Tour of the Oisans: The GR54. Kev Reynolds
European Alpine Clubs, and to BMC members who have purchased a reciprocal rights card.
How to Get There
By air
Air travel is notoriously vulnerable to change, so readers are advised to check the current situation either through a local travel agent, or by browsing the Internet.
Grenoble is the most convenient airport for the Oisans region, with low-price flights via Easyjet (from London Gatwick, Birmingham and Bristol), and Ryanair (from Stansted). To check the current timetables and availability visit www.easyjet.com and www.ryanair.com
Grenoble airport is just 30mins by bus from the city centre. Buses go directly to the central bus station (Gare routière), which is located next to the railway station.
By train
Modern high-speed trains offer a viable – albeit more expensive – alternative to air travel. Eurostar takes about 3hrs for the journey from London St Pancras to Paris (Gare du Nord) via the Channel Tunnel, and the TGV service connects Paris (Gare du Lyon) with Grenoble in 2hrs 55mins.
By local bus
In summer a daily, but infrequent, bus service carries passengers from Grenoble to Bourg d'Oisans in 1hr 20mins. For information visit www.transisere.fr. The bus station in Bourg is located on the northern approach, a short walk from the town centre.
When to Go
With the likelihood of snow either lying on the highest cols or on the approach to them until early summer, the Tour of the Oisans should be avoided until at least the middle of July. Even then there will be some years when late snow or ice could create serious difficulties. Anyone planning to tackle the route before the end of July might consider carrying an ice axe – and know how to use it to halt an involuntary slide.
The peak summer holiday period in France usually falls between 15 July and late August, when there will be maximum competition for accommodation. If this is the only time you can take your holiday, plan well ahead and book your accommodation in advance. Although the area attracts plenty of summer visitors, the number of walkers tackling the Tour of the Oisans does not compare with those on the Tour of Mont Blanc, but individual trails – such as those across the Plateau d'Emparis and around the Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arêne – are likely to be busy compared with some of the more remote sections of the route.
Early September often sees the most settled weather, although the effects of climate change now make predictions unreliable. September will certainly have fewer visitors and there will be long periods without any other trekkers in view. Refuges and gîtes should be much quieter, except at weekends, and a few late varieties of alpine flowers will brighten the meadows.
The Vallée du Valgaudemar lies 1500m below the Col de la Vaurze (Stage 7)
In some years an Indian summer spreads into October to bring crisp frosty nights and sharp blue-sky days. Although difficult to predict in advance, this could be a magical time to make the trek round the Oisans. However, accommodation would be a problem, for some of the valley hotels would have closed and refuge gardiens will have deserted the high places, leaving only a winter room open for visitors who would need to provide all their own food. On the other hand, most gîtes d'étape remain open for most, if not all, the year.
To summarise: the safest time (weather and accommodation-wise) to tackle the Tour of the Oisans is from mid-July to the middle of September.
Notes for Walkers
As has already been stressed, the Tour of the Oisans is tougher and more demanding than most other multi-day treks in Europe, and although it is a walk which requires no technical mountaineering skills, scrambling ability, sure-footedness and a good ‘head for heights’ (no history of vertigo) will be called for. The Massif des Écrins is one of the most challenging of Alpine environments, and no one should accept the challenge of this route lightly.
Most of the trails are clearly defined, straightforward and well maintained. But there are also numerous narrow and exposed sections on which great care should be exercised. Even the most undemanding of paths can become hazardous when transformed by rain, snowmelt or a glaze of ice, and several stages travel through rough and remote country where a minor accident could have serious consequences.
Happily, the frequency of accommodation with meals provided effectively limits the need to carry a heavy rucksack (unless you plan to camp along the way). Even so, the very first stage offers a brutal introduction to the Tour of the Oisans, so in order to gain the maximum enjoyment from the route do yourself a favour and get ‘mountain fit’ before leaving home. The most effective way of doing this is by walking uphill (as much uphill as possible), carrying a rucksack.
A warning to walkers seen near Refuge de Vallonpierre (Stage 6)
Once you've begun the trek don't be intimidated by the steepness of the way ahead, or by the perceived difficulties of the next col to be crossed. Remain alert to possible dangers, but as you do so settle into a comfortable pace and take time to soak up the views, the sounds and scents of the journey. Make your Tour of the Oisans an experience of the senses that you can recall years later. Unless the weather is threatening, or you are running short of time, allow yourself a few minutes every hour or so to sit on a rock and contemplate the peace and natural beauty that are among the gifts of this route. You'll not regret it.
Clear signing in the Vallon de Chambran (Stage 4)
Please be considerate when making a toilet stop during the day. Keep well away from water sources, burn used toilet paper, and bury faeces as effectively as possible. Remote buildings or ruins should not be used as public conveniences; they could serve as a shelter from storm for yourself and other walkers. Please leave no litter, but take packaging with you for proper disposal in a village en route.
Equipment
The choice of clothing and equipment for a trek like this can be crucial to your comfort and enjoyment. Weight will be an important factor. Carry too much and the uphills will seem longer and steeper and you will quickly tire, so think carefully and pare your load down to the very minimum. With plenty of versatile, durable lightweight equipment available (if you can afford it), there's no point in using a heavier alternative.
Unless you're camping you can dispense with a conventional sleeping bag, but a sheet sleeping bag (sleeping bag liner) should be used in gîtes and mountain refuges where blankets and pillows are provided. Silk bags are much lighter and pack smaller than the cotton variety. One complete change of clothing should suffice, for you can usually wash and dry clothes overnight, and you ought to be able to keep your rucksack weight down to around 8–10kg. (During my latest walking of the Tour of the Oisans I met Judith Armstrong who, that year, trekked almost 6500km in the Alps carrying a base load of some 5kg.)
The descent to Le Désert rewards with a view of peaks guarding the upper Valjouffrey (Stage 7)
The following list is offered as a rough guide to what you need to take. Non-essential items, which you might consider taking, include a camera (essential to some, so keep it lightweight) and a notebook and pen to record your experiences. More and more walkers opt for a GPS, so if you are one of these you will no doubt want to carry one. An altimeter could be useful. Trainers or sandals may be considered for indoor wear in hotels, gîtes and mountain refuges, and a mobile phone for emergencies – but note that it may be unusable on large sections of the route, and you may have difficulty recharging it. Many walkers like to have a paperback novel to