101 Hikes in Northern California. Matt Heid
bluffs along the beach expose the variegated hues of intensely deformed rocks. While part of the Franciscan Complex, they have been more heavily metamorphosed than similar exposures found farther north in California, as a result of the numerous northwest-trending faults associated with the San Andreas Fault, which slice apart the Big Sur region and intensely shear the adjacent rock. The rare mineral almondite is exposed in places, coloring the white sand purple where it has eroded onto the beach. Rounded granite stones are also present, washed down from the Santa Lucia Mountains.
Sea lions, seals, and even sea otters can sometimes be spotted offshore as you go (barefoot) up the beach. Crowds diminish and rocky points hem in secluded stretches of sand as you continue, eventually reaching the junction for Spring Trail, your access to the return route on the bluffs above.
Eighty feet of climbing up a narrow gully brings you to Bluff Trail—go left back the direction you came. Coyote brush, poison hemlock, California poppies, and more lupine cover the open blufftops along the trail back toward the Creamery. At the bluffs’ end, the trail intersects Ridge Trail—go left again, immediately dropping down to a wide dirt road. Bearing left here returns you to the Beach Trail. Turning right down the road takes you winding along the opposite side of the Creamery close to several large coast live oaks, before the road rejoins the Beach Trail at the footbridge over Big Sur River.
Relaxing on Molera Beach
Nearest Visitor Center Big Sur Station, 831-667-2315, 10 miles north of the entrance of Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park and just south of Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park on Hwy. 1, is open daily 8 a.m.–6 p.m. Memorial Day–Labor Day; the rest of the year it’s open daily 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m.
Nearest Campgrounds Andrew Molera State Park has 24 walk-in campsites available in a large meadow near the Big Sur River on a first-come, first-served basis ($25 per site, register at the entrance kiosk, with a maximum of 4 people per site and no dogs allowed). The closest developed campground is Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park (200 sites, $35–$50, depending on site and time of year). Reservations are essential in the summer; visit reserveamerica.com or call 800-444-7275.
Additional Information www.parks.ca.gov
HIKE 6 Pine Valley
Highlights Sandstone cliffs, ponderosa pines, and an emerald swimming hole
Distance 12.0 miles round-trip
Total Elevation Gain/Loss 3,500'/3,500'
Hiking Time 6–8 hours
Recommended Maps A Guide to Ventana & Silver Peak Wilderness by the US Forest Service, Big Sur and Ventana Wilderness by Wilderness Press, USGS 7.5-min. Chews Ridge
Best Times September–May
Agency Ventana Wilderness, Los Padres National Forest
Difficulty
PONDEROSA PINES STAND sentinel above wildflower-strewn meadows in the heart of Ventana Wilderness. Cliffs and stones surround this broad valley, echoing stories of the Esselen people who once called this region home. A waterfall rushes out of sight nearby, pouring into a glittering pool. And on the way into peaceful Pine Valley, you’ll enjoy far-reaching views of the ridge-rippled landscape that defines the Santa Lucia Mountains.
Note that in 2008, the massive Basin Complex wildfire scorched the majority of Ventana Wilderness, including the majority of this hike. Much of central and lower Pine Valley was spared, however, including the area around Pine Falls—now more of an oasis than ever. As the land and vegetation continue to regenerate, encroaching brush may pose some challenges on this hike—check with the Forest Service for the latest trail conditions before you head out.
The Hike approaches the Ventana Wilderness from the east via rough and unpaved Tassajara Road. The route first follows Pine Ridge Trail from China Camp, rising and falling along an overgrown ridgeline punctuated by several excellent views. It then turns northwest at Church Creek Divide and slowly descends Carmel River Trail into the open terrain of Pine Valley. The route is ideal in spring and fall, when temperatures are moderate and storms infrequent. The winter months can be quite pleasant as well, though freezing temperatures and strong storms occur at times. The heat, flies, and mosquitoes of summer are best avoided. No water is available at the trailhead. Poison oak is plentiful—be watchful.
To Reach the Trailhead From points north, follow Hwy. 1 to Carmel and take Carmel Valley Rd. (County Rd. G16) east for 23 miles to Tassajara Rd. Turn right on Tassajara Rd., bear left in 1.3 miles at the fork with Cachagua Rd., and continue on Tassajara Rd. for another 10.7 miles to the China Camp entrance; the pavement ends 1.8 miles past the fork. Park at the large turnout across from the camp entrance. The trailhead is 100 feet farther south on the camp side of the road.
Ponderosa pines rise above the grasslands of Pine Valley.
From points south, take Hwy. 101 to Greenfield and exit on Rte. 101 Business, the town’s southernmost exit. Turn left on Elm Ave. (County Rd. G16) a half mile later and proceed 5.8 miles to Arroyo Seco Rd. (County Rd. G17). The two roads merge for 6.5 miles and then fork. Bear right and continue 17 miles on Carmel Valley Rd. to Tassajara Rd. Turn left and proceed as above.
Description From the marked trailhead (0.0/4,350'), Pine Ridge Trail gradually climbs 400 feet and then descends the same elevation through brush dominated by ceanothus and tan oak. After this scratchy welcome to the wilderness, you traverse steadily upward to emerge from the worst of the overgrown sections at the route’s high point (0.6/4,750'). Views look south over the Church Creek and Tassajara Creek drainages, west toward the Coast Ridge, and southeast toward 5,862-foot Junipero Serra, which rises above the unseen Salinas Valley. Cone Peak (Hike 3) perches atop the farthest visible ridge to the south, 17 miles away.
The route cruises near the ridgeline through golden grasslands, charred forest, and thick new growth. Oak woodlands and stalks of Our Lord’s candle, a large and easily distinguished yucca, punctuate the scenery as you next ascend and top a minor saddle before continuing upward to another, more prominent saddle. Views vanish briefly as the trail switchbacks southwest and then climbs north to the second highest point along the route (2.1/4,740'). From this point onward, it’s all downhill to Pine Valley.
The trail turns southwest on a steep grade, dropping 850 feet through open woodlands carpeted with spring wildflowers. A final series of switchbacks deposits you at Church Creek Divide and a four-way trail junction (3.6/3,650'). The divide forms a deep saddle between two west-trending ridges and sits atop the 29-mile-long Church Creek Fault, a splinter fault of the greater San Andreas Fault system. The grinding faults of the area pulverize adjacent rock, which then erodes away to form distinctively straight valleys. Here the Church Creek Fault has created linear Church Creek canyon southeast of the divide, and the upper Carmel River valley (including Pine Valley) to the northwest. The divide also separates the watersheds of the Carmel River, which has its headwaters in Pine Valley, and the Salinas River, which initially flows southwest before turning north, eventually entering the sea some 80 miles north of the Carmel River mouth.
From the divide, turn north and follow Carmel River Trail toward Pine Valley. The trail slowly descends, crossing over the usually dry headwaters of the Carmel River, and then eventually levels off. As the gradient eases, sandstone cliffs appear to your right, water trickles audibly off to your left, and ponderosa pines begin to rise from open meadows.
For thousands of years, Pine Valley was home to the Esselen