Walking in the Yorkshire Dales: South and West. Dennis Kelsall

      Fishing on the River Wharfe as it passes through Strid Wood (Walk 1)

      The additional areas increased the park’s size by almost a quarter to 2178 square kilometres (841 square miles) to make it the country’s third largest, with the Nidderdale AONB adding a further 600 square kilometres (233 square miles). Somewhat less than half of this is actively managed as agricultural land while the rest consists largely of open country and moorland. Historic land use, geography and climate mitigate against extensive areas of woodland and little more than three per cent is covered by trees, the largest single area being the coniferous plantations encircling the higher reaches of Langstrothdale. Because of the geology, extensive bodies of water are also notable by their absence and, in fact, only two natural lakes of significance occur in the whole of the Dales, Malham Tarn and Semer Water. However, the gritstone valleys in the south and east harbour a number of manmade reservoirs, built to sustain the industrial towns of West Yorkshire.

      The park’s resident population is below 24,000 – less than 30 people per square mile. But this figure is swelled by an estimated 9.5 million visitors each year, on average more than doubling the resident population. And while most people live in one of the three small towns lying wholly within its boundaries – Sedbergh, Hawes and Grassington – few of even the remotest dales are totally devoid of habitation. Picturesque villages and hamlets are scattered along the major valleys, with small steadings to be found everywhere, right up into the highest reaches. This all might seem like rather a lot of people, but wander away from the main centres, even on a bank holiday weekend, and you can spend a day on the tops with hardly a soul about.

      Almost all of today’s roads follow ancient lines of travel, as do many of the paths and tracks that lie away from the tarmac. There are few main roads, however, and the majority of the narrow lanes are relatively traffic free and a delight to walk, cycle or ride. In addition, there are in excess of 3200 kilometres (2080 miles) of designated footpaths, bridleways and tracks, which contour the dales, climb the intervening hills and criss-cross the open moors. And, following the implementation of the CROW Act in 2000, around 1087 square kilometres (about 420 square miles), including the majority of the upland area, is now designated open access land.

      Much of the countryside encompassed within the legislation is upland moor and heath and is identified on OS Explorer Maps by peach-coloured (open land) and light green (woodland) tints. Access points on the ground are usually identified by a circular brown and white symbol of a walking figure. Within these areas you have a right to wander (but not cycle), even where there is no path, but there are responsibilities too. These are generally common sense, such as following the Countryside Code (see www.openaccess.gov.uk) and being careful not to cause damage. Dogs are generally permitted too, but should be on a close lead near livestock and during the bird breeding season (1 March to 31 July). However, on some grouse moors, specifically those around Barden Moor and Barden Fell, dogs are not allowed at any time other than on designated public footpaths. Landowners are entitled to suspend or restrict access for short periods, for example during the grouse shooting season or while heather and gorse burning takes place. There may also be restrictions for conservation purposes. Such closures are notified in advance and should be respected, but do not affect any public rights of way that may run across the land.

PRACTICALITIES

      Although none of the routes described in this book is technically demanding, many venture onto upland moors where paths may be vague or non-existent and conditions can be very different from those experienced in the valleys. Conditions can rapidly deteriorate at any time of year, and inexperienced walkers should be aware that it is easy to become disorientated in mist. However, taking a few simple and common-sense precautions will help ensure you get the best out of the day.

Navigation and maps

      The mapping extracts (1:50,000) accompanying each walk are provided to indicate the general outline of the route and are not intended as a substitute for the map itself. The context of the wider area will not only add to the enjoyment of identifying neighbouring hills and other features, but is vital should you wander off course or need to find a quick way back. The area is covered by Ordnance Survey maps at both 1:25,000 and 1:50,000 scales, the larger scale showing a greater detail that is often invaluable. Learn how to read the map and use it on the ground with a compass. A GPS receiver can be a useful additional aid, but you should know how to use it, be aware of its limitations and ensure you have spare batteries. The key maps for the walks in this guide are: Explorer OL2 – Yorkshire Dales (Southern & Western areas); Explorer OL30 – Yorkshire Dales (Northern & Central areas).

Careful planning

      Plan your walk in advance, bearing in mind your party’s capabilities and the anticipated weather conditions for the day. The times given for each walk are based on Naismith’s Rule and are given merely as a guide. They make no allowance for stops along the way and in practice, your time may be significantly more, since it will depend upon your own level of fitness, ability to cope with the particular terrain and other factors such as weather.