Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 2 - Central and Eastern Alps. Bill O'Connor

Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 2 - Central and Eastern Alps

you to pre-empt problems. Is it a known route or exploration? Study the map carefully. Identify difficulties. Pre-empt problems. Don't assume a summer route is also the ski route. How difficult is the tour likely to be? Identify the specific difficulties/dangers. Does your party have the skill and fitness to handle the challenges? Be properly equiped What equipment is required for individuals and the group? Do you have it and can you use it? Can you repair it in an emergency? Season and conditions When is the best time of year for the tour? What effect will elevation and slope aspect have? How will these affect timing on the route? Being in the right place at the right time is often critical. Weather/snow conditions – past, present and future What have past weather conditions been? How have factors such as wind, precipitation and temperature affected the snow pack? What are the present conditions and what is forecast for the future? Know what causes avalanches Put snow and slopes together and the potential for avalanches exists. Learn about avalanche phenomena and the factors that contribute to avalanches. Snow stability How will poor weather and snow stability affect your options? Will you have route options or are you committed? Gather information about the snowpack from Guides offices, pisteurs, avalanche bulletins, personal tests. Huts Are there huts and are they open/wardened? If not, is the tour viable? Book accommodation in advance. Contingency plans What escape routes are possible once on tour? What alternatives exist in poor weather or dangerous snow conditions? Emergency proceedures Have information and a procedure in place relative to area of operation. Communications. Allow for the unexpected.

SAFETY STRATEGY ON TOUR

Equipment check	Ensure that you have all the equipment you need, that it works and is in order. Decide who carries what. First aid, repair kit, rope/s. What effect does this have on party organisation?
Make use of vantage points en-route	Take full advantage of spying out the route ahead and observing conditions and difficulties etc. Routes planned earlier may have to change in the light of new views and snow conditions.
Stay observent Gather information	Don't be afraid to ask hut wardens/guides and local experts for information. Stay alert. Take time to think about conditions and safety.
Effect of wind	Be observant. Look for the effects of wind. Cornices, slabs, drifting. How will it effect your route?
Avalanche activity	Be observant. Note old and new slides. What aspects and altitude as well as type. What affect will they have?
Hazards	Check out the route for unavoidable difficulties. What's the best option/route to overcome them?
Unseen hazards Terrain traps	Ensure that the route is not threatened from above or below by unseen/unnoticed dangers. Terrain traps.
Timings	In the light of conditions are the objectives and time available/allowed realistic?
Descents – think ahead	Should route be changed in the light of conditions during the ascent. Timing. Order of descent.
Options and escape routes	In the light of conditions will the route planned be possible? Can it be changed. What are the options?
Snow conditionsAspect	Are they as expected? Stability, quality. Does this affect safety? Are all aspects safe/dangerous.
Stability tests	Where and when to make them – if at all. If you feel unsure/unhappy about a slope ask yourself why? Check it out. Dig a pit and test your assumptions before you ski it.

Putting in a Track

A good track is both efficient and safe in ascent and descent. A good route is not only safe, it should also be enjoyable skiing. It is not, however, always the shortest route, but should endeavour to:

minimise exposure to terrain traps – dangerous places which would make the consequences of an avalanche or fall even more serious (eg. traversing risky slopes above cliffs)

minimise travel over slopes where snow stability is poor and the risk of avalanche suspected or known

minimise kick turns, especially in exposed places where the consequences of a slip are serious

minimise bunching together, especially in areas of suspect snow stability. Don't overload the slope.

Going uphill, a safe and efficient track should:

avoid unneccesary kick turns, but not be too steep

be within everyone's ability

avoid cutting the slope above other members of the group

ensure rests and regrouping occur only at safe locations

use vantage points en route to plan and assess the route ahead

allow observation of snow transportation and accumulation to help build a picture of snow stability.

Going downhill a controlled and disciplined descent allows you to:

assess snow stability and be aware of changes casued by slope aspect, elevation and angle

ensure that safety measures are in place to minimise the dangers to the maximum number of skiers within the group – speed and spacing are all-important

communicate with all members of the group, and ensure all understand the hazards and what is required – have an agreed signal system

maintain organisation and discipline and not let the descent become a free-for-all

stick to your route or planned options – don't just ‘go for it’ into the unknown.

I began this section by mentioning the three Ps – planning, preparation and practice. Well, there should really be six Ps because – ‘Planning, preparation and practice will prevent a poor performance!’

GROUP ORGANISATION

Assess the ability of every member of your group – who is the weakest link? Is the proposed tour more than they can deal with? Don't let ambition outdo ability.

What safety measures and group organisation are needed for the tour, given the terrain and group size, ability, etc? How are you going to cross suspect slopes? How are you going to carry out avalanche procedures/tranceiver searches?

Choose an able leader. Appoint a competent tail-end Charlie – not the slowest/poorest skier! Invariably the best skiers want to be up front putting in fresh tracks.

Grading and Difficulty

There are several well-established systems used for grading ski mountaineering and off-piste skiing objectives. The Swiss, French, German, Italian and Austrian Alpine clubs have adopted these, or variations of them, for use in their guidebooks. Two widely used

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