Walking on Rum and the Small Isles. Peter Edwards
Walk 12 Around the coast of Muck
Walk 14 Ben Hogh and the Breachacha castles
Walk 16 Tiree’s west coast and three highest points
APPENDIX A Route summary table
Wild goats at Harris Bay, Ruinsival in the background (Walk 3, Day 2)
Climbing to the Bealach Bairc-mheall, from Coire Dubh (Walk 1)
INTRODUCTION
Askival, with Ainshval beyond from the summit of Hallival (Walk 1)
The wild, beautiful and remote Small Isles lie scattered off Scotland’s Atlantic coast, north of Ardnamurchan, west of Morar, south of Skye and east of the Outer Hebridean isles of Barra and South Uist. To the south-west, the Small Isles’ near neighbours, Coll and Tiree – the Hebridean Twins, lie to the west of Mull. The Small Isles, Coll and Tiree provide the adventurous walker with a fine and diverse range of walking, from the towering peaks of the Rum Cuillin to the dunes and machair pastures of low-lying Tiree.
Many of the routes in this guidebook are coastal walks traversing extremely varied terrain, from rugged, rocky shores and vertiginous cliffs to vast expanses of flower-carpeted machair and white sandy beaches. These coastal landscapes teem with wildlife, and with remarkable geological features, including raised beaches, caves, natural arches, sea stacks and basalt dikes. Many traces of the islands’ histories, both ancient and more recent, are found around these coastlines, from Bronze Age duns (fortifications) perched on rocky promontories to abandoned settlements, mute testaments to the Highland Clearances.
Natural arch north-east of Guirdil Bay (Walk 3, Day 2)
The Small Isles are often referred to as the ‘hidden gems’ of the Western Isles – and with good cause. Although blessed with great natural beauty, the islands tend to be overlooked, literally and metaphorically, by the many visitors drawn to the famously scenic grandeur of Skye, their renowned and imposing neighbour.
The relative dearth of visitors is partly due to the Small Isles having few roads or metalled tracks and visitors only being allowed to bring vehicles by special arrangement. Furthermore, although the islands’ amenities are generally excellent, they are far from extensive. Therefore, planning a walking trip to the Small Isles requires a degree of logistical forethought – just getting here can be an undertaking in itself.
The upside is the real sense of remoteness that is found among the hills, along the rugged coastlines and beach-garlanded shores of these wonderful islands; they are a haven for those who like to get away from the madding crowd and enjoy the peace and freedom of walking through landscapes unaffected by large-scale tourism.
The Small Isles are appositely named; Rum, the largest of the group, is just 14km (8½ miles) north to south by 13.5km (8½ miles) east to west. Yet this relatively small area offers remarkable scope for the adventurous and experienced walker. Given the relative size of the island and the range of excellent walking available, Rum is the main focus of this guidebook, with extensive sections on the fascinating geology, history and wildlife of the island.
When to go
Rain over Canna seen from Guirdil bothy, Rum (Walks 3 and 5)
In late spring, summer and early autumn you are more likely to benefit from mild weather. May and June tend to be the finest months, although rain – often torrential – can be a feature at any time of year. During the milder months the highly aggressive island midge abounds in alarming numbers on Rum and Eigg, less so on the breezier islands. Deer ticks are also most active in warmer weather. If properly protected against rain, midges and ticks (see What to take), late spring through to autumn provides the longest days, useful if you're attempting a round of the Rum Cuillin or when staying at remote bothies. Obviously there are more visitors at these times of year; you're more likely to encounter other walkers, and the bothies and bays are also visited by intrepid sea-kayakers.
In winter you’re almost guaranteed to have the islands’ hinterlands to yourself, but you'll have very short days and wild weather is a strong possibility. But it can be surprisingly mild in winter, thanks to the benign influence of the Gulf Stream, and if you’re lucky you might enjoy some crystal-clear, sunlit winter days. The terrain can be very boggy in winter, with December and January being the wettest months on the islands. Crossing burns and rivers can be hazardous when they are in spate after heavy rain. Before setting out to walk in winter, ensure you are properly equipped and let others know your planned route.
Getting there
Travellers to Scotland’s west coast usually come via Glasgow. Trains from the south come into Glasgow Central. Trains for Mallaig, Oban and the islands leave from Glasgow Queen Street, a ten minute walk from Glasgow Central. (You can catch a shuttle bus or taxi between the stations. To get from one to the other on foot, leave Central via the main entrance into Gordon Street, turn right (east) along Gordon Street, continue across Union Street and Mitchell Street into Buchanan Street. Turn left (north) and continue until you reach St Vincent Place. Cross St Vincent Place here, turn right and follow the left-hand (north) side of St Vincent Place till you reach George Square. Turn left and continue to the crossing on West George Street. Cross West George Street and continue up a slight slope and then steps into the Queen Street station concourse.)
The Small Isles are usually accessed from Mallaig. Coll and Tiree are reached by ferry from Oban.
Glasgow to Mallaig
By train
The direct service between Glasgow Queen Street and Mallaig takes 5hrs 20mins. The train connects with the Saturday afternoon sailing in summer. Take the train the previous evening to connect with the early ferries. Alternatively, it is possible to take the train from Fort William to Mallaig to connect with some ferry crossings on the morning of departure. See www.scotrail.co.uk for timetable information.
By road
Take the A82 from Glasgow (or the Erskine Bridge, if bypassing Glasgow on the M8) towards Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Keep to the A82 until Fort William. From Fort William, continue west along the A830 to Mallaig. The drive takes around 3½–4hrs. Long stay parking is available free of charge around the bay in Mallaig.
By bus