Walking on Rum and the Small Isles. Peter Edwards
Citylink operates a coach service between Glasgow and Mallaig, changing at Fort William, taking around 5hrs. Travel to Mallaig the evening before to make the early morning ferry. Alternatively, it is possible to take the coach from Fort William to Mallaig to connect with the ferry on the morning of departure. Consult the relevant timetables at www.citylink.co.uk or contact the travel centre at Buchanan Street Bus Station on 0141 332 7133.
Glasgow to Oban
By train
The direct train service between Glasgow Queen Street and Oban takes around 3hrs 5mins. Except for the Tuesday service in summer, it is necessary to take the train to Oban the previous evening to make the early ferry departure. See www.scotrail.co.uk for timetable information.
By road
Take the A82 from Glasgow (or the Erskine Bridge, if bypassing Glasgow on the M8) towards Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. Keep to the A82 until Tyndrum. At Tyndrum head west along the A85, passing through Dalmally then along the north shore of Loch Awe, through Taynuilt and along the south shore of Loch Etive before arriving at Oban in around 2½–3hrs.
By bus
Scottish Citylink Coaches operates an extensive bus service between Glasgow and Oban that takes around 3hrs. Except for the Tuesday service in summer, it is necessary to take the coach to Oban the previous evening to make the early morning ferry departure. Consult the relevant timetables at www.citylink.co.uk or contact the Travel Centre at Buchanan Street Bus Station on 0141 332 7133.
Boarding the MV Lochnevis, Canna
Caledonian MacBrayne operates the principal ferry service from Mallaig to Rum and the Small Isles every day except Sunday, year round.
Ferries and flights
Rum
In summer there is one crossing a day Monday–Thursday, with two crossings on Friday and Saturday. In winter there is one crossing a day. The crossing takes 1hr 15mins direct, 3hrs 40mins via Eigg and Muck and 3hrs 20mins via Canna.
Eigg
In summer there is one crossing a day to Eigg Monday–Friday (no sailing on Wednesdays) with two crossings on Saturdays. In winter there is one crossing a day with no crossings on Tuesdays and Thursdays. The crossing takes 1hr 20mins direct and up to 5hrs via Canna, Rum and Muck.
Muck
In summer there is one crossing a day to Muck on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Fridays and two crossings on Saturdays. In winter there is one crossing a day on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. The crossing takes 2hrs via Eigg and 4hrs 50mins via Canna and Rum.
Canna
The dramatic cliff top of Am Beannan on Canna with north-west Rum beyond (Walk 10)
In summer there is one crossing a day to Canna on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and two crossings on Saturdays. In winter there is one crossing a day on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays only. The crossing takes 2hrs 5mins direct and 3hrs 55mins via Eigg and Rum.
There are various crossings between the islands on the outward and inward sailings from and to Mallaig. Visit www.calmac.co.uk for timetable details or call the port office in Mallaig on 01687 462403. Bicycles are carried free of charge. Cars are only permitted for residents.
A ferry service is also run by Arisaig Marine, which operates the MV Sheerwater between Arisaig and the Small Isles during the summer months. For details visit www.arisaig.co.uk or call 01687 450224.
AquaXplore operate a fast RIB (rigid inflatable boat) service from Elgol on Skye to Rum and Canna. Advance booking recommended. Tel 01471 866244.
Coll and Tiree
Caledonian MacBrayne operates the car ferry service between Oban, Arinagour (Coll) and Scarinish (Tiree). There is one crossing each day in summer, Monday–Sunday, with an extra service from Barra in the Outer Hebrides on Thursdays. In winter the service is reduced to one crossing a day on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays only. You can also take the ferry between Coll and Tiree, which is a journey of around an hour.
The crossing from Oban to Coll takes between 2½hrs and 3hrs (depending on the vessel).
The crossing from Oban to Tiree goes via Coll and takes between 3½hrs and 4hrs (depending on the vessel).
Check the Caledonian MacBrayne website – www.calmac.co.uk – for timetables or call the port office at Oban on 01631 566688.
Flybe fly to and from Tiree from Glasgow Airport every day except Sunday; flights take approximately 50mins: www.flybe.com. Hebridean Airways fly to and from Tiree from Connel Airport near Oban on Monday, Wednesday and some Fridays. Flights take 35mins direct or 1hr via Colonsay: www.hebrideanair.co.uk, or Tel 01236 780120.
Maps, route finding and access
Heading north-east along the coast of Rum, Bloodstone Hill in the background (Walk 3, Day 3)
This guidebook includes detailed descriptions of 16 coastal and hill routes on these often rugged and sublimely beautiful islands. Some of the walks included here have not appeared in any previous guide: none of them with the Ordnance Survey route maps and detailed route descriptions in this guidebook. These are mostly demanding routes in terms of the terrain, length of route or both. The terrain covered is extremely varied, often challenging and mostly without waymarks or established footpaths. But the rewards are plentiful, as these routes traverse some breathtakingly beautiful scenery alive with a profusion of plants and wildlife and full of historical interest.
Maps
Climbing above the cliff tops at Sgorr Reidh (Walk 3, Day 2)
It is essential that you have the appropriate maps for the walks described in this guidebook. There are few waymarks, signposts or paths of any kind, making accurate route finding all the more important. A degree of navigational proficiency is indispensable.
This guide incorporates Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 mapping with highlighted routes. These should be used in conjunction with OS Explorer 1:25,000 maps because of their greater topographic detail. Do not rely solely on the maps in this guidebook as it is essential that you are able to ascertain your position in the wider context, should you need to abandon your walk and make for the nearest road or habitation. The walks described in this guidebook are covered by the following Ordnance Survey maps:
OS Explorer 1:25,000 sheet 397 Rum, Eigg, Muck, Canna and Sanday
OS Explorer 1:25,000 sheet 372 Coll and Tiree
OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 39 Rum, Eigg, Muck and Canna
OS Landranger 1:50,000 sheet 46 Coll and Tiree
A compass is indispensable and a ‘wristwatch’ altimeter is also very useful for navigation, especially on the hills of Rum. It’s not quite so easy to get lost when walking along the island coastlines, but it is important that you know exactly where you are, especially in poor weather or visibility and if for any reason you need to head inland from the coast.
Access
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