101 Hikes in Northern California. Matt Heid
fertile hunting, gathering, and living grounds. The Esselen may have used fire to clear underbrush and maintain the pine stands and broad meadow, where deer, rabbits, antelope, and even bears once commonly grazed. In the adjacent forest, doves, quails, and other game birds flocked beneath the abundant canopy of oaks, bays, pines, and madrones. Wild roses grow in dense thickets on the east edge of the valley, perhaps cultivated by the Esselen for straight, strong arrow shafts. Beneath the sandstone cliffs, women took harvested acorns from the surrounding oak woodlands and ground the nutritious meat into flour. Their mortar holes still pepper sandstone outcrops just downstream from the Pine Valley–Pine Ridge Trail junction.
Hidden Pine Falls
A large gate marks the official Pine Valley entrance (5.3/3,140') at a junction with the Pine Valley–Pine Ridge Trail and the route to Pine Falls. To make the trip to this waterfall oasis, be prepared for some hiking excitement—the 0.7-mile one-way journey follows a path that is narrow, overgrown, and washed out in a few precarious places. From the junction, turn left and cross the river. Head downstream a few yards and then recross the river past the first of three small unofficial campsites. The route now closely follows the river, crisscrossing it multiple times as it winds downstream through a lush riparian environment.
You eventually emerge at an overlook directly above 50-foot Pine Falls (6.0/2,700'). The descent to its base can be hazardous, as you must clamber across slick boulders. A conveniently placed rope may be available to help you negotiate the final 20 feet to the crystal clear pool. Enjoy a brisk plunge and then return the way you came.
Nearest Visitor Center King City Ranger Station, 831-385-5434, is located at 406 S. Mildred Ave. in King City. Take the Canal off-ramp from Hwy. 101, go east on Canal, right on Division, and left on Mildred. It’s open Monday–Friday 8 a.m.–4:30 p.m.
Backpacking Information: Campsites and water are abundant in Pine Valley. A valid campfire permit is required.
Nearest Campground China Camp (9 sites, free) is adjacent to the trailhead. No water is available.
Additional Information www.fs.usda.gov/lpnf, ventanawild.org
HIKE 7 High Peaks Trail
Highlights Monoliths of towering volcanic rock, prairie falcons, and California condors
Distance 5.3 miles
Total Elevation Gain/Loss 1,650'/1,650'
Hiking Time 3–4 hours
Recommended Map USGS 7.5-min. North Chalone Peak
Best Times October–May
Agency Pinnacles National Park
Difficulty
THE STORY OF THE PINNACLES began some 28 million years ago when the Pacific tectonic plate first made contact with North America near present-day Los Angeles, and pushed an active underwater volcanic ridge beneath the continent. Widespread geologic havoc followed, and the first strands of the San Andreas Fault began forming. Shortly after this collision, 23.5 million years ago, rising magma escaped onto the surface through one of the many newly formed fractures and created a large, short-lived stratovolcano 24 miles long and roughly 8,000 feet high. Straddling the young San Andreas Fault, the volcano was quickly ripped in two as lands west of the fault were pushed northwest. The western half of the volcano was then tilted by associated splinter faults, protecting it from erosion until it was once again exposed at the surface. It slowly weathered to form the spectacularly unique peaks of the Pinnacles, 195 miles away from its eroded-rock counterpart in Southern California.
While numerous volcanic rocks compose the Pinnacles, the two most common (and easily identifiable) are volcanic breccia, a mess of angular fragments welded together into the reddish rocks of the High Peaks, and flow-banded rhyolite, a fine-grained lava that preserves its original flow patterns. Several excellent sources of information on the local geology are available at the visitor center, including a guide to the Pinnacles Geological Trail, the first half of which is along this hike.
The Hike climbs from Bear Gulch Nature Center along the Condor Gulch and High Peaks Trails, winding through wild volcanic formations before dropping steeply back down to Bear Gulch Picnic Area. The best time to come is February. You have to time your visit to avoid winter storms, but the reward is early wildflowers, crystalline air, flowing streams, green hillsides, and, most of all, solitude. The air, the water, and the green all remain from March through May—supplemented by a greater explosion of wildflowers—but the solitude vanishes, especially on weekends. An average of 400,000 people a year visit this small park, and most of them come during this time. In the summer months temperatures are sizzling and average almost 100°F during the day—don’t bother. The fall is mild but brown and dry. Water is available at the trailhead.
To Reach the Trailhead Take Hwy. 25 South from Hollister for 35 miles to the posted turnoff for the Pinnacles on Hwy. 146. Approaching from the south, Hwy. 25 can be accessed from Hwy. 101 via Hwy. G13 at King City. Park in the nature center parking lot, 5 miles past the turnoff. The trailhead is across the road. While it is also possible to approach the Pinnacles (but not this hike) from the west through Soledad, there is no connection on Hwy. 146. There is an entrance fee of $10, which is valid for 7 days.
Description From the trailhead (0.0/1,650'), you begin climbing on the Condor Gulch Trail through large gray pines and deciduous blue oaks, quickly passing above a maintenance station. As you ascend, coast live oaks can be spotted in the riparian valley below. Toyon soon appears by the path, a shrub easily identified by its stiff, toothed, elliptical leaves and bright red berries, which first appear in December. At the first switchback, a rounded squat formation dubbed the Hippopotamus sits across the small gully. Looking like a stack of chips, Casino Rock is visible to the north. The trail then leads to an overlook where a small runnel of water gurgles down in season.
From the overlook, you leave the gulch behind and wrap around the ridge above you. Where the trail winds through open chaparral dominated by chamise, good views east of deeply furrowed San Benito Valley open up.
Views to the north appear as you intersect High Peaks Trail (1.7/2,290')—go left. This is a good place to start looking for California condors. Since 2003, the park has taken part in the California Condor Recovery Program. Several dozen juvenile condors have been released here in recent years and more than 60 currently live in the region. Look for these majestic—and enormous—endangered birds early in the morning and just after sunset. Also keep an eye out for prairie falcons. Every year from January through June, roughly a dozen pairs of these raptors nest in the cliffs of the Pinnacles and can often be seen swooping between the peaks. They are readily identified by their pointed wings, narrow tails, quick wingbeats, and distinctive cries.
Curving through massive boulders and outcrops, the trail then offers up views of the Balconies, a large, deeply sliced outcrop visible northwest. Reaching a junction with Tunnel Trail (2.3/2,480'), continue straight on High Peaks Trail to begin an exciting section where bolted iron railings provide handholds for steep stairways whose steps are mere scoops in the rock. Passage is tight beneath Condor Crags, and descending those scoops is challenging; you soon reach a junction on the opposite side (3.0/2,470') where an outhouse is conveniently situated.
The volcanic jags of Pinnacles National Park
Keeping left on High Peaks Trail, you begin the steep switchbacking descent to Bear Gulch. You pass the aptly named Anvil along a brief level section before continuing down past large manzanitas to the junction with Rim Trail (4.5/1,600').