Trekking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon
Stage 1 Port d’Andratx to Sant Elm
Stage 2 Sant Elm to Ses Fontanelles
Stage 3 Ses Fontanelles to Estellencs
Stage 4 Estellencs to Esporles
Stage 5 Esporles to Valldemossa
Stage 6 Valldemossa to Deià
Stage 7 Deià to Sóller
Stage 8 Sóller to Tossals Verds
Stage 9 Tossals Verds to Lluc
Stage 10 Lluc to Pollença and Puig de Maria
Alternative start A s’Arracó to Ses Fontanelles
Alternative start B es Capdellà to Estellencs
Alternative start C Calvià to Estellencs
Alternative finish D Sóller to Cala Tuent
Alternative finish E Tossals Verds to Alaró or Orient
Alternative finish F Lluc to Caimari via GR222
Appendix A Route summary table
Appendix B Glossary
Appendix C Public transport
Appendix D Accommodation
Appendix E Useful contacts
Cliffs rise above forested slopes on the descent from Coma d’en Vidal (Stage 3)
Rampant flowers near es Capdella, with Puig de Galatzó rising beyond
INTRODUCTION
Mallorca is the largest of the Balearic Islands, basking in sunny splendour in the Mediterranean between Spain and Algeria. It has been a favourite destination for sun-starved northern Europeans for many decades. While beach holidays remain popular, more and more visitors seek the quieter pleasures of rural Mallorca, especially taking opportunities to explore the island’s most rugged mountain range, the Serra de Tramuntana.
In the high mountains there is more shade among the evergreen oak and pines, with cooling breezes to temper the heat of the sun. Away from the bustling resorts the pace of life in the mountain villages is more sedate and relaxing. Almond trees burst into blossom, oranges ripen in the sun and vineyards yield heavy bunches of grapes. Kid goats bleat plaintively, often unseen among the undergrowth, while bongling bells alert shepherds to the location of their free-range sheep and cattle. Every so often, emerging from the forests, walkers discover the sun-scorched façades of palatial country mansions, wayside ermitas and little casetas. In a sense, the visitor who is prepared to walk can forget everything they’ve ever heard about Mallorca and start afresh by making new discoveries every day, around every corner.
As walking became more and more popular over the years and guidebooks proliferated in many languages, the island authorities began to purchase some extensive rural estates, protecting them from development and marking paths and tracks for walkers. It was only a matter of time before they turned their attention to the creation of a long-distance walking route.
The Camí des Correu runs through dense holm oak woodland (Stage 5)
Serra de Tramuntana
Serra de Tramuntana translates as ‘Mountains of the North’, and they form an incredibly rugged range stretching all the way along the northern flank of Mallorca. The Paratge Natural de la Serra de Tramuntana, or Nature Area of the Serra de Tramuntana, was designated in 2007, covering an area of approximately 625 square kilometres (240 square miles). Although the mountains are predominantly limestone, the coastline often features a complex mix of rock types. Pine forests and extensive holm oak woodlands abound, with cultivated areas featuring olive groves, citrus groves and nut groves. Terraced slopes near the towns and villages produce abundant crops, while bare, rocky mountainsides are colonised by tough plants that form dense maquis, or patchy garigue formations. These rugged mountains form the backdrop for trekking through Mallorca.
Around 90 per cent of the Serra de Tramuntana is private property, and many regular walkers can tell tales about access problems. On the other hand, every few years extensive mountain estates come onto the market and some of these have been purchased and opened to the public. Some of the most notable acquisitions and recreational areas, from west to east, include: Finca Galatzó, Sa Coma d’en Vidal, Son Fortuny, Planícia, Son Moragues, Cúber and Menut. There are plenty of places where walkers are welcome, or at least tolerated, and the provision of the long-distance GR221 is a splendid way to trek all the way through the Serra de Tramuntana from end to end.
GR221 – Ruta de Pedra en Sec
The GR221 is also known as the Ruta de Pedra en Sec, or the Drystone Route. It was created by the Consell de Mallorca, or more specifically the Department de Natura i Medi Ambient, with input from local councils. While the eastern and central parts are well-signposted and fully waymarked, there is still some work to be done on the western parts, as well as on some of the alternative routes. Some old paths high in the mountains have been completely rebuilt at considerable expense, and one very popular path is protected along with its landscape as a site of cultural interest. The main route measures around 140km (87 miles) and is split into ten daily stages in this guidebook. However, there are half a dozen major variant routes, allowing several alternative start and finish points.
Most of the mountainous, well-wooded Serra de Tramuntana is made of limestone, which has provided the raw material to build all kinds of structures from humble huts to splendid palaces and churches. The limestone readily breaks into blocks, and uses can be found even for broken chippings. It can be burnt to produce lime for mortar or whitewash. Place one lump of limestone carefully on top of another and all manner of drystone constructions are possible.
Trekking the GR221 involves walking on the bare limestone bedrock of Mallorca, or following old stone-paved paths through the mountains. Massive drystone buttresses, or marges, hold cultivation terraces in place on steep mountainsides. Stone channels, or canaletes, carry water to where it is needed. Strange stone structures encountered along the way include large limekilns and igloo-like bread ovens. Circular sitges, or charcoal burning platforms, often have the crude stone hut of a carboner, or charcoal burner, alongside. There are drystone walls, cairns and stone-lined snow-pits on the high mountains, all created from limestone blocks. In effect, the GR221 is a celebration of the outdoor life and backbreaking labour of the mountains of Mallorca, as well as being a scenic and interesting route.
The GR221 visits several attractive little