Shunju. Takashi Sugimoto
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Serves 4
Green tofu
2/3 cup (150 ml) green soymilk (see page 255)
1 teaspoon nigari (bittern), see Note
Lavender tofu
2/3 cup (150 ml) black soymilk (see page 255)
1 teaspoon nigari (bittern), see Note
Condiments
2 2/3 oz (80 g) naga negi (long welsh onion), cut in thin slivers and refreshed in cold water (see page 251), substitute with white part of scallion (spring onion)
1 1/3 oz (40 g) shiso (perilla) leaves, cut in thin slivers and refreshed in cold water (see page 251)
Koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)
4 masu or square wooden boxes (83 x 83 x 57 mm)
Tofu is undoubtedly one of the most representative dishes of Shunju. Our tofu is made daily—soymilk is curdled with nigari (bittern)—in different ware unique to each of our five restaurants; in this case in masu (traditional square, wooden measuring cups). We had discovered a delicious handmade tofu in Kyoto, but despite the availability of (costly) refrigerated transportation, there was simply no comparison to the taste of freshly made and delivered tofu. The only answer to our dilemma was the usual Shunju spirit of "whatever is unavailable, we make or find ourselves," hence our latest tofu recipe using soy milk extracted from green and black soybeans.
1 Prepare the basic soymilk by following steps 1 through 8 on page 254, substituting green and then black soybeans for the regular soybeans. The soymilk recipe on page 254 yields more than is needed for this dish, so either make more for a large dinner, or make only one color at a time.
2 Pour the soymilk into a saucepan and heat over medium heat. Stir continuously with a wooden or bamboo spatula, scraping the bottom of the pan as you do it, to prevent the milk from burning.
3 When the soymilk reaches 140°F (60°C), pour it into the bamboo container, add nigari and stir quickly. Remove the spoon once the soymilk starts to coagulate. Chill in the refrigerator.
4 Place the refreshed welsh onion and shiso leaf slivers in a small dish and serve with the soy sauce as a condiment.
Note: Nigari (bittern) is the coagulent used to make tofu. Traditionally, it is made from the residue (magnesium chloride) of the salt-making process but, today, chemical coagulents are usually used. Natural (and artificial) nigari is available from Japanese grocery stores or you can make your own by boiling down 3 quarts (3 liters) of seawater over high heat for about 2 hours until salt crystals start to appear. When the crystals start to gather into larger crystals, the liquid on the top is the nigari. This method will yield about 4 1/2 tablespoons nigari. Cool in the pot, then scoop the surface of the settled nigari, and pour through a fine sieve lined with paper towel or cheese cloth. If you do not live by the ocean, dissolve 1 1/2 teaspoons Epsom salts in 1 cup (250 ml) water and use about one-third of this solution.
Green bean soymilk yuba
Ryokuto nama yuba
Serves 4
Pinch natural sea salt
13 1/2 oz (420 g) endomame (shelled green peas), substitute with edamame (podded green soybeans) or soramame (fava/broad beans)
5 cups (1 1/4 liters) homemade soymilk (see page 254)
2 tablespoons fresh wasabi, substitute with frozen fresh or tube wasabi
Koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)
Yuba, a famous Kyoto delicacy is the film that forms on the surface when soymilk is heated, somewhat akin to the film which form son the surface of heated milk. This film absorbs the majority of the protein contained in soymilk and, at over 52 percent, is the richest source of protein known to exist. Nearly all fresh yuba is produced in Kyoto but due to its labor intensive method of production and the high refrigerated transportation costs, it tends to be very expensive. At Shunju, we are able to make our own yuba because of the abundant amount of soymilk that we extract for our home-made tofu. In this recipe, we have made our own green version with a green bean pureé. It will keep refrigerated for one day.
1 Bring a pan of salted water to a boil and cook the shelled green peas until tender. Drain.
2 Transfer the peas to a blender and add one-quarter of the soymilk. Blend until the peas are finely ground. Pour the mixture through a fine sieve and mash any remaining bits. Pour scant 1/2 cup (100 ml) of this green soymilk into a flat non-reactive container (such as tupperware) and set aside.
3 Pour the rest of the green soymilk mixture and the remaining plain soymilk into a pot and heat over medium heat, scraping the bottom of the pot, to prevent it from burning. When it reaches 176°F (80°C), remove from the heat and wait for the yuba to form on the surface. You can leave it and check on it from time to time. (See page 254.)
4 Lift the film out carefully with chopsticks and soak in the reserved green soymilk. Make sure that the surface of the film is completely coated to prevent it from drying out. Heat the soymilk again and repeat this procedure until no more yuba forms. Discard remaining soymilk.
5 Cover the yuba soaking in the green soymilk with plastic wrap or a lid, and chill in the refrigerator. Serve chilled with freshly grated wasabi and soy sauce (see page 255).
Sea bream salad
Tai no kaisen salada
Serves 1
1/2 kyuri (Japanese cucumber), about 1 1/2 oz (20 g); substitute with English cucumber
1/2 small carrot about 2/3 oz (20 g)
3/4-oz (20-g) naga negi (long welsh onion), substitute with white part of scallion (spring onion)
2 1/4 oz (70 g) radish
6 1/2 oz (200 g) sea bream
1 egg/lightly beaten
Oil for preparing omelet
Salad dressing
1 /2 clove garlic
Pinch minced ginger
3/4 oz (20 g) naga negi (long welsh onion), substitute with white part of scallion (spring onion)
1 heaped tablespoon kochujang (Korean red chili paste), or to taste
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
Pinch natural sea salt
3 tablespoons ponzu sauce (available bottled, or see recipe below)
Ponzu sauce
5 tablespoons sake
1 1/2 cups (360 ml) koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce)
1 1/2 cups (360 ml) fresh or bottled kabosu juice (a kind of citrus, L. citrus sphaerocarpa), substitute with fresh lemon juice
1 handful kezuri bushi (dried bonito flakes)
2 sudachi (small acidic citrus fruit), halved, substitute with lemons
4 x 7-in (10 x 18-cm) sheet konbu (kelp), gently wiped clean (leaving the flavorful white powder on the konbu)
Tangy and light, this refreshing dish is perfect for spring. If you live in Japan, be sure to ask for tennen dal (wild sea bream). Although it is more expensive than the normal farmed sea bream (tai), you will taste the difference. You can