Ecrins National Park. Kev Reynolds
for the type of telephone being used (fixed line; mobile; public kiosk; or METEOR phone kiosk). You will then be given a number to press for the language required, and a recorded voice then instructs you to dial the PIN number of your specific card. You will be told how many units/minutes are available for your call, then instructed to dial the number required. Relax – the system is not as complicated as it may seem. Calls can be received at phone boxes showing a blue bell sign.
The international access code from France is 00. Individual country codes are usually displayed in telephone kiosks. The code for the UK is 44; Eire is 353; the USA is 1.
Abbreviations
Abbreviations have been used sparingly in this guide, although some have been adopted by necessity. While most should be clearly understood, the following list is given for clarification:
| ATM | Cash machine (Automated Teller Machine) |
| BMC | British Mountaineering Council |
| CAF | Club Alpin Français |
| GR | Grande Randonnées |
| hrs | hours |
| IGN | Institut Géographique National |
| km | kilometres |
| m | metres |
| mins | minutes |
| PTT | Post Office (Post, Telephone and Telegraph) |
| STD | Societe des Touristes du Dauphiné |
| TGV | Trains á Grande Vitesse (the French super-fast train) |
Finally, all information contained in this guide is given in good faith, and routes described offered in the hope that readers will gain as much enjoyment from walking in and around the Écrins National Park as I have during the weeks of research. But I am fully aware that from time to time changes occur to the landscape, huts, and villages through natural causes as well as by the hand of man. It may be that you will discover paths that have been rerouted, or landscape features altered to such an extent that some of the descriptions are no longer valid. Should this be the case, I first of all hope that such changes in no way spoil your holiday, and secondly would very much appreciate a note giving details in order that I can check them out for any future edition of the guide. A postcard sent to me c/o Cicerone Press, 2 Police Square, Milnthorpe, Cumbria LA7 7PY would be gratefully received.
The moraine crest path overlooking Glacier Noir (Route 37)
VALLÉE DE LA ROMANCHE
The Romanche below Alpe de Villar d'Arène (Route 17)
The northern fringe of the Écrins park makes a first-rate introduction to the area. High pasturelands scattered with time-worn hamlets make a perfect belvedere from which to study the glacier-clad bastions of La Meije and Le Râteau, while the abrupt flanks of those mountains are broken here and there with hanging valleys and secretive glens full of raw beauty. Peaceful tarns, anxious rivers and waterfalls add to the valley's charm, and there's no shortage of prime walking potential.
| Location | On the northern ledge of the Écrins National Park. The Romanche flows west from near Col du Lautaret to Bourg d'Oisans, a distance of 57km. |
| Bases | Bourg d'Oisans (720m), La Grave (1481m), Villar d'Arène (1683m) |
| Information |
Office du Tourisme, Quai Girard, 38520 Bourg d'Oisans ( |
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Maison du Parc, Rue Gambetta, BP 47, 38520 Bourg d'Oisans ( |
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Office du Tourisme, 05320 La Grave ( |
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| Access | Easily accessible via the N91 Grenoble-Briançon road. Daily bus services operate between Grenoble and Briançon, serving Bourg d'Oisans, La Grave, and points in between. |
Introduction
The Romanche is an important valley of access. Rising over 1300m between Bourg d'Oisans and Col du Lautaret, it is flanked by the glacier peaks of La Meije (see Appendix B) and Le Râteau on the south, and high but gently rolling country to the north.
That northern countryside, which is immensely attractive to walkers, is scooped with shallow valleys leading to summits of 3000m and more, while small tarns trapped below reflect the snow and ice of the southern massif. It's a gentle, pastoral landscape, with a handful of small hamlets set upon terraces that face across the valley to its majestic southern wall. La Meije is the highest of those southern mountains, a graceful peak of 3982m and the subject of intense rivalry during attempts to make its first ascent, which was finally achieved in 1877 by Boileau de Castelnau with Pierre Gaspard, father and son. Despite its focus La Meije is just one of several fine peaks near the head of the valley that form an impressive backdrop to a number of walks, while at the western end of its wall the prime ski resort of Les Deux-Alpes laces the hillside with a series of cableways and tows that remain largely unseen from the valley itself.
From Le Bourg's flat basin ringed with steep crags, the N91 Lautaret-Briançon road travels southeast to enter the Gorges de l'Infernet, then rises steadily to gain some 300m at Lac du Chambon, an emerald green reservoir which flooded three hamlets when its dam was built. At the barrage a minor road (D213) twists south to Mont de Lans and Les Deux-Alpes, while another (D25) climbs north to Mizoën and continues through a deep ravine to Besse, while yet another narrow road aims for the western side of the Plateau d'Emparis. The main N91 skirts the north shore of Lac du Chambon with the aid of tunnels and continues through the narrow Combe de Malaval, which gradually opens until La Grave is reached with its view of La Meije and Le Râteau.
Out of La Grave another minor road (D33) cuts off to the north and twists up the hillside to Ventelon, where it forks. The right-hand option goes to Les Hières and Valfroide, while the left fork eases round to Les Terraces, then climbs on to Le Chazelet. Both roads have tremendous panoramic views to the south.
Meanwhile N91 snakes through more tunnels before emerging on the ledge of Villar d'Arène, the last village on the route to Col du Lautaret, although side roads break off to the hamlets of Le Pied du Col and Les Cours. Col du Lautaret itself offers a striking view of the Mieje massif and its glaciers. At an altitude of 2057m it is said to be the busiest crossing in the Dauphiné Alps, and is kept open throughout the winter. There's a 2-hectare Alpine Garden with over 2000 species of plants, and in the Refuge Napoléon an information centre detailing the geology of the area as well as its flora and fauna. At the col D902 forks north on the way to Col du Galibier (highest crossing on the Route des Grandes Alpes), but N91 continues to the southeast, descending into the Vallée de la Guisane on the way to Briançon.
Main Valley Bases
BOURG D'OISANS (720m) is one of the main points of entry to the Écrins region, having ready access to both the Romanche and Vénéon valleys and, via Col d'Ornon, to the Valjouffrey. As ‘capital’ of