Tour of the Oisans: The GR54. Kev Reynolds
last part of the climb to Col de la Muzelle (2625m) on the penultimate stage can be brutal under certain conditions, but after a night spent in Refuge de la Muzelle a fairly short and undemanding ascent leads to the final pass, Col du Vallon, which carries the route over the mountains and down to the beautiful Lac Lauvitel – one of the highlights of the Tour of the Oisans. Below the lake it's just a valley walk to Bourg d'Oisans and the end of the trek.
All the above follows the ‘official’ GR54 route of the Tour of the Oisans, but several alternative stages (variantes) exist, both official and unofficial, some of which are described as options within the main body of the text.
Roche de la Muzelle towers above both refuge and lake (Stage 9)
Suggested Itineraries
The route as described in this guide is set out in 10 stages, but that is not to suggest that this itinerary will suit everyone, so an alternative tour of 13 stages is also offered. Both these itineraries are set out below as an aid to planning. However, with a variety of accommodation being available throughout much of the route, a flexible approach is recommended to take account of current conditions. It should be feasible to create your own itinerary with the accommodation and timing information provided.
Note i Accommodation details are given within the route descriptions, along with contact telephone numbers where known, and are also listed in sequential order as Appendix A.
Note ii Please note that times given do not include rests or photographic delays, for which you should add another 25–50 percent.
A 10-day Tour
Stage 1 Bourg d'Oisans to Besse-en-Oisans via Col de Sarenne (assuming arrival the day before, and a night spent in Bourg) – 7½–8hrs
Stage 2 Besse-en-Oisans to La Grave via Cols Nazié, Bichet and du Souchet – 6–6½2hrs
Stage 3 La Grave to Monêtier-les-Bains via Col d'Arsine – 8hrs
Stage 4 Monêtier-les-Bains to Vallouise via Col de l'Eychauda – 6½–7hrs
Stage 5 Vallouise to Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette via Col de l'Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale – 8½–9hrs
Stage 6 Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar via Cols de la Vallette, de Gouiran and de Vallonpierre – 8½–9hrs
Or
Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar via Vallon d'Isola and Col de Vallonpierre – 9hrs
Stage 7 La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar to Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey via Col de la Vaurze – 8hrs
Stage 8 Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey to Valsenestre via Col de Côte Belle – 4½–5hrs
Stage 9 Valsenestre to Refuge de la Muzelle via Col de la Muzelle – 5½–6hrs
Or
Valsenestre to Bourg d'Arud via Col de la Muzelle – 7½–8hrs
Stage 10 Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Col du Vallon – 7½hrs
Or Bourg d'Arud to Bourg d'Oisans – 4hrs
Lit by the alpenglow, Le Sirac is reflected in Lac de Vallonpierre (Stage 6)
A 13-day Tour
Stage 1 Bourg d'Oisans to Clavans-le-Bas via Col de Sarenne – 6½hrs
Or
Huez to Clavans-le-Bas via Col de Sarenne – 4hrs (+ bus from Bourg d'Oisans to Huez)
Stage 2 Clavans-le-Bas to Le Chazelet via Cols Nazié, Bichet and du Souchet – 6½–7hrs
Stage 3 Le Chazelet to Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne – 4½hrs
Stage 4 Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne to Monêtier-les-Bains via Col d'Arsine – 4hrs
Stage 5 Monêtier-les-Bains to Vallouise via Col de l'Eychauda – 6½–7hrs
Stage 6 Vallouise to Refuge des Bans – 4½hrs
Stage 7 Refuge des Bans to Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette via Col de l'Aup Martin and Pas de la Cavale – 7–7½hrs
Stage 8 Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to Refuge de Vallonpierre via Cols de la Vallette, de Gouiran and de Vallonpierre – 4½–5hrs
Or
Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette to Refuge de Vallonpierre via Vallon d'Isola and Col de Vallonpierre – 5½hrs
Stage 9 Refuge de Vallonpierre to Refuge des Souffles via La Chapelle-en-Valgaudemar – 7½–8hrs
Stage 10 Refuge des Souffles to Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey via Col de la Vaurze – 4½hrs
Stage 11 Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey to Valsenestre via Col de Côte Belle – 4½–5hrs
Stage 12 Valsenestre to Refuge de la Muzelle via Col de la Muzelle – 5½–6hrs
Stage 13 Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Col du Vallon – 7½hrs
Or
Refuge de la Muzelle to Bourg d'Oisans via Bourg d'Arud – 6–6½hrs
Accommodation
Accommodation is plentiful on the Tour of the Oisans, allowing a variety of other itineraries to be devised, although there are long sections of route where there's no habitation at all. There are hotels (usually ungraded, or one- or two-star), modestly priced gîtes d'étape and atmospheric mountain refuges (huts), most of the latter being situated in remote and romantic locations, which can add much to one's experience of the trek. Gîtes d'étape may be described as being on a par with private youth hostels, low-key and very relaxed, and geared to the needs of outdoor enthusiasts. The standard type of sleeping accommodation on offer – apart from in hotels – will be mixed dormitories. As meals are provided in virtually every case (on the rare occasions where this is not so, self-catering facilities are usually available), walkers can trek unencumbered by heavy rucksacks.
The Valsenestre gîte (Stage 8)
The chalet-style Refuge de la Muzelle (Stage 9)
HUT CONVENTIONS
In the region through which the Tour of the Oisans is trekked, the CAF (Club Alpin Française) – which owns most of the refuges – rules that accommodation must be booked in advance. Telephone numbers are given throughout this guide to enable you to phone ahead.
On arrival at a refuge remove boots and leave them (with your trekking poles) in the porch or boot room, and select a pair of special hut shoes or clogs usually provided – or wear your own trainers indoors.
Locate the gardien to announce your arrival, and book whatever meals are required.
When allocated bedspace go to the dormitory and make your bed, using the sheet sleeping bag carried for the occasion. Have a torch handy, as the room may not be lit when you need to go there after dark.
Snacks and drinks are normally available during the day, but meals are served at set times. Lunch food to carry with you is often available. Food should not be taken into dormitories.
It is customary to pay for all services (in cash only) the night before you leave.
Note that reductions on overnight