have a tendency to freeze up, leaving you high and dry!

       Mountaineering harness – this should be large enough to fit over shell clothing and, ideally, have fully adjustable leg loops. Some skiers like a full body harness, but I feel the disadvantages outweigh the benefits. With a modern sit-harness, inverting in a crevasse fall whilst carrying a rucksack is unlikely, especially when wearing skis.

       Lightweight headtorch – plus batteries and spare bulb. I use an LED-style headtorch, which is light and energy efficient.

       Ice axe – this should be suitable for self-arrest, belaying and whatever climbing the tour involves. Many lightweight axes are unsuitable for belaying and climbing but are ideal for self-arrest and ski races. You don't need a technical ice tool.

       Crampons – that fit your ski boots. Clip-on variety are ideal. Once again, choose crampons that suit the route. Many aluminum models, although lightweight and suitable for walking on snowy slopes, are unsuitable for climbing or hard snow, ice or mixed conditons.

       Ski/mountaineering sun glasses – high quality sunglasses that provide protection from light reflected off snow and are suitable for altitude.

       Ski goggles – essential in poor conditions to provide full cover from wind-blown snow and ice particles.

       Sunscreen with high factor (20+).

       Lip cream.