Ecrins National Park. Kev Reynolds
Refuge and Roche de la Muzelle (Routes 50, 53, 54)
The Etançons valley below Refuge du Châtelleret (Route 66)
Vallée du Vénéon
The final entry in our summary of valleys is the Vénéon, which rises in the glacial heartland of the massif and flows roughly northwest out to the Romanche a short distance upstream of Bourg d'Oisans. The Vénéon is a gem of a valley fed by a number of attractive tributary glens, all of which are well worth exploring on foot. An infrequent daily bus service runs from Bourg to La Bérarde, the final village situated at the roadhead where the upper Vénéon is joined by the Etançons torrent – the latter draining glaciers on the south side of La Meije. Within the valley there are several small centres, but no real resorts. Naming from west to east these are: Venosc, Bourg d'Arud, St-Christophe-en-Oisans and La Bérarde, the ‘Chamonix’ (in terms of mountaineering appeal) of the Écrins.
The Parc National des Écrins
In 1913 a protected zone was centred on La Bérarde, but another 60 years passed before the Parc National des Écrins became the fifth, but largest, such National Park in France. Vauban had once described the region as having ‘mountains reaching for the sky, and valleys sinking to incredible depths’. And it is just such a landscape that is characteristic of the Park.
In the north and west the mountains consist of crystalline and meta-morphic rocks (granite and gneiss), while sedimentary rocks (limestone, schist and clay) dominate in the south and east. There are a surprisingly large number of glaciers amounting to some 12,000 hectares, for the Dauphiné Alps is the southernmost region of the Alpine chain to retain ice sheets of any size, and it is largely due to the powerful rivers and waterfalls flowing from them that such deep valleys and gorges have been cut.
The extraordinary difference in elevation between valley bed and mountain summit, ranging from 800m to 4000m, coupled with oceanic influences in the north and west, and Mediterranean influences in the south, are responsible for the wonderfully rich and diverse flora of the Écrins. Some 1800 species have been identified within the Park (that's half of all French flora); 800 of these are protected, while around 40 are considered either rare or endangered, and 35 are endemic to the area.
As for wildlife, the Park lists 64 species of mammal, including typical Alpine favourites such as ibex, chamois and marmot. The ibex was reintroduced to the Écrins as recently as 1990–95, but the chamois is well-established and the population now numbers around 12,000. There are 210 species of nesting birds and the largest concentration of golden eagles in France, while the bearded vulture is a regular visitor.
Écrins National Park sign
In keeping with its status as an area of conservation and environmental protection, the National Park has a list of regulations which the visitor should observe. These are summarised above.
PARK REGULATIONS
Dogs are not allowed, even on a lead. Respect wildlife and livestock.
Do not pick or take samples of plants, rocks and fossils, or animals.
Firearms are banned; all wildlife within the National Park is protected.
Leave no litter. Keep the countryside clean.
Do not light fires.
Avoid making unnecessary noise.
Off-site camping is restricted to an overnight pitch between 7pm and 9am, at least one hour's walk from a road or the Park boundary.
Motor vehicles and bicycles are only allowed on authorised roads.
Getting There
Assuming one approaches from the north and west, Grenoble is the key to entry to the whole region no matter what the method of travel.
By Air
Currently both Ryanair (from London Stansted) and Easyjet (from Birmingham, Bournemouth, Bristol, London Gatwick and Stansted) have flights to Grenoble-Saint-Geoirs. Fly-drive arrangements are available via airlines and tour operators, but note that the minimum age for hiring a car in France varies from 21 to 25 years, depending on the hire company. Some companies levy a surcharge on drivers below 25 years of age.
For onward travel from Grenoble airport, a 30min transfer by bus brings you to the Gare Routière from where buses continue into the Écrins region. For further bus information visit www.transisere.fr
By Train
For anyone travelling direct from the UK the train is a convenient option. Eurostar takes 3hrs for the journey from London St Pancras to Paris (Gare du Nord) via the Channel Tunnel, and the high-speed (300km/h) TGV service connects Paris (Gare de Lyon) with Grenoble in 2hrs 55mins. There are also main-line services from Paris to Briançon. For up-to-date rail information get in touch with Rail Europe (
Local Bus Information
Local buses operate out of Grenoble (the Gare routière is conveniently adjacent to the main-line railway station) with the following destinations: Gap, La Mure, Bourg d'Oisans, Briançon, and so on. Connecting VFD buses for several other destinations such as La Bérarde and Alpe d'Huez have Bourg d'Oisans as their terminus (www.transisere.fr).
Grenoble-Bourg d'Oisans: VFD Gare routière de Bourg d'Oisans (
Grenoble-Briançon/Grenoble-Gap: VFD Gare routière de Grenoble (
Please note that services are greatly reduced outside the main summer holiday period – mid-July to the beginning of September.
By Car
The journey from the Channel ports to Grenoble is straightforward by autoroute via Paris, but note that these are toll roads and are therefore reasonably expensive to use. The road distance from Calais to Grenoble is about 830km. In France the minimum driving age is 18. Nationals of European Union countries need a valid driving licence, while those from non-EU countries require an international driving licence. The vehicle's log book should be carried, and insurance cover is compulsory. Front-seat passengers must wear seat belts, and children below the age of 10 are restricted to the back seat.
Accommodation
A variety of accommodation is on offer throughout the region, from campsites to all but the most elegant of hotels. Outline details are given within the main body of this guide, but for specific information you are advised to contact the local tourist offices who can usually supply printed lists of hotels, gîtes and campsites, and provide an idea of prices. (Details of tourist offices are given at the start of each valley section.)
Official Campsites
Campsites of varying sizes are located in most of the main valleys – but not in all of them. Every one used personally during research had good, clean and efficient facilities. However, as with other forms of accommodation, beware that they can be very busy during the main summer holiday period, which in France begins on 14 July and continues until late August.
Gîtes d'étape
Gîtes may be described as privately-owned youth hostels predominantly