Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 2 - Central and Eastern Alps. Bill O'Connor
couloir or valley, it is all but impossible to make an informed judgement about the dangers you face or to ski it safely. In these conditions the best option may well be to stay put in the hut, read a book or practise a few rope skills nearby.
Times and Conditions
The time given in the guide for any particular stage is an average one for a party of reasonably fit skiers moving steadily and climbing at around 300m per hour. Where appropriate they provide generous timings, rather than assuming a fast pace. The times given cannot take into account problems arising from poor fitness, skiing ability, navigation or conditions. In the unlikely event that any of these apply to your party you will need to adjust the tour accordingly.
If you arrive at the Alps tired after travelling, and with no acclimatisation, the first few days may well feel tough. If you haven't toured for a year your equipment may feel unfamiliar – and like your legs might not work very well! As a friend of mine says: ‘Don't let your enthusiasm make appointments your legs and lungs can't keep!’
Once on tour most skiers find they acclimatise quickly and become more efficient and familiar with their kit. It takes a while to fall into the delightful rhythm of skinning, carrying a rucksack and, of course, hut life. After a while you are likely to find that the times given in the guide seem more generous. However, that's as it should be. Remember, having time in hand means having a safety margin should problems arise.
By late spring, when the days lengthen, it is normal to arrive back at the huts in the early afternoon with plenty of daylight left. It can feel as if half the day has been wasted. In fact it is often the case that the snow by then is too soft or dangerous for enjoyable skiing. You can always spend the afternoon doing a transceiver search or crevasse rescue.
Remember, weather and snow can change rapidly on tour. A slope on which a party an hour or so ahead of you were able to make perfect linked turns may have become a nightmare by the time you come to descend it. It pays to plan ahead and think about slope aspect, weather conditions and timing.
Start Times
These vary throughout the season for the same route and will depend on a mixture of things: touring objective, party fitness, snow, weather conditions and, of course, the whim of the hut guardian. Most Alpine huts have a set breakfast period during the ski-touring season. Find this out from the guardian on arrival at the hut and plan accordingly. If you want to leave early let the guardian know. If you are lucky he might put a flask and some food out for you. On popular tours like the Haute Route you will invariably be involved in a massed start in the morning, which is all but impossible to avoid. Once underway in the morning groups quickly disperse, invariably coming together at bottlenecks such as steep climbs or abseil descents. If you want to get away quickly in the morning you need to get packed and organised the night before and get down to breakfast quickly!
Route-Finding and Navigation
It goes without saying that a 1:25,000 scale map, compass and altimeter, and the ability to use them, are essential for accurate navigation when ski touring. More and more skiers are using a Global Positioning System (GPS), and many maps provide a useful table of GPS co-ordinates to help plot waymarks quickly. Of course all maps have a grid system. Whatever tools you have, make sure you are skilful in using them. It is also advisable to spend time studying the map – mental rehearsal combined with map memory is a great benefit once skiing.
Altimeter
When skiing it is unusual to be able follow a direct compass bearing. Occasionally, on a well-covered glacier such as the Grosser Aletsch, it is possible, but normally crevasses have to be avoided and turns are essential. An altimeter when skiing is an indispensable piece of equipment for accurate navigation in poor visibility. Wristwatch-style altimeters that can be worn outside a jacket are particularly useful. They can be referred to whilst on the move without loss of time or rhythm. Trying to gauge your speed of descent when skiing in poor visibility is all but impossible. An altimeter will save the day and give your altitude, if not your exact position, on a particular slope. In addition, they act as a barometer, indicating pressure variation and therefore potential changes in the weather.
GPS
Global Positioning Systems are increasingly being used by skiers. They are not a substitute for good navigation, which is as much about good judgement and route choice as simply about knowing where you are. However, when combined with sound navigational skill they are very useful, and very reassuring in white-out conditions.
Drying out boots and skins on the terrace of the Konkordia Hut
The Alpine Hut System
One of the benefits of skiing in the Alps is the extensive chain of mountain huts available there. The building of huts began early in the history of Alpinism, and they serve us well. Above all they make it possible to enjoy extensive ski touring without the need to carry heavy camping, cooking and sleeping equipment, and food; the combined weight of which, for a long tour, would make touring unbearable, if not impossible, for many skiers. Alpine Huts have been built and are owned by various national Alpine clubs – namely the Swiss Alpine Club (CAS), French Alpine Club (CAF), Italian Alpine Club (CAI), Austrian Alpine Club (AAV) and German Alpine Club (DAV). Non-Alpine countries have contributed financially to some. There are also a growing number of private huts.
The huts are open to everyone, and usually offer mixed dormitory-style accommodation. Members of an Alpine club or organisations affiliated to the UIAA (International Union of Alpine Associations) may have reciprocal rights giving them discounted bed-nights at most huts. Non-members simply pay a little more. The huts currently represent very good value for money. Most huts are open during the main season, usually mid-March until the end of April or May, during which time a hut warden is resident who provides meals and advice.
There are huts and then there are bivi huts – just remember to close the door when you leave
Winter Rooms
Not all huts are open or guarded during the ski season. Those that are not usually have a ‘winter-room’ that is left open. This is usually quite a small space, with bunks and blankets, a stove and wood for fuel, although a few have gas stoves and a limited supply of utensils. They can have a great atmosphere, although most are pretty cold. To be on the safe side, I normally carry a stove and fuel when I'm using winter rooms, just in case I arrive at the end of a busy period and the fuel has run out.
Payment in Unguarded Huts
There is an honesty-box system for payment. Envelopes and a safe-box will be found on the wall inside the hut – fill in your details on the envelope and deposit your money in it inside the safe-box.
Hut Etiquette
If you use the winter room, remember to leave it tidy, fold all blankets and close all shutters and doors. There's nothing more depressing after a hard day's touring than to find the doors or windows open and the winter room full of snow and the blankets wet. If you decide to leave food for others to use, make sure it's sealed; don't leave half-used scraps that can go rotten. I've certainly been grateful in the past to find spare tea bags or packet of soup powder available.
Booking the Huts
It is recommended that you book your place at the hut in advance; this allows the guardian to plan meals and accommodation properly and thus avoid gross overcrowding. Failure to do so can make for watery soup and worse! Guardians make a great effort to find everyone a place; you will rarely be turned away. However, some huts get very busy during the holidays, particularly over Easter on the more famous haute routes. If you change your plans, let the guardian know so that your place can be made available to others. Guardians, if they are expecting you, may also be concerned about your non-arrival if you have failed to cancel your booking. Many skiers also phone ahead let the guardian know they are on their way. Most huts have radio-telephones, which you can use.
Meals
Many huts offer a near