Walking in Pembrokeshire. Dennis Kelsall
COAST PATH
One of Pembrokeshire’s finest assets is the 180-mile (290km) long-distance path that traces its entire coastal fringe, and each year, heavily loaded walkers are to be seen embarking from or arriving at Amroth, its southern terminus. There is a plaque commemorating the official opening in 1970 by Wynford Vaughn Thomas at the eastern end of the promenade next to a bridge spanning a stream near the county boundary at Telpyin Point. Although the path can be accomplished in either direction, starting here offers an infinitely more satisfying experience in the gradual exchange of the softer scenery of Carmarthen Bay for the savage beauties that are characteristic of the northern coast.
The undulating hills behind the coast overlie abundant carboniferous coal deposits, the source of some of the best quality anthracite to be had in the country. Much folded, the layers of black gold rise close to the surface in places and have been scratched at since the earliest times. The coal was dug from simple ‘bell’ pits and drift mines and their collapsed vestiges can still be traced in the innumerable hollows concealed by the dense woodland cover of both Pleasant Valley and Colby Valley. But it was the advent of the industrial age that brought large-scale exploitation, and the sea offered an easy and economic means of transport to the enterprise, which few inland sources could match. Deep mining for the richest seams began in earnest and horse-drawn tramways, later upgraded with the development of the steam engine, were laid to carry the coal to ships waiting at nearby Saundersfoot’s harbour.
The route through Pleasant Valley follows the old tramway that ran to the coast and if you explore the Coast Path beyond Wiseman’s Bridge, you’ll pass through the tunnels that took the railway on beneath the cliffs. By the 19th century, however, the most productive reserves were becoming worked out and what remained proved increasingly difficult to extract because of faulting. Production declined in the face of competition from the South Wales valleys, although because of its high quality, some coal was still mined into the beginning of the 20th century.
Keep right at a fork by Tramway Cottage, then continue along the line of the tramway. The tramway transported coal and iron from Stepaside’s collieries and smelt hearths to ships waiting in Saundersfoot’s harbour. Keep to the main surfaced path, subsequently crossing the stream and eventually emerging onto a lane beside Heritage Park, a lodge development on the site of a former iron works.
The local shales also contained abundant iron ore deposits, and during the later part of the 19th century these sustained a burgeoning industry that produced a high-quality pig iron. The proximity of coal suitable for the smelting process and a ready means of transport made the industry highly profitable and supported an ironworks with two blast furnaces.
The Stepaside Iron Works, whose ruins stand beside the route as it leaves Pleasant Valley, opened in 1849, and the increased traffic to the harbour at Saundersfoot justified the replacement of the horse-drawn tramway carts by steam engines. Yet, despite its success, the enterprise was relatively short-lived, and little more than 30 years later the furnaces were left to grow cold. The impressive remains of some of the buildings and ore hoppers can still be seen behind the holiday site car park.
The Stepaside Iron Works
Cross the lane into Mill House Caravan Park opposite, and follow its drive past the toilets and shower block. Where it then bends, walk forward between a couple of caravans to a stile at their rear. Bear left up a hillside pasture and leave through a gap in the top wall and across a drive onto a narrow lane. Follow it to the right.
Having crested a low hill, the lane descends to a sharp bend by cottages. Bear left along a drive, but where that subsequently splits by a fingerpost, look over to the right for a stile. The way rises to the left on a grass trod across the shrubby flanks of Staggers Hill. Ignoring cross paths, keep going to find a stile at the top and continue at the left of a pasture to emerge onto a hedged track. Follow it right to a bend, there leaving through a kissing gate onto a tree-lined path that leads to Cwmrath Farm. Join its access track out to a lane.
Go briefly right, before abandoning it for a bridleway on the left that leads down to another farm. Where the track turns into the yard, keep ahead along a narrower waymarked path which drops into a thickly wooded valley. Ignoring paths off left, wind down to a junction of tracks at the bottom. Walk ahead past a small building and over a stream to come out onto a lane.
To the right (after passing the private access to Colby Lodge), turn in at the entrance of Colby Woodland Gardens. Beyond the tea room and ticket office, the track meanders pleasantly along the delightful valley. Eventually reaching cottages, it emerges onto a lane that leads back down to the car park in Amroth.
Colby walled garden
WEALTHY LANDOWNER’S RETREAT
During the 18th and 19th centuries, the coal and iron industries brought considerable employment to the area. They also made a lot of money for the owners, one of whom, John Colby, bought land in the valley behind Amroth in 1787. However, it was not only the mineral wealth that attracted him, for he was also impressed by the natural loveliness of the valley itself, and in the early 19th century began the construction of a mansion, Colby Lodge. Half a century later a Lancashire man, Samuel Kay, bought the estate, and with the help of his plant-collecting brother created a magnificent exotic woodland on the valley slopes around the big house, together with an enchanting walled garden. The meadows, woodland and walled garden were subsequently given to the National Trust and are open to the public.
WALK 2
Manorbier
| Start/finish | Manorbier (SS 063 977) |
| Distance | 2½ miles (4km) |
| Total Ascent | 580ft (175m) |
| Time | 1¼hr |
| Terrain | Coastal path and field and farm tracks |
| Maps | Explorer OL36 South Pembrokeshire |
| Refreshments | Beach Break Tearooms and Castle Inn in Manorbier |
| Toilets | Beside car park at Manorbier |
| Public transport | Bus service to Manorbier |
| Parking | Car park by beach below castle (charge) |
This walk explores the coast to the east of Manorbier, where there is a splendid little dolmen and some striking examples of cliff erosion, before returning to the village along a quiet inland valley.
For Giraldus Cambrensis, Manorbier was ‘the pleasantest spot in Wales’. Although he might be accused of bias since he was born in the castle, Giraldus had travelled widely throughout the country and across Europe as far as Rome, and must have seen a great many other places against which to set a comparison. His sentiments are not unfounded, and the view across the valley from the elegant church of St James to his one-time home still holds great attraction.
The castle has an imposing location, gazing out over Manorbier’s sandy bay, and was founded at the beginning of the 12th century by the Norman knight Odo de Barri. The original fortification would have been of wood protected by earthen ramparts and it was his son, William, who began the stone fortress. Built from the local hard limestone it has survived the passing centuries well and boasts many fine features, including state apartments, a baronial hall and a brutally powerful gatehouse.
Walk through the car park away from the beach to the far right corner and there double back right on a track that