Alpine Ski Mountaineering Vol 2 - Central and Eastern Alps. Bill O'Connor
are included some of the finest, most accessible Alpine ski tours in the world – only available, of course, to the complete mountaineer. None of the routes is extreme, although the conditions can be, and it's then that mountaineering judgement and sound decisions are all important. You do need to plan and prepare properly for these tours if you are to succeed.
The selection covers tours in the most important Alpine regions. They are also varied in length and difficulty, although most fit within a full week's touring. Of course, if poor weather or conditions prevail they can take a lot longer! The routes also include a mix of ‘circular’ tours, which are convenient for those wishing to leave car or equipment in one place, and ‘linear’ routes that journey hut to hut, even from country to country. These usually require a little more organisation with regard to logistics, travel and packing.
Crossing Konkordiaplatz at dawn with the sun appearing over the Grünhornlücke
The routes described are all Alpine – in other words, they require both skiing and mountaineering skills. While technical climbing ability of a high standard is not essential, the skills required to operate on steep slopes and glacier terrain, where cramponing, ropework and crevasse rescue may be necessary, are essential for safety, as are navigational skills. It goes without saying that avalanche awareness skills and knowledge are vitally important for everyone who intends to ski mountaineer.
Using this Guidebook
Each tour section in this book follows the same pattern.
An introduction provides a little about the mountaineering history of the area and gives some background on both the Alpine area and the tour itself.
To help simplify planning the following information is given at the start of each tour:
start
finish
duration
location
difficulty
best time for the tour
facilities (accommodation and supplies)
access
maps.
This is followed by route summary, detailing the key place names found on the map for each stage of the route. This is useful for plotting the route when used in conjunction with the recommended 1:25,000 maps.
The itinerary for each tour is broken down into recommended day stages. Each stage begins by giving details of:
ascent
descent
principal aspect
difficulty
time.
This is followed by a description of the day's stage. Describing a ski route is very different from describing summer climbs or walking routes. In summer, paths and features are clear and often waymarked. During the ski season many features including way-markings, outcrops, streams and paths will be buried under snow. Therefore ski-route descriptions are less prescriptive – snow conditions and ability will often decide the precise line of ascent or descent. Some routes are obviously determined by the terrain – say when it follows a valley, ridge or couloir – but the precise line will always be a matter of judgement or of following old tracks! When crossing untracked snow, the skier will have to call on skill and judgement to find the best line through crevasses or to make the most efficient and safest track on a snow-laden slope. Even if you know an area in summer, don't assume the ski track will follow the same route. Although maps and route descriptions can indicate crevasses, their precise position changes with the movement of the ice. At all times the ski mountaineer must be willing to make a judgement about route choice and snow stability – no guidebook can do that. One of the great things about ski touring is, no matter how popular the tour, after new snow you will always have a clean sheet to work with. At all times the ski mountaineer must be observant, paying particular attention to the critical factors of weather, terrain and snow conditions before committing to a specific route.
Details of the routes are summarised in a table at the end of the book.
Route-finding
The length and difficulty of a day stage as given in the guide can be changed. You may think the day too short or the ascent of a particular peak too demanding. With a little care it is always possible to alter the route to suit your needs and the prevailing conditions to ensure the safest route.
If you decide not to follow the route exactly as described in the guide, you may be tempted to follow an existing ski track not yet filled in by fresh or windblown snow. Before following it, however, be in no doubt that the track is leading where you want to go. Many a skier has followed a trail carelessly only to arrive at the wrong col or summit! As a skier you have the option of making fresh tracks, both in ascent and descent, especially if the track in place takes a bad line or climbs inefficiently. It is satisfying to look back at a well-made track and know it is your own. On the descent, if too many tracks have trashed a fine slope it may be possible to make new ones, thus giving you the satisfaction of looking back at a set of cleanly carved turns – or not. Of course there is wisdom in following an established track through difficult terrain, say on a crevassed glacier or after heavy snowfall.
Planning before setting off on tour
Maps and Diagrams
Accompanying each route description is a route profile, a diagram giving a clear indication of the ups and downs involved in each day's touring. Combined with the sketch map and description this should provide a useful impression of the rhythm of the day's stage.
The sketch maps of each tour will allow you to plan your route in conjunction with the route description and the recommended 1:25,000 or 1:50,000 maps. The sketch maps indicate cols, glaciers and significant spot heights mentioned in the text. They are not intended as a substitute for the recommended maps. They provide an indication of the route only.
For each tour a particular map or set of maps is recommended. Unfortunately several of the tours require numerous maps. Ideally use those at 1:25,000 scale. The Swiss, in conjunction with their National Ski Federation, have produced special ski maps at 1:50,000 scale. These have ski routes marked and also have a wealth of information about routes printed on the back of the map. These are very useful. For general planning 1:100,000 scale maps are recommended. Although useless for navigation, unless you are in a car, they are ideal for plotting the route and getting a feeling for the areas surrounding a given tour.
Huts and Other Useful Contacts
A list of addresses and telephone numbers for each tour, including the telephone numbers of the Alpine huts mentioned in the route, is given in Appendix 3. Specific details about huts have been included in the tour description where necessary. Also given at the end of each tour is contact information for tourist offices, police, rescue services and weather information.
On Tour
Always take time to consider the weather conditions, not just on the day you start but over the days and weeks before your tour. They will have an effect on the snowpack and your safety. The snowpack will, in turn, affect the difficulty of the route, the time a stage takes and the dangers that exist. No guidebook can cover all the variables. The descriptions are based on known routes done in stable conditions. Just occasionally conditions for a tour will be idyllic: perfect snow, few crevasses and a track in place, all of which will make for a direct route and a fast time. Much more likely is a varied mix of good and unskiable snow, blue sky and bad visibility, as well as easy or complex crevasse systems to negotiate. The key is to expect the unexpected and allow yourself time to deal with problems.
Remember, if you can't see the slope ahead, be