Scotland's Best Small Mountains. Kirstie Shirra
is the Scottish wildcat.
Scotland being home to over 400 breeding pairs of golden eagles, you may also find one of them soaring above your head. Then there is the white-tailed, or sea, eagle, the UK’s biggest bird of prey, with a wingspan of eight feet (two and a half metres!). Following recent reintroduction of these magnificent creatures, there are now around 40 breeding pairs, with the best chance of seeing them being on Mull, on the Small Isles and in the adjacent west coast hills.
Wild goats
The summit of Beinn Ghoblach with Scoraig peninsula beyond
On the coast there are otters and grey and common seals to spot. Porpoise and bottlenose dolphins are often found in coastal waters too and if you are really lucky you may be able to spot minke whale, basking shark, or even the distinctive black and white form of an orca. Ferry journeys from the mainland to the islands or specialised boat trips offer the best opportunities to spot marine wildlife.
The History of Scotland
Scotland is also rich in both natural and human history. From some of the world’s oldest rocks to some of the most famous battles, the landscape and culture of Scotland has been shaped over the years by both climate and human activities.
The geographical entity that is now Scotland came into being 40 million years ago, when the continents of North America, of which Scotland was a part, and Europe collided. Many of the rocks and landforms that shape Scotland were formed much earlier, however, through the collision of tectonic plates, glaciation and weather. The Lewisian Gneiss rock of the Northwest Highlands that Scotland shares with North America is 3000 million years old.
The human history of Scotland is clearly much more recent but no less turbulent. From the Picts of Caledonia and the formation of the original Alba, then the wars of independence and Viking marauders, to the Jacobite uprisings and the Highland Clearances, people have long fought and died over the hills and glens of Scotland. The Pict, Gaelic, Norse, Scots and English names that pepper the landscape are evidence of the many waves of settlers.
This guide will tell you all about Scotland’s natural and human history as you walk through the landscapes they have formed. Each route reveals something of the people and places, features and events, both past and present, of each of Scotland’s best small mountains. From Rob Roy and Jacobite hideouts to battlefields and abandoned villages, Scotland’s history is out there to discover.
Getting there
Train travel from Europe and the rest of the UK is straightforward via the east- and west-coast mainlines, travelling to Edinburgh and Glasgow respectively. Both lines originate in London, making it easy to connect to and from Eurostar services. For train information within the UK, visit www.thetrainline.com; for Eurostar see www.eurostar.com.
There are ferry services to Scotland from Northern Ireland and Belgium. Stena Line runs a ferry service between Cairnryan in Scotland and Belfast in Northern Ireland (www.stenaline.co.uk), and P&O run services from Cairnryan and Troon to and from Larne in Northern Ireland (www.poferries.com).
There are also many international and national flights to Scotland’s major airports – Glasgow, Edinburgh, Glasgow–Prestwick and Aberdeen. In addition there are a number of national flights to the smaller airports of Inverness and Dundee.
More details of how to reach Scotland from overseas can be found at www.visitscotland.com/travel/to-scotland/overseas.
Getting around
Within Scotland, most places can be reached by public transport, via trains, buses and ferries. Scotland’s train services are operated by Scotrail (www.scotrail.co.uk) with the West Highland line from Glasgow to Mallaig proving particularly useful for accessing the mountains. Most of the ferries to the Scottish islands are operated by Caledonian MacBrayne (www.calmac.co.uk). There are also many bus operators with good services linking Scotland’s major towns and cities and, usually, less frequent services in rural areas. Details of public transport to access the mountains in this guide are given in each route description. For details of public transport options across Scotland see www.travelinescotland.com or call them on 0871 200 22 33.
Given the remoteness of much of the Scottish Highlands, there are some mountains that can only be reached by car. There are car rental agencies at all the major airports, as well as in most large towns and cities.
Accommodation
A wide range of accommodation to suit differing budgets is available in most of the areas covered in this guide, although sometimes it may be a drive or bus journey from an individual route. With tourism such an important part of Scotland’s rural economy, most towns and villages have hotels or guest houses, and there are large numbers of B&Bs and self-catering cottages spread throughout the Highlands. There are also many formal campsites, and responsible wild camping well away from roads is often permitted (if in doubt check with the landowner).
For details of accommodation in Scotland contact the Scottish Tourist Board www.visitscotland.com/accommodation.
Weather
It is fair to say that the Scottish weather does not always enjoy a good reputation! With prevailing westerly winds bringing rain off the Atlantic, the Scottish hills can certainly be wet and blustery places. Low cloud can even lead to some visitors wondering where the hills actually are. That said, on a sunny, clear day, of which there are many, there is no finer place to be and you will appreciate it all the more.
Check the weather forecast before you go and be prepared for the right conditions. Always carry waterproofs and spare warm clothing – even in mid-summer the weather in the mountains can change rapidly and the higher you go the colder it gets. The Mountain Weather Information Service provides good daily mountain forecasts for the different upland regions of Scotland www.mwis.org.uk.
When to go
The routes given in this guide have been described with spring, summer and autumn conditions in mind. While some would provide a pleasant winter excursion, the longer and steeper routes could be very challenging in winter.
The summer school holidays in Scotland are earlier than in England, running from the beginning of July to mid-August. During this period places are busier and accommodation is often more expensive. May, June and September are quieter and often have good spells of weather.
The summer months are also the time of midges, Scotland’s infamous small biting insects. While they are unlikely to bother you on a very sunny or on a very windy day, in damp, still conditions they can become pretty unbearable – thankfully it is often windy on Scotland’s hills! They can also be avoided by visiting in the spring or autumn.
Sgurr an Fhidhleir and Stac Pollaidh from Ben More Coigach
Taking in the view on Sgurr Dhomhnuill
Winter walking
The mountains in winter can be very different places from during the summer. Check route details and conditions carefully