100 Hut Walks in the Alps. Kev Reynolds
Refuge des Merveilles is one of the busiest of all huts in the Maritime Alps, thanks to the proximity of literally thousands of prehistoric rock engravings, a number of which are thought to have been chipped into slabs along the Vallée de Merveilles about 3000 BC. A search for some of these pictographs will add considerably to a visit to the Merveilles refuge, and time should be allowed for this. However, the hut approach in itself makes for a rewarding walk, for the scenery in the lower Vallée de la Minière is lush and pastoral, while the upper valley sparkles with tarns. If you plan to spend a night at the hut, you are advised to phone ahead to check that there’s room – especially in the main season and at weekends, when space is at a premium.
Refuge des Merveilles is one of the busiest of all huts in the Maritime Alps, thanks to the proximity of literally thousands of prehistoric rock engravings, a number of which are thought to have been chipped into slabs along the West of St-Dalmasde-Tende in the Vallée de la Roya, a narrow road (summer bus service) extends for 10km to Lac des Mesches where there are five parking ‘bays’ on the west side. The walk begins by a notice board at parking bay number 1, where a path rises into larchwoods and after some long switchbacks joins a rough jeep track by a National Park information office. Just beyond, on the right-hand side of the stream, stands Refuge Neige de Merveilles (20mins).
Follow the track upstream on the south side of the Vallée de la Minière, soon overlooking an attractive lake. A little over an hour after setting out enter the Mercantour National Park and continue rising gently among larchwoods for another half-hour until you reach a small stone hut by a left-hand hairpin. A trail breaks away from the track at this point offering a shorter, but more demanding, ascent and is recommended. It climbs a short distance, then cuts to the right before resuming the climb alongside some cascades. Rising among slabs, gain height through increasingly rocky terrain until you cross a minor ‘saddle’ and come to a path junction. Bear left and soon rejoin the track, which you follow into a region of tarns leading to the hut.
Lac Long and Refuge des Merveilles
Refuge des Merveilles has places for 75 and meals provision when it is manned – usually from mid-June to the end of September, and at weekends during school holiday periods. (Tel: 04 93 04 64 64, www.cafnice.org) Located on the south bank of Lac Long, it is linked with Refuge de Valmasque (see Walk 1) by a trail which crosses the Baisse de Valmasque at the head of the Merveilles valley.
To vary the return to Lac des Mesches, follow the track all the way (2hrs). This gives surprisingly fine views, especially in its upper reaches. But you should also allow a minimum of 2½hrs to explore part of the narrow Vallée des Merveilles northwest of the hut where many fine pictographs are to be found, then return along the north side of Lac Long to rejoin the track east of the refuge.
WALK 3
Refuge de Nice (2232m: 7323ft)
| Start | Pont de Countet (1692m: 5551ft) |
| Valley base | St-Martin-Vésubie |
| Distance | 9km (5½ miles) round trip |
| Total ascent | 540m (1772ft) |
| Time | 2–2½hrs up, 1¾hrs down |
| Map | Didier Richard 9 ‘Mercantour’ 1:50,000 |
Located in a rocky cirque at the head of the Vallon de la Gordolasque – a long tributary of the important Vésubie – Refuge de Nice is suited equally to climbers and trekkers. Peaks that rim the cirque offer a variety of routes, while the summit of Mont Clapier (3045m) rewards with one of the finest panoramas of the whole Maritime Alps. Since the hut is also on the route of the long-distance GR52, it’s well-used by trekkers, and by day visitors too who tackle the following route from the roadhead car park at Pont de Countet. It’s a fine walk which exchanges the gentle pastoral nature of the lower Gordolasque for the wild inner recesses of the mountains.
Vallon de la Gordolasque is gained by a serpentine road which climbs out of the Vésubie valley at Roquebillière to reach Belvédère village. Pont de Countet lies about 12km upvalley where there’s ample parking space. The path to the Nice hut begins by the bridge and heads along the left (west) side of the stream, and soon passes a small shepherd’s hut. Beyond this it weaves among huge boulders on which routes have been marked by a local climbing school, and about 20mins from the start comes to a junction of trails. The righthand option offers an alternative way to the hut via the so-called Murdes Italiens, and has a spur to Lac Autiers – a recommended walk for another day.
Remain on the left of the stream where the path tacks to and fro up long switchbacks over scree, in order to rise above huge smooth slabs that form a mid-valley barrier. Eventually gain a high point above the slabs and slope down slightly to stream level, where the alternative Mur des Italiens path rejoins ours. This is a brief respite only, for the way resumes climbing among slabs with cairns provided where the trail is a little indistinct. After topping another high point, the path then eases into a marshy meadow below a barrage behind which (unseen as yet) lies Lac de la Fous. On the far side of the meadow the path rises again to another junction at 2173m. The left-hand trail here crosses Pas du Mont Colomb and offers a way to neighbouring Refuge de la Madone de Fenestre, but we veer right along GR52 and soon gain a track on the west bank of Lac de la Fous. The Nice hut can be seen on a knoll above the northeast shore. Keep well above the lake, and at the far end cross a stream and climb directly to the hut.
Vallon de la Gordolasque, below Refuge de Nice
Owned by the CAF, Refuge de Nice has 90 places and meals provision when the guardian is in residence. This is usually from mid-June to end of September. (Tel: 04 93 04 62 74, www.cafnice.org).
Return to Pont de Countet either by the same route of approach, or descend by the steep, but straightforward, Mur des Italiens path.
WALK 4
Refuge de Cougourde (2090m: 6857ft)
| Start | Vallée du Boréon (1680m: 5512ft) |
| Valley base | St-Martin-Vésubie |
| Distance | 9km (5½ miles) in all |
| Total ascent | 470m (1542ft) |
| Time | 2hrs to the hut, 1hr down |
| Map | Didier Richard 9 ‘Mercantour’ 1:50,000 |
The standard approach to this hut is interesting enough, since it rises through a charming valley with a clear stream for