Trekking in Mallorca. Paddy Dillon
spring. The rainfall is greatest over the high mountains and least on the south coast. Snow is common on the mountain tops in winter but very rare at sea level, with falls there recorded in 1956, 1985 and 2005. When snow falls deeply on the mountain paths, they can be quite difficult to follow. Take nothing for granted with the weather, and obtain a forecast whenever possible.
The route could be in the Torrent de la Vall d’en Marc after rain (Stage 10)
Accommodation
The main tourism website for Mallorca is www.infomallorca.net. Tourist information offices are located in all the main resorts, but not all of them operate through the winter. Staff at these offices usually speak English and can assist with information about accommodation, transport and visitor attractions. There is a tourist information office at the airport and others in Palma if assistance is needed before trekking. Other offices are found along the GR221 and are listed in Appendix E.
Accommodation along the GR221 varies widely. Hotels occur at intervals along the way, and refuges, or refugis, are also available. There is only one campsite, which is at Lluc, but many trekkers manage by wild-camping. Although it is possible to commute fairly easily to and from the GR221 from the city of Palma, don’t assume that it would be easy to do so from one of the main tourist resorts around the coast. The best way to appreciate the GR221 is to stay on the trail and stay at a different place along it each night.
All accommodation options are open for most of the year. Some hotels close in the winter. Refugis are often available throughout the year, but the only way to be certain is to contact them in advance with specific dates.
Hotels
Hotels of varying grades are available in every town along the GR221 and almost every village, but some places have far more hotels than others. (See Appendix D for a list.) In Valldemossa, lodgings tend to be quite expensive, but buses allow walkers to move off-route in search of better deals. Former monastic cells at Lluc provide unusual and comfortable accommodation for visitors and are remarkably good value. Bear in mind that all beds could be taken at peak holiday periods, but most of the popular online accommodation booking websites will reveal something, somewhere. Prices range from about €40 per person in a budget hotel to well above €100 in some places, with meals costing extra. Prices of meals vary in hotels, and it is often possible to forgo whatever is offered and eat at a nearby restaurant instead. Breakfast buffets are usually very good value.
Refugis
The Consell de Mallorca established a number of excellent refugis, generally by restoring old buildings and equipping them to a high standard. In terms of services and facilities, they are like very good hostels, with beds in dormitories. They are certainly grander than the average Alpine refuge and are extremely good value. Since being established, some of the refugis continue to be administered centrally by the Consell, while others are run independently. In a few places, privately-owned refugis have opened, and a couple of long-established pilgrim hostels, or hostatgerias, are also available.
The Refugi de Son Amer is surrounded by forested slopes (Alternative finish F)
Mallorcans were very quick to take advantage of such economic yet quality accommodation, so weekends tend to be particularly busy with family groups. Trekkers who want a quieter experience would be well advised to avoid holiday periods and weekends, and use the refugis on less busy weekdays wherever possible.
Booking beds in the Consell-administered refugis can be done online at www.conselldemallorca.net (select English and follow the links), but be sure to follow the instructions, pay a deposit and keep a note of the confirmation. At the privately owned refugis it is possible to phone in advance. Sometimes it is possible just turn up at refugis without booking and hope for the best, but have a plan in place in case they are full. Meals are available and can either be booked in advance or organised on arrival. Packed lunches may also be available. There will be ‘rules’ that need to be observed, so that everyone enjoys a pleasant stay. The provision of refugis along the GR221 is as follows:
La Trapa – construction has been stalled for some time
Ses Fontanelles – privately owned, near Km104 on the Ma-10
Sa Coma d’en Vidal – a Consell property for groups only
Son Trias – privately owned, at Esporles
Can Boi – a Consell property at Deià
Muleta – a Consell property near Port de Sóller
Tossals Verds – a remote Consell property
Castell d’Alaró – a pilgrim hostatgeria on Puig d’Alaró
Pont Romà – operated on behalf of the Consell at Pollença
Puig de Maria – a pilgrim hostatgeria above Pollença
Camping
There is only one campsite on the GR221, which is at Lluc. It is modern and replaces a site that was very run-down. Trying to use the campsite as a base for tackling the GR221 simply won’t work effectively. It is increasingly common to notice many trekkers carrying full backpacking gear along the trail. Evidently, they are quietly establishing unobtrusive wild camps along the way. If considering this approach, bear in mind that it is illegal, so you must be very discreet and leave no evidence of overnight stops. The level platforms of old sitges among dense holm oak woods are popular among wild campers!
Language
There are two official languages in Mallorca: Castilian Spanish and Catalan. Catalan is spoken from Andorra to València, as well as on the Balearic Islands. Mallorquí is a dialect of Catalan and includes words of French and Arabic origin. No-one expects visitors to learn Catalan, let alone Mallorquí, and any Spanish you learn will be readily understood. Many people in the main resorts and large hotels speak English, German and other languages, but this may not be the case in small villages and in the countryside.
Catalan in its written form may be understood by anyone with a knowledge of Spanish, but the spoken language is another matter. Between themselves, most islanders speak Mallorquí, so conversations on buses and in bars and shops may be incomprehensible to visitors. However, if you speak a little Spanish you will find that people are delighted and will help you all they can, and even more so if you attempt to converse in Catalan. It is well worth taking the trouble to learn a few words and phrases so as to be able to pass the time of day with local people.
Placenames
Most places in Mallorca had two names in the past, Spanish and Mallorquí. Since Mallorquí was given equal status with Spanish, almost all Spanish placenames have vanished from signposts and street signs. In fact, only in a few tourist resorts are there any Spanish signs to be seen, and Mallorquí may be the only language in evidence in rural areas.
Confusion is likely to arise if you use old maps and guidebooks, which generally show only Spanish placenames. Spanish IGN maps have mostly switched to Mallorquí placenames, and the popular Editorial Alpina maps use only Mallorquí placenames. As a rule, many placenames look similar, regardless of whether they are in Spanish or Mallorquí, but some hotels and businesses insist on using Spanish forms for their addresses. For visitors, this could be confusing if your hotel is listed as being in Puerto Sóller or Pollensa, but the only road signs you see are for Port de Sóller or Pollença!
See Appendix B for basic phrases and useful words in English, Spanish and Catalan, along with a topographical glossary for use when interpreting placenames on maps.
Money
The Euro is the currency of Mallorca. Large denomination Euro notes are difficult to use for small purchases, so avoid the €500 and €200 notes altogether, and