100 Hut Walks in the Alps. Kev Reynolds
contrast to the aiguille-guarded Mont Blanc range, yet each will repay the explorations of the mountain walker. The GR5 makes an epic traverse of the French Alps from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean – see The GR5 Trail by Paddy Dillon (Cicerone Press).
THE MARITIME ALPS
Rising behind Nice at the southwestern end of the whole Alpine range, the Maritime Alps have no permanent snowfields, and few summits rise much above 3000m. With deep valleys and surprisingly tortuous road passes linking one with another, picturesque medieval villages appear to hang suspended from gorge walls, or are perched on the top of remote and seemingly inaccessible crags. Many of the inner valleys are uninhabited, save for the occasional mountain hut which entices walkers to explore, and a number of splendid tarns lie scattered among the upper pastures. Since 1979 a large section of the Maritime Alps has been set aside as the Mercantour National Park. Although popular among local walkers and climbers, very few English-speaking enthusiasts stray into these mountains.
Guidebooks:Mercantour Park by Robin Collomb (West Col), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/The Mountaineers), Walks and Treks in the Maritime Alps by Gillian Price (Cicerone Press).
DAUPHINÉ ALPS
This extensive region includes several mountain groups, among them the Queyras and Massif des Écrins. The first of these forms part of the Cottian Alps which border the northernmost hills and mountains of the Maritime Alps. Again, few English-speaking activists are seen here, other than walkers tackling the multi-day Tour du Queyras, but the lush inner glens are very fine, while many of the peaks, though little-known to any but the most avid of mountain buffs, are excitingly attractive. Only one Queyras hut walk is included here, but with Monte Viso in sight for much of the way, that will provide a good hint of what the area has to offer. As for the Massif des Écrins, this dramatic block of high mountains is situated northwest of the Queyras. Boasting the southernmost 4000m summit in the Alps (Barre des Écrins: 4102m), this compact yet complex group, with huts in amazing locations, reveals some unforgettable scenery.
Guidebooks:Tour of the Queyras by Alan Castle (Cicerone Press), Tour of the Oisans by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/ The Mountaineers), Écrins National Park – a Walker’s Guide by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press).
GRAIAN ALPS
Wedged between the Dauphiné Alps and the Mont Blanc range, the Graian Alps have at their hub the Vanoise National Park – a glorious region of glacier peaks reflected in a wealth of dazzling mountain tarns. This is walking country par excellence. In the early summer the high meadows are ablaze with flowers. Chamois, ibex and marmots are seen almost daily, and there’s a good selection of mountain huts, many of which are owned by the National Park authorities. Although day walks are possible on the periphery, the most rewarding way of getting to know the Vanoise is by making a hut to hut tour of the region. Several possibilities exist, of varying lengths and degrees of difficulty.
Guidebooks:Walking in the Tarentaise & Beaufortain Alps by J W Akitt (Cicerone Press), Walking the Alpine Parks of France & Northwest Italy by Marcia R Lieberman (Cordee/The Mountaineers), Tour of the Vanoise by Kev Reynolds (Cicerone Press), Mountain Adventures in the Maurienne by Andy Hodges (Cicerone Press).
THE MONT BLANC RANGE
With Chamonix at its base, the Mont Blanc range is understandably the busiest of all the mountain regions of France. Scenically dramatic, all the ingredients of an Alpine landscape are gathered here in abundance – towering aiguilles, huge snow domes, rock slabs, screes, glaciers, waterfalls, flower-starred pastures, forests and lush green valleys. Shared between France, Italy and Switzerland the Mont Blanc massif is surrounded by seven valleys, the linking of each providing the route of the classic Tour du Mont Blanc. But numerous possibilities exist for day walks, and just a small selection of hut routes are offered here.
Guidebooks:Mont Blanc Walks and Chamonix Mountain Adventures by Hilary Sharp and Tour of Mont Blanc by Kev Reynolds (published by Cicerone Press).
Col de la Croix du Bonhomme (Walk 18)
WALK 1
Refuge de Valmasque (2221m: 7287ft)
| Start | Nat. Park entrance (1732m: 5683ft) |
| Valley base | Casterino or St-Dalmas |
| Distance | 11km (7 miles) round trip |
| Total ascent | 489m (1604ft) |
| Time | 2hrs up, 1½hrs down |
| Map | Didier Richard 9 ‘Mercantour’ 1:50,000 |
The Vallée de la Roya, flowing south from Col de Tende, marks the eastern limit of the Maritime Alps. To the west the Mercantour National Park runs against the Franco-Italian border, and within it lies some firstrate walking country. Several huts grouped within a comparatively small area are linked by accessible cols. The first of these is Refuge de Valmasque. Overlooking a small dammed lake at the head of the Valmasque valley, it is reached by a short but interesting walk from a narrow road which projects deep into the mountains from St-Dalmas-de-Tende. Walkers without their own transport can take a twice-daily bus from St-Dalmas railway station as far as Casterino (13km), and begin the walk there – in which case add 5km and a further 1½hrs to the overall route.
About 3km upvalley from the hamlet of Casterino, the narrow jeep road forks at the entrance to the Mercantour National Park; vehicles should be parked here. At this point wander along a stony track, signposted to Refuge de Valmasque, soon looking steeply down to the Valmasque stream. Green mountains on the north side of the valley rise to the Italian frontier, while the track rises gently among larch, rowan and alder and curves south-west towards wilder country marked by jagged, rocky peaks. After about 40mins an alternative path slants off right ahead to explore Lac de l’Agnel. We remain on the track for a further 15mins to reach a barrier (2027m).
Supply mule on its way to Refuge de Valmasque
Now take a narrow path rising on the left. At first steeply, the angle soon eases across a small pasture with a fine stream flowing through. The path accompanies this stream upvalley, then rises to a higher level and crosses the stream below a cascade. At a junction of paths take the upper option and eventually gain a high, rocky terrace where you traverse to the right (north). The trail forks; the left branch leads to the Baisse de Valmasque via Lac Noir and Lac du Basto, the right-hand option is marked to the refuge. This latter trail contours over a hillside of bald slabs, passes a ruin, climbs a little to a second ruin, now with the hut in sight, and slopes down to the small barrage at the eastern end of Lac Vert. The hut is perched on a rocky knoll on the far side overlooking a wild and rocky landscape dominated by Cime Montolivo, Cime Chamineye, and Cime Lusiere. Above the latter rises the cone of Mont Clapier.
Refuge de Valmasque belongs to the CAF (Section Nice). It has 54 places and a guardian is in residence from mid-June to the end of September; meals available. (Tel CAF, Nice: 04 92 31 91 20).
Unless your plan is to make a cross-country journey to Refuge des Merveilles (see Walk 2), return by the same path as the upward route. Allow 1½hrs to the roadhead.
WALK 2
Refuge des Merveilles (2111m: 6926ft)
| Start |
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