Walking in the Yorkshire Dales: South and West. Dennis Kelsall
far boundary. Bearing left, the bridle path continues to Westy Bank Wood and descends pleasantly through the trees. Going out at the bottom, cross a small field to the nearer of two gates in the far corner. A well trodden line leads you on at the edge of grazing pastures, eventually emerging onto the main road opposite the former priory gatehouse. Follow the road through the low, narrow arch, leaving just beyond onto a drive towards the church and ruins of Bolton Priory.
BOLTON PRIORY
The monastery at Bolton was founded by Augustinian canons in 1154 as a priory, only acquiring its ‘abbey’ status as part of the PR accompanying the new railway in the 19th century. The small community had originally settled on the edge of the Embsay moors some 30 years earlier, but were grateful for the gift of a more sheltered location on the banks of the River Wharfe from Lady Alice de Romilles of Skipton Castle. A touching tale, immortalised in Wordsworth’s poem ‘The Boy of Egremont’, attributes her largesse to a desire to create a memorial to her son William, who lost his life trying to leap The Strid when out hunting, although his signature appears on the deed of gift – such is the stuff of legend!
However, the priory was never well-endowed and, beleaguered by intermittent poverty, sickness and the unwelcome attentions of Scottish raiders, failed to realise the prosperity and status enjoyed by some of the other Yorkshire monasteries such as Fountains and Rievaulx. By the time of the Dissolution, almost four centuries later, the West Tower still remained incomplete and, despite an attempt by the last prior, Richard Moone, to bribe Thomas Cromwell for a reprieve, the lands were seized by the Crown and sold off to the Cliffords, who were by then the rulers at Skipton Castle. To his lasting credit Moone did, however, manage to secure the 13th-century nave for the use of the parish, a status that it retains today.
Dedicated to St Mary and St Cuthbert, the church is noted for its fine medieval roof and stained glass, the latter added by Augustus Pugin as part of extensive renovations during the 19th century. Surrounded by the evocative ruins of the former priory, the east wall of which still rises majestically to its full height, it drew many of the Victorian romantics and both Turner and Landseer captured its haunting setting in paintings and sketches.
The ruins of Bolton Priory
Crossing the River Wharfe by the Friar’s Steps
Just before reaching the church, a path leaves to skirt the ruins on its way to meet the River Wharfe at the Friar’s Steps, once the only means of crossing the river. As you climb up the far bank towards Cat Crags, there are some splendid atmospheric views back through the trees. At a junction, keep left along a high path above the steep bank, ultimately coming out onto a lane at the foot of Pickles Gill. Cross the ford (or use the bridge just upstream if you don’t want to risk wet feet), but then abandon the lane just beyond for a path signed to Posforth Bridge. Returning to the riverbank, follow it up to a wooden bridge opposite the Pavilion Café. Cross there to continue upstream through Strid Wood, the fragmenting paths reuniting to lead to The Strid itself, a mile (1.6km) up the valley.
Suddenly forced into a narrow gap, barely two metres across, the river abruptly drops its innocuous appearance to become a thundering torrent at The Strid. Its very narrowness attracted the daring to leap across, earning it the name ‘strid’ or ‘stride’. But the stakes are high, because a slip means almost certain death in swirling pools up to nine metres deep. And when the Wharfe is really in spate, the fury of the deluge overspills the banks to sweep across the rocky platform. The rocks can often be slippery, so take care.
Ever since the Devonshires opened the woods to the public at the beginning of the 19th century, the spot has been a popular haunt, with a network of paths leading to striking viewpoints and vistas, laid out by a former vicar of Bolton Priory Church. Strid Wood is now a site of special scientific interest (SSSI) and contains native sessile oak, ash and beech as well as other trees. In spring, the ground bursts into colour with snowdrops, bluebells and wood anemones and over 60 different types of plant have been recorded. The wood is also rich in bird life with over 40 species breeding here, including nuthatches, tree creepers, dippers and wagtails.
Taking the lower of the two onward paths, carry on up the valley to enjoy some spectacular views into the ravine before rejoining the main trail. After some 800m, bear left at successive forks, following signs to Strid Shop and Car Park. The path climbs to a break in the trees that reveals a last dramatic view along the valley before returning you to the car park.
The legendary Strid
WALK 2
Barden Moor
| Start | Halton Moor (SE 038555) |
| Distance | 5.5 miles (8.9km) |
| Total Ascent | 250m (820ft) |
| Time | 2hr30 |
| Terrain | Good tracks throughout. Note that dogs are not allowed on the Barden Moor Access Area. |
| Maps | Explorer OL2 – Yorkshire Dales (Southern & Western areas) |
| Refreshments | None |
| Toilets | None |
| Parking | Roadside car park at start |
This walk offers a great opportunity to experience the wildness of the open moors without having to stray off the beaten track, perhaps its only drawback being an uphill finish.
BARDEN MOOR
From an abrupt ridge that curves round in a splayed horseshoe between Rylstone and Burnsall, Barden Moor falls as a vast, shallow fold towards the River Wharfe. Gathering sustenance from the bleak uplands, a lively beck once tumbled uninterrupted along its length, but the 19th-century expansion of the Yorkshire mill towns changed all that. The fact that they are founded on limestone saved most of the Dales valleys from exploitation as reservoir sites, but here the underlying stone is impermeable grit. Bradford Corporation built two reservoirs, the first opening in 1874 and the second, higher up the valley, just nine years later, a 22-mile (35km) aqueduct carrying the water to the town. Even in those days, municipal engineering was not simply a matter of utilitarian function and beside the upper dam the grand Gothic statement is the manager’s baronial hall.
A track leaves the lane behind the small car park, heading west and gently gaining height above the Lower Barden Reservoir. Ahead in the middle distance you can make out the grassy bank of the upper dam and on the skyline is Cracoe Fell, distinguished by its obelisk, clearly recognisable even from here. After a mile (1.6km), take the right branch at a fork, the onward track twisting round to give a view across the expanse of water to Barden Fell. A little further on, ignore a grass track that leaves on the right, shortly after which the grassed dam of the upper reservoir pops into view. Keep walking for another mile (1.6km), the gentle ascent then levelling to another junction above the higher lake at Brown Bank.
The Lower Barden Reservoir from the start of the walk
Despite the intrusions, the area has a splendid sense of remoteness and is a noted site for bird watchers. The reservoirs attract a multitude of water birds, in particular the black-headed gull for which this area is one of the largest breeding sites in the country. The moor is home to grouse and you’ll hear the croaky, laughing call as the birds stumble into the air on stubby wings for a short, faltering flight as you pass them. They feed on the carpet of heather, bilberry and crowberry that cloaks the hillside, periodically burnt off to ensure a steady regeneration of new growth.
To the right, a track winds easily down across the heather-covered hillside towards the Upper Barden Reservoir, reaching a junction by sheep pens at the southern end of the dam. Carry on towards the stark and lonely house at the far end. When the reservoir first opened, the various valves and sluices regulating the flow of water had to be operated by hand, requiring the keeper to live on site. Although today’s automated control