Shunju. Takashi Sugimoto
is slightly browned. Stir continuously with a wooden spatula to prevent the shoots burning on the bottom of the pan.
2 When the bamboo shoot batons are slightly browned, add bonito stock and bring to a boil. Lower the heat and simmer until most of the liquid is reduced. Add the sesame seeds, check for seasoning, and set aside to cool.
3 Place the washed rice and water in a stone pot, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. When it reaches a rolling boil, remove from the heat and leave to stand for 10 minutes. Then return to high heat for 5 minutes. This develops a delicious crunchy crust at the bottom of the pot. If you do not own a stone pot, cook the rice following the instructions on page 260. Allow to stand for 10 minutes, then heat over high heat for a further 5 minutes.
4 Open the lid and slowly drizzle sesame oil around the inside wall of the pot. Leave to stand for a few minutes, then add the sautéed bamboo shoot. Carry the stone pot to the table—be sure to wear thick oven gloves and use a stand or mat. to protect the table as the pot becomes extremely hot.
5 Stir the rice at the table and divide into individual rice bowls. Make sure that every bowl gets some of the deliciously pungent crunchy crust and some bamboo shoot batons.
Deep-fried bamboo shoots with dried bonito flakes
Takenoko no tosa age
Serves 4
1 egg
6-in (15-cm) takenoko (fresh bamboo shoots) (for preparation see page 253); substitute with vacuum-packed boiled whole bamboo shoot
2 tablespoons bai niku (salted plum paste)
1 1/2 cups (15 g) kezuri bushi (dried bonito flakes)
6 cups (1 1/2 liters) vegetable oil
8 kinome (young sansho leaves), to garnish
Zukushi is to indulge in one ingredient to prepare a full-course meal consisting entirely of that one food item. If you are fortunate enough to have access to fresh bamboo shoots, try preparing a full-course meal using bamboo shoots and prepare this dish for one of the courses.
1 Beat the egg in a bowl large enough for dipping the bamboo shoot slices.
2 Slice the bamboo shoot lengthwise into 4 wedges. Make a lengthwise incision on the thick part of the wedge, about 1/2 in (1 cm) deep. Using a knife, spread the salted plum paste into this incision.
3 Put the bonito shavings in a saucepan over low heat and crumple them with your hands so they dry further and break into fine pieces. Place in a flat container large enough to roll the bamboo shoot slices.
4 Pour the vegetable oil in a saucepan and heat to 325°F (160°C). Dip the bamboo shoot wedges into the egg and coat evenly. Next, coat each wedge evenly with the bonito shavings, then carefully slip into the oil and deep-fry. Turn the bamboo shoots occasionally so that they are fried evenly. When nicely browned, remove from the oil with a slotted spoon. Gently shake above the pan to remove any excess oil and drain on paper towels. Serve immediately, garnished with fresh kinome leaves.
Bamboo shoot sashimi
Takenoko no sashimi
Serves 4
4 teaspoons sake
8 teaspoons koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)
6-in (15-cm) takenoko (fresh bamboo shoots) (for preparation see page 253)
2 sprigs kinome (young sansho leaves), to garnish
1 teaspoon fresh wasabi, grated, substitute with frozen fresh or tube wasabi
Koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce), to accompany wasabi
The name of this recipe says sashimi but, in fact, the bamboo shoo" is not served raw. It is referred to as sashimi because this dish can only be made if you have freshly dug bamboo shoots, hence in the same context as having immaculately fresh seafood. The sweet flavor and crunchy texture is indescribable.
1 Pour sake into a saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat to boil off the alcohol content. Cool and combine with soy sauce. Set aside.
2 Slice the bamboo shoot length-wise into thin slices, about 3/4 in (2 cm) thick. Arrange on a serving platter and garnish with fresh kinome sprigs. Place the grated wasabi on the platter and serve with soy sauce in a separate dish.
Bamboo shoots braised with seaweed
Takenoko no wakame ni
Serves 4
12-in (30-cm) takenoko (fresh bamboo shoots, for preparation see page 253), substitute with vacuum-packed boiled whole bamboo shoot
3 cups (750 ml) katsuo dashi (bonito stock) (for preparation see page 248)
1/3 cup (90 ml) sake
1/3 cup (90 ml) mirin
1/3 cup (90 ml) usukuchi shoyu (light soy sauce)
2 teaspoons natural sea salt
10 oz (300 g) fresh wakame seaweed, substitute with dried wakame (reconstituted in cold water for several minutes) or salt preserved wakame (soaked in cold water for 1 hour)
This recipe is the most traditional and the most popular way to enjoy the spring delicacy, bamboo shoot. Although there is no real substitute for the delicate aroma and crunchy texture of fresh bamboo shoots, you may use vacuum-packed boiled whole bamboo shoots, sold in Japanese grocery stores, if the fresh variety is hard to come by.
1 Slice the top half of the bamboo shoot lengthwise into 6 wedges. Slice the tougher bottom half across in 3/4-in (2-cm) slices or, if the shoot is very thick, slice the round slices across in half to form semicircles.
2 Place the round (or semicircular) slices, bonito stock, and seasonings in a saucepan. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the bamboo shoot is slightly colored. Add the bamboo shoot wedges and simmer for another 1 hour.
3 Blanch the wakame briefly, drain, and place in the center of a serving bowl. Arrange the bamboo shoots on top and pour on some of the cooking liquid. Serve immediately.
Spring mountain vegetable tempura
Sansai no tempura
Serves 4
8 taranome (angelica tree shoots), about 3 oz (80 g)
8 urui (hosta shoots), about 1 oz (30 g)
8 nobiru (red garlic), about 1 oz (30 g)
8 fukinoto (unopened buds of Japanese butterbur), about 2 oz (65 g)
8 young green tea leaves
8 kogomi (fiddleheads), about 1 1/2 oz (50 g)
8 koshiabura (unopened buds of the L. acanthopanax sciadophylloides tree), about 1 oz (30 g)
4 cups (1 liter) vegetable oil
1 cup (100 g) all-purpose (plain) flour, for dusting
Natural sea salt to taste
Batter