Ecrins National Park. Kev Reynolds
by gazing upon it from the churchyard. To see it fairly, one must be placed at a greater distance and at a greater height.’ This walk gives an opportunity to do just that. It climbs the hillside directly above La Grave, visits two of the villages that enjoy a better perspective of La Meije, and provides a good introduction to the area. Although steep in places, it's neither difficult nor too demanding.
Walk up through the old village of La Grave, passing the ate 11th-century church on your left and, winding through narrow streets, bear left by the gîte d'étape called Le Refuge. At the upper part of the village bear left in front of Le Château. A few paces beyond this a path cuts right to Ventelon – but we go straight ahead on a track signed to Les Terraces (the route of GR54), which can be seen ahead on the steep hillside. The track soon goes through gently angled meadows, then forks. Take the right-hand option – a path which slants uphill and enters Les Terraces. Go ahead between farms and old houses, several of which are adorned with flowers, and come to the church on a road (40mins).
The Oratoire du Chazelet
Cross directly ahead, climb a little higher and rejoin the road at a hairpin bend. Walk ahead along the road, but then break away on a track cutting from it at a bend. This short-cuts the road and brings you up to the shrine of Oratoire du Chazelet (1840m) at the road's highest point.
Leave the road for a moment and take the path on the opposite side. This climbs a short distance to an orientation table which provides an extensive panorama dominated by La Meije and Le Râteau. To the northwest lies Le Chazelet. The Romanche is about 500m below, the valley's north wall plunges in crags to the river, while to the east Villar d'Arène can be seen, as can the road snaking up to Col du Lautaret. Along the hillside are clustered several hamlets and farms.
Return to the road and wander down to Le Chazelet (1786m: refreshments), a crowded village with a medieval atmosphere set just below the confluence of the Torrent du Ga and that of the Martignare.
ROUTE 5
Le Chazelet (1786m) – Plateau d'Emparis – Lac Noir (2430m)
| Start | Le Chazelet (1786m) |
| Distance | 8km (one way) |
| Total Ascent | 644m |
| Grade | 1–2 |
| Time | 2hrs 45mins (4–4½hrs return) |
| Location | West of La Grave |
This is the second walk to visit the Plateau d'Emparis (marked as Plateau de Paris on the IGN map), and for visitors based at La Grave it is the obvious and more popular route. An elevated pastureland with an atmosphere all its own, the Plateau rewards with tremendous views and an abundance of Alpine plants. If walking all the way from La Grave you should remember to add at least 2½hrs for the return journey. Should you have your own vehicle, there's plenty of parking space on the outskirts of Le Chazelet.
La Meije from Lac Lerié
From the parking area on the northwest side of Le Chazelet cross the Torrent du Ga on a bridge where a good path (GR54) then makes a left-hand hairpin and rises steeply with zigzags up the hillside, at first heading southwest. The way then turns to the right, passes beneath a ski lift and crosses a shoulder at 2164m. This is near the end of the Côte du Caux. Wander round the slopes of the Serre Bernard (a delightful belvedere), cross a stream and slant up to the open, rolling Plateau d'Emparis. At about 2300m (2¼hrs) the path forks. Bear left across grass hillocks to find Lac Lerié in its hollow. This is a lovely tarn from whose shores you gaze due south across the unseen depths of the Romanche to the glaciers which adorn the opposite wall, and southeast for a magnificent view of the Meije. Pass round the right-hand side of the tarn and wander west over more hummocks to the larger Lac Noir.
To return to Le Chazelet, follow the minor path heading roughly north, then northeast to Col du Souchet, where you come onto the GR54. Bear right and follow this all the way back to the car park.
Other Walks from Le Chazelet
A short and easy round trip of about 50mins leads to the small Alp hut of LES PLAGNES in the lower reaches of the Combe de Martignare, northeast of Le Chazelet. The Combe is a pastoral glen rimmed by grass-covered mountains, and the path to take is that which forks by a white ski-school building above the road at a hairpin bend northwest of the village.
A second option is to take the path along the east bank of the Torrent du Ga to the hamlets of RIVET DU PIED, RIVET DU MILIEU and RIVET DE LA CIME, and continue as far as you like towards the head of the glen which narrows below Pic du Mas de la Grave.
The ascent of PIC DU MAS DE LA GRAVE (3020m) makes a straightforward but rewarding day out from Le Chazelet (5hrs ascent, 8hrs there and back). For this, take the path mentioned above through Rivet du Pied and so on as far as the Baraque de la Buffe (1¾hrs, 2085m), where several streams come together to create the Torrent du Ga. The way then climbs southwest, before flanking north-northwest above a hanging valley. Cairns mark the start of the ascent proper which strikes up the mountain's grassy southwest ridge. This turns to rock at about 2650m, and more cairns guide the way to the summit. Views from here are extensive.
A two-day circular walk, with a night spent at REFUGE RIF TORT, follows the path mentioned above through the Vallon de la Ga as far as the Baraque de la Buffe, then curves southwest to cross a grassy spur at about 2275m. Over this wander alongside the Rif Tort stream which brings you close to the refuge. On the second day cross the pastureland of the Plateau d'Emparis to join GR54, and take this path heading southeast over Col du Souchet and down to Le Chazelet.
ROUTE 6
La Grave (1481m) – Oratoire du Chazelet (1840m) – Signal de la Grave (2446m) – Ventelon (1755m) – La Grave
| Start | La Grave (1481m) |
| Distance | 13km |
| Total Ascent | 965m |
| Grade | 2–3 |
| Time | 5–5½hrs |
| Location | North of La Grave |
A fairly long and demanding, but by no means difficult, route to a modest summit viewpoint north of La Grave, this outing needs settled weather to gain maximum enjoyment from it. A wonderful overview of the region is gained from many parts of the walk, but the descent to Ventelon is very steep in places and can be rather tiring.
Follow directions to the orientation table above the Oratoire du Chazelet, as outlined in Route 4. At an altitude of 1856m, this is gained in about an hour from La Grave. Continue on the path above the orientation table (direction Les Clots and Signal de la Grave), angling gently up through meadows with good views onto Le Chazelet. About 10mins from the road you will come to a junction marked by a signpost. The right-hand path goes to Les Clots, but we take the alternative which makes a rising traverse of the left-hand hillside.
The alpenglow colours La Meije, seen from Le Chazelet
Approaching a chairlift views open to reveal the Vallon de la Ga topped by Pic du Mas de la Grave. Beyond the chairlift the way curves right into the Combe de Martignare, banked with wild flowers. The track is joined by another shortly after reaching a ski tow, and on passing under the tow the way cuts back on itself in a hairpin. When the track forks soon after, take the left branch to pass under the ski tow once more. The way snakes uphill virtually following the line of another ski tow, and emerges onto a grass saddle at its head (2hrs).
Bear left at the saddle and rise up the broad but steeply sloping grass ridge to gain a domed high point of 2271m. Beyond this descend to a second saddle (2252m) where a grass path cuts back to the right – this is used on the descent to Ventelon. Ignore this alternative for now and continue along the ridge, with Signal de la Grave and its summit cairn seen ahead. The path rises to it without complication, reaching the crown with its impressive panoramic views about 2hrs 45mins from La Grave.
Descend